Project 2.

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ardiesse
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Re: Project 2.

Post by ardiesse »

Yep, that's right. The mounting arrangement is much simplified in HR.

Bolt - top washer - top rubber - tubular spacer - bottom rubber - crossmember - lockwasher - nut.

Rob
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Brett027
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Re: Project 2.

Post by Brett027 »

Thanks Rob. Much appreciated.
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ehsv6
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Re: Project 2.

Post by ehsv6 »

Upper wishbone/shim bolts should have nuts on outside, reverse of what you have. Its usual to get longer bolts to get a little more negative camber, nuts should be self locking.
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Brett027
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Re: Project 2.

Post by Brett027 »

Ok, thanks. That makes things a bit easier🙂.
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Brett027
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Re: Project 2.

Post by Brett027 »

ardiesse wrote: Thu May 05, 2022 5:01 pm Brett

HR front crossmember spacer tube: 1/2" ID, 0.630" OD (close enough to 5/8"), 2-5/8" long
Rob, the spacer tubes at 2 5/8" long are for HR subframe presumably and not EK subframe? If I don't put originals back these shorter spacers will just be rattling around wont they?
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ardiesse
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Re: Project 2.

Post by ardiesse »

Brett,

I used the HR spacer tubes when I did a front disc conversion on the ex-family EK. If anything, the HR spacer tubes were a little too long, but that may have been because I re-used old rubbers. Cheapskate uni student.

I figured that the subframe member was the same depth in HR and EK: EHs used the king-pin front suspension, but with the HR-like bolts and rubbers; GM-H would have carried the mounting kit over to the HD, then the ball-joint front suspension would be a bolt-in replacement.

Rob
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Brett027
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Re: Project 2.

Post by Brett027 »

Thanks Rob. I'll sort it out tomorrow. It's hard to get motivated at 10°.
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Errol62
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Re: Project 2.

Post by Errol62 »

I did this swap in 1986 and then again a year ago. I thought I remembered exactly what I did the first time but hey time flies, and it is the same now. Any way here is the dubious benefit of my addled memory:

You need to obtain full take up between top cup and bottom rectangular washer. Owing to deletion of the bottom rubber, the FBs bolts were on the margin of being too long to enable this, by about half a thread.

Dummy up subframe mounting without the top cup installed or bolts tightened. Insert spacer so it is sitting on bottom washer or the end of your finger will do. Look down on the top rubber that the cup sits on. The spacer should allow a percentage of compression, say 1/4”.

My 2c as they say. Good luck with it mate. You prolly already worked this out.


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Brett027
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Re: Project 2.

Post by Brett027 »

Thanks Clay. The spacer thing has thrown me a bit but I was thinking along your lines too. I will get it sorted.

On another matter, this colour is pretty good. Blues come out in shade, silver in light. Pity its not on a more perfect body.
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Errol62
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Re: Project 2.

Post by Errol62 »

You don’t want it too precious or it won’t get used.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
getting my FB ute on the road
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Errol62
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Re: Project 2.

Post by Errol62 »

Any way, looks the goods from here….


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getting my FB ute on the road
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In the Shed
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Re: Project 2.

Post by In the Shed »

Yep and from here too 👍
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Brett027
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Re: Project 2.

Post by Brett027 »

Should've gone to Specsavers😀
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EK283
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Re: Project 2.

Post by EK283 »

Brett,

All you have to do is take 3 years to rub and recoat every panel then you can throw your glasses in the bin !!!

Its a great hobby and as long as you are happy that's all that matters. The colour is very soothing I must admit, job well done.


Greg
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Brett027
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Re: Project 2.

Post by Brett027 »

Thanks Greg. Very happy with paint, best I've ever done. Not so happy with panel smoothness, but considering all things it's not too bad.
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