If it is right it makes you wonder what other "Trade Secrets" go on in the dealerships.
Newman
Leaky steering box
Leaky steering box
Have been told to replace the gear oil in my steering box with Grease and substitute the filler plug with a grease nipple to stop it leaking. This is advice from a retired mechanic who worked in the local holden dealership for thirty plus years, does this sound right??
If it is right it makes you wonder what other "Trade Secrets" go on in the dealerships.
Newman
If it is right it makes you wonder what other "Trade Secrets" go on in the dealerships.
Newman
Ok - may be able to throw up a little light on this one......
I have now "done" two seals on my steering box - the first one became brittle many years ago and I took this advice.... packed it with grease.....
Be warned, if you use the wrong stuff - you can adversely affect your steering box.....
I finally got around to replacing the seal (pitman arm) and was quite shocked at just how easy this was to do......
I searched for the correct steering box lubricant for quite some time when I did this and was unable to find any...... until
Years later, whilst looking for compressor oil..... I enquired about steering box lubricant..... Penrite stock it....
be back in a minute - it's in the shed.... I go get the number....
Sorry, can't find a number on it anywhere - it will be in the Penrite reciept.... somewhere tucked away in a plethora of reciepts/literature I have.....
But....
It's a 500 ml bottle
Penrite
Steering Box Lube
"a semi fluid extremem pressure grease for non-rack&pinion steering boxes fitted to veteran & vintage automobiles"
that's what's written on the front label.....
black bottle, red label & black writing....
If I can find the number - I'll add it to this thread....
frats,
Rosco
I have now "done" two seals on my steering box - the first one became brittle many years ago and I took this advice.... packed it with grease.....
Be warned, if you use the wrong stuff - you can adversely affect your steering box.....
I finally got around to replacing the seal (pitman arm) and was quite shocked at just how easy this was to do......
I searched for the correct steering box lubricant for quite some time when I did this and was unable to find any...... until
Years later, whilst looking for compressor oil..... I enquired about steering box lubricant..... Penrite stock it....
be back in a minute - it's in the shed.... I go get the number....
Sorry, can't find a number on it anywhere - it will be in the Penrite reciept.... somewhere tucked away in a plethora of reciepts/literature I have.....
But....
It's a 500 ml bottle
Penrite
Steering Box Lube
"a semi fluid extremem pressure grease for non-rack&pinion steering boxes fitted to veteran & vintage automobiles"
that's what's written on the front label.....
black bottle, red label & black writing....
If I can find the number - I'll add it to this thread....
frats,
Rosco
Grease is a lubricant, but my opinion on its own, it is a better initial assembling lubricant rather than a long term lubricant in a steering box as I feel that it isn't "slushy" enough to make its way into all areas of the box simply by pumping it in.
In the workshop we used to make a "slurry" up of 50% gearbox oil and 50% Molybdenum Disulphide grease ( try saying that after a few beers
) which is the same grease commonly used for CV joint packing.Grey, filthy grease, and hard to get out of the pores of your skin but works well.
Then we would pump it into the steering box with a huge syringe from the local vet that is used for injecting medicine into bulls bums.
You could also buy a special grade gearbox/diff oil in 250 grade viscosity ( or higher ) which is a thickness like warm honey.It will make its way into the needed areas especially after a long run when the steering box is warmish from underbonnet heat.
I replaced the seal in my steering box about 18 months ago and just used straight 90 grade gear oil.No leaks so far from a new seal and using 90 gear oil.
I would have made up the Moly/Gearbox oil slurry or used 250 gear oil if I'd had the time to do it when I fitted the steering box back then.
I have the part number here somewhere for the aftermarket steering box seal that fits perfectly and from memory was about $7 from the local bearing place.
Let me know if you want the part number and I'll see if I can find it.
In the workshop we used to make a "slurry" up of 50% gearbox oil and 50% Molybdenum Disulphide grease ( try saying that after a few beers
) which is the same grease commonly used for CV joint packing.Grey, filthy grease, and hard to get out of the pores of your skin but works well.Then we would pump it into the steering box with a huge syringe from the local vet that is used for injecting medicine into bulls bums.
You could also buy a special grade gearbox/diff oil in 250 grade viscosity ( or higher ) which is a thickness like warm honey.It will make its way into the needed areas especially after a long run when the steering box is warmish from underbonnet heat.
I replaced the seal in my steering box about 18 months ago and just used straight 90 grade gear oil.No leaks so far from a new seal and using 90 gear oil.
I would have made up the Moly/Gearbox oil slurry or used 250 gear oil if I'd had the time to do it when I fitted the steering box back then.
I have the part number here somewhere for the aftermarket steering box seal that fits perfectly and from memory was about $7 from the local bearing place.
Let me know if you want the part number and I'll see if I can find it.
I can't think what to write here so this will do.
Leaky steering box
I guess the best option will be to replace the seal, I thought I'd have to buy a full kit at $100 plus. I didn't realise it could be repaired so easily, so is it just a matter of removing the pitman arm and can it be done while the box is in the car??
Please pass on the part number of the seal,the reason I was looking at the grease option I thought it would be a problem job. I guess I should have asked here first ,thanks for all the good info.
Newman
Please pass on the part number of the seal,the reason I was looking at the grease option I thought it would be a problem job. I guess I should have asked here first ,thanks for all the good info.
Newman
The steering arm can be hard to remove as they are on a tapered spline.
Copious applications days before with WD40 can assist with some reasonable good knocks with a hammer to help loosen things up ( don't hit the thread on the shaft or the nut will be tight to remove completely..
Make sure you mark the arm and shaft with a cold chisel or similar BEFORE you remove it and don't move the steering wheel or steering linkages AFTER you remove the arm because if you don't aline the splines as they were disassembled you will have steering lock to lock problems and the wheel won't be centred to straight ahead.
The correct removal method is with a puller attached.Occasionally even a puller doesn't seem to work and heat can help both with and without a puller.
If you have access to oxy acetylene torch it can be heated ( the heat expands the arm metal material and loosens its grip on the spline ) and then knocked off from within the engine bay with a length of pipe or similar and an FBH ( ferking big hammer ).
Some people faint if you mention heat and steering/suspension components but the heat removal method was (and probably still is ) accepted workshop practice if other methods failed. All mechanics did it.
Apply heat to the arm only.The old seal ,if it still exists will melt, but that doesn't matter as you are replacing it.
Clean up the seal recess and refit new seal etc.
I'll see if I can find the part number for the steering box seal for you.
Copious applications days before with WD40 can assist with some reasonable good knocks with a hammer to help loosen things up ( don't hit the thread on the shaft or the nut will be tight to remove completely..
Make sure you mark the arm and shaft with a cold chisel or similar BEFORE you remove it and don't move the steering wheel or steering linkages AFTER you remove the arm because if you don't aline the splines as they were disassembled you will have steering lock to lock problems and the wheel won't be centred to straight ahead.
The correct removal method is with a puller attached.Occasionally even a puller doesn't seem to work and heat can help both with and without a puller.
If you have access to oxy acetylene torch it can be heated ( the heat expands the arm metal material and loosens its grip on the spline ) and then knocked off from within the engine bay with a length of pipe or similar and an FBH ( ferking big hammer ).
Some people faint if you mention heat and steering/suspension components but the heat removal method was (and probably still is ) accepted workshop practice if other methods failed. All mechanics did it.
Apply heat to the arm only.The old seal ,if it still exists will melt, but that doesn't matter as you are replacing it.
Clean up the seal recess and refit new seal etc.
I'll see if I can find the part number for the steering box seal for you.
I can't think what to write here so this will do.
Leaky steering box
I have access to a puller as well as use of a two post hoist. Can I use this type of hoist? as all the weight will be off the front end and the suspension will be hanging without any weight on it. (just in reference to not moving anything once the steering arm is removed)
If you can find the seal part number it would be a great help so I'll be able to take one out,one in in one operation.
Thanks for all the help
If you can find the seal part number it would be a great help so I'll be able to take one out,one in in one operation.
Thanks for all the help
Not yet Blacky, the misses went through my bulging wallet a while back and cleaned out some of my business cards and stuff ( including "excess" money and the info on the steering box seals ) and put 'em somewhere .
Will interrogate her further tonight
.
In the meantime I have a couple of columns out of cars here at home so will run the verniers across the shaft and housing and go to bearing place tomorrow and find the part number for the oil seal again for ya.
Stay tuned.........
) and put 'em somewhere .Will interrogate her further tonight
.In the meantime I have a couple of columns out of cars here at home so will run the verniers across the shaft and housing and go to bearing place tomorrow and find the part number for the oil seal again for ya.
Stay tuned.........
I can't think what to write here so this will do.
Pitman arm seal
I got a seal for the pitman arm from the local hydraulic shop, Part #TC12031 if thats a help.
I also followed up and ordered the Penrite lube as suggested by Rosco,its good stuff but the local Repco agent stung me $25.00 for a 500ml cartridge
I also followed up and ordered the Penrite lube as suggested by Rosco,its good stuff but the local Repco agent stung me $25.00 for a 500ml cartridge
Hi again Newman,
my lube came in a bottle ..... I have concerns that you may be quoted an inappropriate product...... looking for receipt.... brb....
Here 'tis...
Date - 9 May 2006
Penrite Oil
88 Lewis Road
Wantirna South 3152
Telephone 1300 736 748
Fax 1800 736 748
email penrite@penriteoil.com
Web www.penriteoil.com
Product number VF SBL 0005
Product name Steering Box 500 GM
Product price $8.69 inc GST
Hope this helps, newman
frats,
Rosco
my lube came in a bottle ..... I have concerns that you may be quoted an inappropriate product...... looking for receipt.... brb....
Here 'tis...
Date - 9 May 2006
Penrite Oil
88 Lewis Road
Wantirna South 3152
Telephone 1300 736 748
Fax 1800 736 748
email penrite@penriteoil.com
Web www.penriteoil.com
Product number VF SBL 0005
Product name Steering Box 500 GM
Product price $8.69 inc GST
Hope this helps, newman
frats,
Rosco
Repco Ripoff
Rosco,
I,ll save the contact details for future reference but looks like Repco ripped me again.
I,ll save the contact details for future reference but looks like Repco ripped me again.