pin hole rust repairing
pin hole rust repairing
Just wondering what people have used to fill small rust holes
besides welding (I dont really want to make a bigger hole) and bog
more refering to floor pans and such where looks arnt an issue
besides welding (I dont really want to make a bigger hole) and bog
more refering to floor pans and such where looks arnt an issue
- ekdave1962
- Posts: 413
- Joined: Tue Oct 30, 2007 8:06 pm
- State: NOT ENTERED
- Location: Geelong Vic
It's cruel, but a pin hole showing may already actually be a lot bigger.
Short term (Months) stick some bog in it.
Long term. (More than a couple of months) Get rid of ALL the rust and weld in some new metal of fiberglass the area is still small and NOT structural.
Rust will only continue to get bigger if not removed completely

Short term (Months) stick some bog in it.
Long term. (More than a couple of months) Get rid of ALL the rust and weld in some new metal of fiberglass the area is still small and NOT structural.
Rust will only continue to get bigger if not removed completely

IT's LIKE WATCHING DRUNK MONKEYS TRYING TO HUMP A FOOTBALL.
theres about 3 holes not big surface has been stripped and hit with a rust converter ready for protective coating
Im thinking of drilling out the holes and maybe rubber plugs as the rest of the floor is fine its not structural and I dont think i really need to replace the whole section just yet still a few years left in it
Im thinking of drilling out the holes and maybe rubber plugs as the rest of the floor is fine its not structural and I dont think i really need to replace the whole section just yet still a few years left in it
if the floor pan is still strong and it is only a pin hole you shouldnt have any probs filling it with mig, but i think you will find that if there is a pin hole the floor is pretty thin in which case your always best of replacing, it doesnt have to be a whole new pan you can jus use a bit of scrap metal or anything obviously depending on the size, in the end a new pan is only around $70 anyways
always a good day for cars
I'm with Trev - I don't know how your "treated" rust will go with welding - I believe you 'll find it "blows" it away if you use too much power..... I did with some in a vehicle I tried to "glue" back into one piece...... I had trouble with introducing the "treatment" into the weld pool..... it didn't "stick" very well at low amperage and vapourised when i turned up the machine........
My opinion would be to get at the pans whilst you have access to them - if they are dodgy in the usual places - you're going to have to do this sometime.....
If it's not on the road - as in "project"..... I'd be getting this sorted now.....
If it is on the road (and this is Winter) .... and you intend to "treat" only - I would make absolutely sure the surface is clean and DRY (zero humidity) before filling.
Once you have filled (if not welded) perhaps protect this area now and wait until a bit warmer weather before protecting the entire area and it gets a good "curing" before next winter...... please tell me you aren't going to use ..... and the forum is just waiting for my "magic" word......
bitumen deadener!
And - if you do weld in new pans - make absolutely sure you do not "double skin" by leaving covering parts of the existing ones in situ - this will be a very good place for crud to build up and you'll get "another shot" at welding pans in before too long........
My method - cut leaving an overlapping "purchase" for the weld - grind away excess...... and protect.....
An excellent thread to peek at this is "Old Timer"......
frats,
Rosco
My opinion would be to get at the pans whilst you have access to them - if they are dodgy in the usual places - you're going to have to do this sometime.....
If it's not on the road - as in "project"..... I'd be getting this sorted now.....
If it is on the road (and this is Winter) .... and you intend to "treat" only - I would make absolutely sure the surface is clean and DRY (zero humidity) before filling.
Once you have filled (if not welded) perhaps protect this area now and wait until a bit warmer weather before protecting the entire area and it gets a good "curing" before next winter...... please tell me you aren't going to use ..... and the forum is just waiting for my "magic" word......
bitumen deadener!
And - if you do weld in new pans - make absolutely sure you do not "double skin" by leaving covering parts of the existing ones in situ - this will be a very good place for crud to build up and you'll get "another shot" at welding pans in before too long........
My method - cut leaving an overlapping "purchase" for the weld - grind away excess...... and protect.....
An excellent thread to peek at this is "Old Timer"......
frats,
Rosco
easy fix
scrubs, if you want an easy fix to tide you over for a couple of years, you can get different fillers instead of being plastic based there are fibreglass and metal shaving type fillers or "bog" as referred to. treat with rust converter, fill holes with one of these types of filler and paint with bitumen or Galmet type of paint. this is an easy enough fix for anyone to do.
Building an EK Special Sedan 304 T700, Rodtech F/end with disc's front & rear, and driving an EK Special Sedan Grey with Trimatic and the rest stock
well...
I ended up migin it a few square plates and no more speed holes
but...
the protective coating that I used I got from my local paint shop along with the rust converter. I told them what I wanted to do and thats what they recomended
Its pabco hydroseal and it says that its a bituminous, rust inhibiting, waterproofing, protective coating. I applyed it straigtht over the trade haus rust converter.
and thats all covered with hair underlay that the local carpet place gave me and new black carpet
I ended up migin it a few square plates and no more speed holes
but...
the protective coating that I used I got from my local paint shop along with the rust converter. I told them what I wanted to do and thats what they recomended
and thats all covered with hair underlay that the local carpet place gave me and new black carpet
- rustysdungers
- Posts: 439
- Joined: Sun May 17, 2009 7:32 pm
- State: NOT ENTERED
floor rust
I just did an eh for someone who wanted to keep orginal floors so i had to mig up all the holes shit of a job but looked good when finshed from under neath guy was wrapped 
I could be wrong, but I think you can only buy the 4 sections, though I'm sure the front section you can buy would cover the bit you're talking about.
Depending on the size of the hole, and where it is, you can have that section cut out and a plate welded in.
I stripped out my interior a few weeks ago to see what state the floor was in. It was pretyy good, but as I was sanding it back for painting, I found a pin head sized hole in the back left section, which soon turned into the size of a 5 cent piece.
I'll fix it properly when the time comes, but for now I used some of that Selleys Knead It stuff.
http://www.selleys.com.au/Selleys-Autof ... fault.aspx
I also gave the floor a few coats of Galmet Cold Galvanising paint
http://www.nrrbs.com.au/paintgalmet.htm
Depending on the size of the hole, and where it is, you can have that section cut out and a plate welded in.
I stripped out my interior a few weeks ago to see what state the floor was in. It was pretyy good, but as I was sanding it back for painting, I found a pin head sized hole in the back left section, which soon turned into the size of a 5 cent piece.
I'll fix it properly when the time comes, but for now I used some of that Selleys Knead It stuff.
http://www.selleys.com.au/Selleys-Autof ... fault.aspx
I also gave the floor a few coats of Galmet Cold Galvanising paint
http://www.nrrbs.com.au/paintgalmet.htm
