Vallery goes to Tasmania

[the platinum man]

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Hi all this is Vallery
shees a S/A build EK wagon that was assembled into a complete car in Perth she came to NSW in the 90,s AS a shipping container for a local lady returning home
The car was then stored in a farm shed for a long time and when the last of the family passed away and the farm sold VALLERY was moved to the local tip. Where she was rescued by one of my customers
I purchased her from this gentleman and has been in my storage since then (5 years)
NOW
when i heard that next years NATS were in tazzi i just had to get her out so that I can bee there in style
VALLERY ??
Shees Valleta green With OPAL roof
And golden and lenora tan upolstery
Shees cummin as she is ORIGIONAL UNRESTORED
keep watching ill update regular
THE PLATINUM MAN

[Blacky]

cool

[parisian62]

Beaut story especially the bit about being saved from the tip See you in Tassie...

[the platinum man]

accomadation is booked at the Tamar Resort and will be traveling with MILDRED strata blue snowcrest sedan traveling from Armidale NSW to Melbourne the week before then across for a lap of Tazzie and home 3 weeks on the road just CRUSING IN MY EK
Hope all goes as to plan
see ya all in tazzie

[pauly]

Nice,
see you down there

[the platinum man]

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Finaly had some help with resising the pictures. This is the drivers flore after cutting out the rust
The bits sitting on top of a rares flore.I just couldnt cut it up so i decided to make one myself now that ive finaly got the gear
Shees got the same rust in the other side front so now ill have to make a left one
Cheers
The Platinum Man

[WayneXG95]

[the platinum man]

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Hows this for a casting date
A =January
26= 26th day
2=1962
=AUSTRALIA DAY 1962
yeah
The origional donk has been replaced by an EJ unit but this engine has broken crank SO when i went looking for bits to repair her I came across this engine ITS an EK unit and because of the western australia assembly on the car.(I) cant tell when she was finalised as a complete car I have no idea what date codes to look for but im happy with this one
AUSTRALIA DAY 1962
I still had 5 months to cook My mum was at her most butifull and the old mans smile was just starting to fade
CHEERS
THE Platinum Man

[the rocket]

nice

[the platinum man]

As ive said before Ive been colecting bits for VALLERY for a while now I striped and rebuilt the botom end of this engine around 2 years ago .full acid bath new cam bearings, welded up the water damage in no 3 boore and rebored 40 though surface grind the deck and repainted the red lead inside the block
I actualy did my trade as an engine reconditioner so i think i have a good idea when it comes to engine rebuilds so this is what i did during VALLERYS open heart surgery
ITS NOT a definitave guide but hopefully helpfull enlightning and possibly contriversial IM OPEN TO CRITICISM
I repainted the red lead primer inside the block because it was ther from the factory and THAY must have had a reason to do it otherwise thay wouldnt have wasted the money . Also i believe it may help seal the pores in the cast iron and just cause it looks great
I fitted new cam bearings and check that the cam turns nice and free and that the lubrication holes al line up ok then refit the cam with bearing blue and recheck for anny signs of tight spots
all good
then its the crank I had the crank reground 10 though under all round and new bearings supplied Now just cause new bearing come in a new box and look great its always a good idea to actualy look at the numbers stamped on the back of the bearing doo thay all say 010 under as ive had them mixed up before
Bearings have 2 propertys that are important to there longevity
1 NIP the bearing is actualy too large in its radius to fit
2 CRUSH the ends of the bearing ar too long and protude above the cap
enginers decided that by making these features as the caps are torqued up the bearing shells would be forced tightly into contact around the tunel and be held in firmly in place,this is important as good shell contact helps heat to be pased from bearing to block
TIN/LEAD/ZINC {TRY METAL] bearings cry enough at around 110 degrease c. so getting rid of heat is important to Mr BIG END AND Mrs MAIN and anny other slipper bearin inside the motor
This is why competition engines use COPPER/LEAD as the coppper has a higher melting point and higer maluability {the ability to absorb an impact}
The lead layer is ther to absorb an help imbed any forien partivcles
Anny how maybee thats enough for tonight ill continue my TAFE course tomorow provided i still have students willing to listn
and ill put up pictures too
cheers
THE platinum man

[Trev]

Interesting reading.

Sent from my D5303 using Tapatalk

[parisian62]

Yep this TAFE student is happy to keep listening and reading...keep going...

[Errol62]

Appreciate the info platinum man


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[the platinum man]

Woke up this morning around 4 am Coughing Sneezing and OPPPs best go to the dunny so ive spent the day at the Quack X rars and Blood tests $60 bucks at the chemists and now home to watch some old warr movies Feeling lots better
Now the tunnel in the block and cap needs to be realy clean I like to use scotch brite and kero ,turps or petrol this will leave a clean finish I then use a NEW CHEEP sharpening stone on the parting faces of the cap and block While your at it face the sump gasket face The top of the block fuel pump face and the front of the block The sharpening stone can be used to cut down the raised aria around threads that have been overtightend Youl see what i mean when you try it
Get a selection of taper or medium taps the right thread and use a cordles drill with the clutch set medium and run it through all the threads in the block and head this will help heaps later on because you wont have junk in the thread holes that may cause you to cross thread or brake a bolt off also youl find the broken bolt that was waiting to be painfull later on I use a texter to mark each thread as i do it that way you wont miss anny
The welch plugs have been all removed and the oil gallery plugs too(if you can get them out}Use a STEEL shank screw driver and a blade that fits snug and give it a sharp clout then use a shifter on the screw driver to help rotate the screw plug
Use compresed air and an air pencil inside the water pasages and this will help losen the rust inside
.001" of rust has a thermal equivelent of 1 inch of cast iron so get it clean
I use my spray gun cleaning brushes to pull through the oil gallerys with a bit of thinners to remove the oil varnish
now its time to clean the block use a laundry powder and luke warm water to scrub the block,a round dunny brush is good for the boors and a normal flat brush for everywhere else
Use gloves as the laundry powder may be sl;ightly costic and hose it down with cold water
Some folks like to use HOT water,pressure washers ect and this is ok but you have to cool the block down as your finishing off otherwise all the shiny surfaces will go rusty realy quick
Dry the block off with compresed air Inside the oil gallereys inside all the threads and the boors whipe the shiny surfaces down with oil or wd40 and wipe clean with a clean lint free cloth
Use paper towl in th boors and rotate your hand just like the hone and dont stop cleaning till the paper comes out clean
Now the engine is clean and dry and coated in oil/ect you can begin assembly

Sort out the main bearings into block and cap shells the shells with holes for the oil flow will be the ones for the block and the others the ones for the caps
Wash the bearings with paint thinner and when dry give the inside of the shell a LIGHT coat of gall silver spray paint
fit the bearings into the block and caps Tang end first and gently ease the shell into place taking care not to broach metal from the outside as you push the shell home if thers a sharp edge left from machining gently file it off smooth
give all the bearings a good coat of oil and lift the crank into place a little more oil and rotate the crank it should turn verry nice and free if it dose you can put the first cap on and tighten the cap down with the cordles drill and the clutch set medium to lowish. Use oil on the threads of the bolta and under the head of the bolt
1 by 1 and use oil and turn it over each time,the crank should spin like a top nice and free
you can tension the caps down 1 at a time in stages checking that the crank still spins FREE
All going to plan the crank spins over Real easy
Remove all the caps and lift out the crank ke epeverything in order and check all the shells for tight spots{the silver gall paint will be marked where anny tightnes is occouring but since your crank spins free as a bird you can move on to bearing clearance
if as you tightend say no 3 cap down the thing locks up youve got a problem Stop imediatley and dismantle the crank out of the block
this is where the silver gall paint will show you the tight spots
Say for instance thye paint shows that 1 side of the shell is rubbing on both the cap and block Try reassembling the thing without this bearing in the engine at all
Iff the thing is all good and spins tike a breze without this shell youve just located your problem
iff say for instance the tight spots are on 1 side id say the block has been hot and this tunel ha moved or maybee thers a crack in the block Time for a thorough inspection if you cant find annything you can relieve the bearing by scraping but more checks need to be done first
If for instance the tight spots are 1 on each side check that the cap aint on backwards
Ive done it before. and dont tighten annything down unles its spinning free as
ill ad some picks to go with this blurb tomorow if i feel good enough to sneak over to work as thats where all the pics are
Cheers class
and thanks for the get well cards
The tarnished platinum man

[the platinum man]

A good quack is worth there weight in EK upolstery
I spent 3 hours at various docks on friday and came out as clean as my wallet but SO far imm feeling fine and all is well
but you gota rember not to take fluid tablets at nite whilst drinking

The free wheeling crank I MEAN FREE with the harmonic pulley fitted and given a good spin it should rotate 2 to 3 turns on its own
COSWORTH ENGINERING said that a 1 pound weight atached to a string wound around the front pully with a starting light push WILL rotate the crank continuiousley til the weight touches the ground with all rotating components atached
OTHERWISE YOU WILL LOSE 1 BHP AT 6750 RPM FOR EVERY onz OVER this REQUIRED TO ACOMPLISH THIS ROTATION EXERCISE

THATS with the rods and cam all torqued up but NO PISTONS
It is easy if you are carefull with the bearing clearances and i gues COSWORTH dont use rope seals
IF your engine is all good you can remove the crank again and cover it with glad wrap
1 by 1 wipe each bearing shell with paint thinners to remove the silver paint check before you wipe for marks in the paint {you can use gold paint if you like }
Annyone waiting for the magic on rope rear seals will JUST HAVE TO &*#@ WAIT

now the POOR bastrds with the tight crank IF like me nothing fases you it just costs more and your are prepared to have a GO YOU CAN FIX this
NO REAR MAIN SEAL
front bearing and rear bearing oil it up and loose caps spin it over
ok
tighten front cap 20 lb/foot
spin it over
locks up
drink beer
loosen off and tighten rear
spin it over
locks up drink more beer
1 of them must result in a free crank
USE the BEARING BLUE that youve all had on hand for just this ocasion
remove the crank and SPARINGLY aply a smear of bearing blue to the bearings in place and in the cap to all the way around the shell
refit the crank and rotate a couple of turns no matter how tight and torque to 1/2 the end requirement

dismantlethe crank DONT REMOVE THE SHELLS from the caps or block and check the shells for LACK of blue dye the place weare the crank is rubbing is where the blue will be wiped away and where thers lots of blue thers lots of clearance
iff your still keen and prepared to throw away a set of 010 mains get out a realy sharp pocket knife and comence to scrape carefully the spots where the bearing blue has told you its tight
GO SLOW AND CAREFULL its gona take a while but the result will be there even in the SMOOTHE idle in the finished engine Use a scraping action like shaving your face

NEVER remove the bearing shell whilst scraping And strong hands holding a sharp knife will result in a better outcome and rember YOU know EXACTLY what you doing
stop regular and re assemble the caps and crank and rotate with more blue if youve gone this far keep going and dont worry about a litle nick or grove unles the PLASTIGAUGE {another class} tells you to drink more beer while the new set of bearings arives
This proces is repeated till all the bearings are in and torqued down to man specs the only other vaiation is that of THRUST washers/bearings
these dont usualy cause a problem un less your crank guy or bearing supliere were having a drug break whilst at work
if these are tight simply face the side of the bearing or washer with 80 wet and dry on a piece of modern houshold glass {there is lotts of differance}
but rember go easy your only after enough clearance to make it turn over free
one last thing if when you remove the caps or the crank a bearing keeps droping out of the cap or the block its trying to remind you about NIP the bearing is larger in outside dia than the tunel
IFF your bearings ar for the right engine and have no NIP OR CRUSH then you have a block thats been tunnel bored OVERSISE
I need to explain something here
just say the outside diamiter of the bearing is 2 inches and the inside diamiter of the bearing is 1 inch The tunel in the block needs to be around 3.5 4.5 though smaller to hold the bearings tight and provide good thermal transfer this meens that thay need to be PUSHED into the cap not just sat in there
And the shaft running inside must be 1.5/2.5 smaller to provide oil clearance
Ive built plenty of engines using old bearings by just corecting the NIP /CRUSH and CLEARANCE
happy weekend class and as always
CHEERS
THE platinum man