FireKraka wrote: Wed May 29, 2019 11:15 am
Thanks for the concern guys but I don't believe it is 600W really have a look at the size of the cables coming out of it
It appears to have 2 small computer fans in it and not sure of the heater elements.
Because its chinese i tested it as soon as I got it by just holding the cales against a spare battery terminals and it seemed to go ok however me being a grease monkey and not an electricians a hole may mean I am totally wrong.
I know one of the photos says 24v but the one I received is 12v as I stipulated when ordering.
Regards
Neil
Hi Neil,
Looks like a neat little unit.
It'd be a good idea to check the current draw with fans and heater element at full bore with an ammeter if you've got one, just to make sure. Lots of stuff from China is fine to use, but my experience is that you can't always rely on the data provided - as you may have found with the "600W" claim. To be sure to be sure, and to minimise the chance of a fire melting that beaut' paint job, I'd recommend sticking an inline fuse with it, and knowing the amps it pulls will give you an idea what size fuse to use - unless it came with that info already.
Also, do the wires on your 12v unit look thicker than the 24v unit in the photo? You can get away with thinner wires/smaller fuse on a 24v system.
John that is a great idea, I will see if I can check the amps draw and I was intending to fit an inline fuse.
Do I put the meter on the wires at the battery or at the switch?
It is a nice small unit and as you say it will get me past rego, the wires on the 12volt unit (mine) don't appear to be any larger than the ones on the 24volt unit in the photo.
Clay it would be good to be able to switch it to the floor but I don't think I'm that smart
Neil
Member of WA FB/EK Car Club
Frankenstein EK V6 Ute
The Reverend FB Station Wagon Project
1950's Commer Light Truck (2.5 Ton)
When it has been regod you can move them to do the floor as I believe the quarter vents are the best demisters anyway that's what I am going to do.
BILLY BLACKARROW
MY Father always said do the hard part first --because when you are OVER IT you only have the easy part left to do THINGS I HAVE TRIED TO LIVE BY
If you want demister and vent, run the first 12" or so of the air duct system in PVC plumbing pipe (should be OK for temp as most PVCs start melting at 100ºC). Tee it off for the floor vents, and use valves like these to turn the air on/off the floor: https://www.ebay.com.au/p/HR-Products-B ... 2580735771
Paint the pipe satin black and it will dissappear.
Cheers,
Harv (Bunnings plumbing section stalker)
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
FireKraka wrote:
Do I put the meter on the wires at the battery or at the switch?
As per the drawing below mate for measuring amps. If you’re doing it out of the car on the bench, connect the black heater wire to the negative battery terminal, and the positive ammeter lead to the positive battery terminal. The other ammeter lead goes to the red heater wire.
Let us know how you go. If it’s putting out anywhere near the 600w, you may need to beef up the wiring to the unit.
gpi wrote: Wed May 29, 2019 10:50 am
His v6 alternator is 85a factory
Yes, but that only leaves a maximum of 35 A available at revs. At idle it is much lower. If the engine is at idle there probably wouldn't be enough left to run a stock ignition system & keep the motor going.
If the car is modified with say an electric fuel pump & radiator fans 85A won't be enough & if it is fuel injected it won't run at all.
but I don't believe it is 600W really have a look at the size of the cables coming out of it
