fbekholden.com

Hi all
Sorry about the extended absence but ive had a little age related issue that has reminded me imm no longer 18 even if my mind has a valid argument
Ill stop the engine rebuild at this time and go back to Vallery after all thats what this thread is suposed to be about
shees all good and today i got the engine going for the first time
ran like a &*#@ until i put the vacume plug back in the inlet manifold
Vallery is alive and well after probably 20 years resting
BITCH i wish i could rest for that long
When i puled the donk out and seperated the auto to my dismay the tranny was siesed
i striped it down and it had been towed for a long distance and the pump was siesed
so i striped the pan off my spair tranny and found the oil like jelly
so i striped this hydro down too as tassie is a long way and when the auto stopes so do you
to my dismay the further i went the better the tranny was so after a full tear down and re assemble with a few s/h bits and some home made gaskets i put the engine and tranny back in
today after the barage of customers headed my evil stares i managed to get a kick out of her
apart from a new mufler the exhaust is origional but may need a bandage to get through rusty rego on the 27th as the tail pipe is a bit sus
lots of air in the tranny so dont know till i get it up on th hoist and brakes would be nice so ill se if i can get at the brakes over the weekend
i had lots of problems with the lights as she had a set of 100 / 90 halogen globes trying their best to burn out the headlight switch and the dipper so after tossing these out and replacing the 2 switches and repairing the butcherd wiring she can see so can i
the horn was a great deal of fun as my colection of 6 or so renderd 3 operative but the best was a broken horn that emitted a screeching HOOOOnjeeejjDDE
will spend the weekend on the brakes and rear w/brgs then see where we are at
still cant load pics so ill have to get the misses to take them with my phone and put them up for you
double cheers
the still shiny platinum man

Just thought of this
when you adjust the ride height be it front or rear rember
TO
ADJUST YOUR HEADLIGHTS
drive up to a wall about 300 mm away and using tape mark the rough centre of the beem
reverse back watching the beam centres
at about 3 metres re adjust the centre of the beam so as the right ...

Plastigauge is a product that you can buy from moast auto ouytlets and if thay dont have it thay should be able to get it
its a thin piece of plastacine that comes in various diamiters the dia is specific to the clearance being mesured
its cheep compared to an engine rebuild so buy 1 sise up and 1 sise down to your expected clearances
it used to come in 5 sises from
0.000,1" to 0.015"
thiese pieces of plasticine come with a gauge on the packaging that shows you how much the plastacine has squased as you torque the cap down

when youve got a spinning engine
remove the first main cap and apply a 20 mm long strip of this magic product and refit the cap
DONT TURN THE ENGINE OVER
just tighten the cap to the required torque and then drink beer
also praying to varuious daitys also helps
then remove the cap and using the packaging that the plastagauge came in and checking how mutch the previously round piece of plastacine has squased will tell you how mutch clearance you have
all being good you can return to the beer
note this stufff sticks to the crank and journal like camilla sticks to charlie
but like these 2 it must be removed as it will cause troubles later on
so use piece of sharpned plastic turned into a blade and carefully scrape this stuff of bothe the bearing and the shaft then knowing the clearances are all good reassemble the cap and after torquing it up add a dob of paint to the bolt to tell you not to &*#@ with it again
if the clearances are too big you need to address this isue as an oil psi drop will result and iff thay are a bit to close but it still spinns ok and your not gunna race it alls good but rember
ittl come back to bite you so dont lie to yourself that it will be all good
cause IT WONT
REPEAT THIS PROCES for all bearings and also repeat BEER for all bearings being tested

CHECK CHECK AND when your all hapy check again as its easier to check something in the morning than remove the engine in the evening when your all happy paint the nuts/bolts with a dob of your favorite colour just so you KNOW NOT TO &*#@ WITH IT AGAIN

going home now my taxi is here
CHEERS
THE SHINING PLATINUM MAN
thanks BLACKY

SIMMO65
imm pleased to be of help but using my wright ups as gospel may prove fatal imm prety good with this stuf but please ring me 0267725290 before completing an engine job using this blurbe i usualy enjoy a beer at nite
and at day
CHEERS
and apolagies to annyone reading my emotional break down ...

oil pumps are a great topic of discusion
an oil pump putting out 2000 lb pressure is gunna take a lot of driving
an oil pump putting out 10 lb psi aint gona cost mutch
an engine at idle dont need ANNY psi OIL pressure
ITS UNDER NO not anny thing nothing zerro LOAD
load is what causes heat and stress ...

All this garbage on engine rebuilding is purely meant as advice not the bible but hopefully ive converted a few
once the crank spins free the same proces can be used for the rods i ilke to fit the pin and assemble them into the block without pistons and repeat the rope test each rod must spin free ...

A good quack is worth there weight in EK upolstery
I spent 3 hours at various docks on friday and came out as clean as my wallet but SO far imm feeling fine and all is well
but you gota rember not to take fluid tablets at nite whilst drinking

The free wheeling crank I MEAN FREE with the harmonic pulley fitted and given a good spin it should rotate 2 to 3 turns on its own
COSWORTH ENGINERING said that a 1 pound weight atached to a string wound around the front pully with a starting light push WILL rotate the crank continuiousley til the weight touches the ground with all rotating components atached
OTHERWISE YOU WILL LOSE 1 BHP AT 6750 RPM FOR EVERY onz OVER this REQUIRED TO ACOMPLISH THIS ROTATION EXERCISE

THATS with the rods and cam all torqued up but NO PISTONS
It is easy if you are carefull with the bearing clearances and i gues COSWORTH dont use rope seals
IF your engine is all good you can remove the crank again and cover it with glad wrap
1 by 1 wipe each bearing shell with paint thinners to remove the silver paint check before you wipe for marks in the paint {you can use gold paint if you like }
Annyone waiting for the magic on rope rear seals will JUST HAVE TO &*#@ WAIT

now the POOR bastrds with the tight crank IF like me nothing fases you it just costs more and your are prepared to have a GO YOU CAN FIX this
NO REAR MAIN SEAL
front bearing and rear bearing oil it up and loose caps spin it over
ok
tighten front cap 20 lb/foot
spin it over
locks up
drink beer
loosen off and tighten rear
spin it over
locks up drink more beer
1 of them must result in a free crank
USE the BEARING BLUE that youve all had on hand for just this ocasion
remove the crank and SPARINGLY aply a smear of bearing blue to the bearings in place and in the cap to all the way around the shell
refit the crank and rotate a couple of turns no matter how tight and torque to 1/2 the end requirement

dismantlethe crank DONT REMOVE THE SHELLS from the caps or block and check the shells for LACK of blue dye the place weare the crank is rubbing is where the blue will be wiped away and where thers lots of blue thers lots of clearance
iff your still keen and prepared to throw away a set of 010 mains get out a realy sharp pocket knife and comence to scrape carefully the spots where the bearing blue has told you its tight
GO SLOW AND CAREFULL its gona take a while but the result will be there even in the SMOOTHE idle in the finished engine Use a scraping action like shaving your face

NEVER remove the bearing shell whilst scraping And strong hands holding a sharp knife will result in a better outcome and rember YOU know EXACTLY what you doing
stop regular and re assemble the caps and crank and rotate with more blue if youve gone this far keep going and dont worry about a litle nick or grove unles the PLASTIGAUGE {another class} tells you to drink more beer while the new set of bearings arives
This proces is repeated till all the bearings are in and torqued down to man specs the only other vaiation is that of THRUST washers/bearings
these dont usualy cause a problem un less your crank guy or bearing supliere were having a drug break whilst at work
if these are tight simply face the side of the bearing or washer with 80 wet and dry on a piece of modern houshold glass {there is lotts of differance}
but rember go easy your only after enough clearance to make it turn over free
one last thing if when you remove the caps or the crank a bearing keeps droping out of the cap or the block its trying to remind you about NIP the bearing is larger in outside dia than the tunel
IFF your bearings ar for the right engine and have no NIP OR CRUSH then you have a block thats been tunnel bored OVERSISE
I need to explain something here
just say the outside diamiter of the bearing is 2 inches and the inside diamiter of the bearing is 1 inch The tunel in the block needs to be around 3.5 4.5 though smaller to hold the bearings tight and provide good thermal transfer this meens that thay need to be PUSHED into the cap not just sat in there
And the shaft running inside must be 1.5/2.5 smaller to provide oil clearance
Ive built plenty of engines using old bearings by just corecting the NIP /CRUSH and CLEARANCE
happy weekend class and as always
CHEERS
THE platinum man

Used to rally &*#@ escorts back in the teeny years and we used the inverted leaf to lower the rear ride height for traction controle issues with the secorts on dirt used to rotate the inverted leaf so as to strengthen the front half of the spring to controle spring wind up under harsh acceleration and harsh bump rebound travel

I think ekstevo went a bit to far idd have probably cut 6 inches off the end of that leaf to relieve the stress hees imposing on the rest of the spring pack
either way spring inversion or resettin is a MUTCH SAFER alternative to lowwering blocks
fitting alowering blocks changes the pivot point of the rear axel because the diff is 6 /8/10// inches away from the centre bolt holding it all in place its gonna flap around like a pair of 38 dd s at the basketball
also if your lowering a car rember the included angle of drive on the rear uni its important to its lonjevity
back to the basket ball and my teeny years

cheers the platinunm man

Woke up this morning around 4 am Coughing Sneezing and OPPPs best go to the dunny so ive spent the day at the Quack X rars and Blood tests $60 bucks at the chemists and now home to watch some old warr movies Feeling lots better
Now the tunnel in the block and cap needs to be realy clean I like to ...

As ive said before Ive been colecting bits for VALLERY for a while now I striped and rebuilt the botom end of this engine around 2 years ago .full acid bath new cam bearings, welded up the water damage in no 3 boore and rebored 40 though surface grind the deck and repainted the red lead inside the ...

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Hows this for a casting date
A =January
26= 26th day
2=1962
=AUSTRALIA DAY 1962
yeah
The origional donk has been replaced by an EJ unit but this engine has broken crank SO when i went looking for bits to repair her I came across this engine ITS an EK unit and because of the ...

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Finaly had some help with resising the pictures. This is the drivers flore after cutting out the rust
The bits sitting on top of a rares flore.I just couldnt cut it up so i decided to make one myself now that ive finaly got the gear
Shees got the ...

accomadation is booked at the Tamar Resort and will be traveling with MILDRED strata blue snowcrest sedan traveling from Armidale NSW to Melbourne the week before then across for a lap of Tazzie and home 3 weeks on the road just CRUSING IN MY EK
Hope all goes as to plan
see ya all in tazzie

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Hi all this is Vallery
shees a S/A build EK wagon that was assembled into a complete car in Perth she came to NSW in the 90,s AS a shipping container for a local lady returning home
The car was then stored in a farm shed for a long time and when the last of the family ...

HI PAULY
SERVICE NSW (RTA/RMS) or whatever there calling them selves this week

pree
1963 vehicles in UN MODIFIED condition (i would call 7' wheels a modification) do not require the fitment of safety restraints (BUT NO one UNDER 12 YEARS of age CAN BE UNRESTRAINED IN A MOTOR VEHICLE)
SO you have ...