Grecian White/Apache Red 225

[EK283]

The rubber boots on ball joints and tie rod end are the ones that frustrate me these days,

Put them in and 3 months later split and leaking grease, simple fix removing all the ball joints for replacement boots NOT !

Greg

[Harv]

With all the fancy stuff on the market, it still surprises me that you can't buy a CV/balljoint boot with a closeable seam to allow it to be installed (wrapped around and sealed) with the joint intact.

Cheers,
Harv

[Errol62]

More likely to end up with non serviceable ball joints than something sensible like that Harv. I think Elles FB has no grease nipples in the uppers.

[Craig Allardyce]

With all the fancy stuff on the market, it still surprises me that you can't buy a CV/balljoint boot with a closeable seam to allow it to be installed (wrapped around and sealed) with the joint intact.

Cheers,
Harv

You mean these Andrew?

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[Craig Allardyce]

More knackered rubber bits. I'm wondering if detergent is doing the damage??????

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[Harv]

You mean these Andrew?

Ooooh.... I like those . I learn something new every day.

Cheers,
Harv

[funkyscooter]

More knackered rubber bits. I'm wondering if detergent is doing the damage??????


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I know AI isn't everyones cup of tea and that a little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing etc. but I asked Gemini what causes rubber to degrade in a sunless environment.

1 - Ozone. - Causes chemical chain scission, the result is surface "crazing" or small, deep cracks perpendicular to stress.
2 - Heat - Causes thermal oxidation, the result is hardening, cracking, loss of flexibility.
3 - Fuels and oil - Causes solvent swelling/Ozone inhibitor extraction from rubber, the result is swelling, becoming "gummy," or excessive hardening after evaporation.

Didn't delve deeper but the cracking looks like ozone ( lack of ozone inhibitor ), so either #3 (if not actual chemical oil, maybe oil from skin?) is allowing ozone to break it down, or its cheap rubber with a lack of the ozone inhibitor.

Pure speculation but it would be leaning towards cheap rubber if it is happening in a range of situations where #2 of #3 might not be a factor.

[Craig Allardyce]

It's good to be back on the road. Did about 100kms with no major issues. Engine is performing well with some on road fine tuning needed.
Best part was getting home and having a look underneath. Totally dry!
My next challenge is to try and rebuild my vacuum washer pump. Sourcing a new diaphragm is going to an issue. In the hunt for this part I have come across a vacuum wiper motor paddle parts kit. It suits a XK Falcon, but I think it's a good chance it will suit the FB. I don't need to replace mine as they are working really well, but it would be nice to have a spare.

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[EK283]

It is so satisfying to drive a machine that you have tinkered with.

Good to hear no oil leaks.

Greg

[Blacky]

about bloody time mate just in time for Stanthorpe

[Craig Allardyce]

Jesus Blacky, it's only been a year and a half.
No Nationals for a while mate, but I could be swayed for another WA run. I'd have to dust off the teardop for this one. I can only hope the stinking economy turns around by then.

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[Craig Allardyce]

Fix one thing, cause another problem.
My recent test runs after running the new improved head gasket have shown a great improvement with lower running temps to the extent that I'm struggling to see 65 degrees at the thermostat outlet (70 degree thermostat - tested ok). It's amazing to see how improving coolant flow across the back of the block improves the cooling system performance overall. The engineers came up with a great solution to an age old problem.
Now in my efforts to improve the heater performance, I tried running a 82 degree thermostat but have come up against a problem of wild swings in temperature as thermostat is opening and closing, which peaks at well over 100 degrees, until the system stabilises. This takes a fair amount of driving to achieve. What I believe is happening is that the lack of coolant flow around the base of the thermostat when closed is causing the problem. By the time the coolant temp transfers to that area via convection, it's way too late at that temperature opening point of the thermostat, and the rest of the engine behind the flow has already risen to a higher point. Once the thermostat finally opens the engine cops a gut full of way colder water and the thermostat shuts, and the cycle starts again. The problem is that the grey doesn't have a thermostat by pass system like the red. The lower running temp of the 70 degree factory spec thermostat seems to mask the problem as it keeps it below the 100 degree mark during the fluctuations.
Anyway, I've changed the set up to a bypass arrangement. The red motor ports in the block are 10mm (yes - metric). I've used 3/8 barbed fittings with a port size of roughly 7mm. My road test after saw a outlet temp now stable at 75 degrees, running an 82 degree thermostat. I expect summer temps to be higher. Coolant temp swings are gone now. Happy days.
I now have to convert my other engines, hence my wanted add for specific lower thermostat housings.

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[Errol62]

Nice fix Craig


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[Errol62]

No need to fit the splash trays then, cooling wise.


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[Craig Allardyce]

No need to fit the splash trays then, cooling wise.


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They will be going back in, just haven't got to reworking them yet. To be honest, I don't think they would make any difference, other than keeping things under the bonnet a bit cleaner.