Currently running Bosch generator in my FB that I'm hopeing to get ready for Yamba.
With 60/55 watt QH headlights and associated running lights as well as engine ignition draw I guess there's not much charging power left to run some spotlights( with relay) is there??..... even 2 x 55 watt spotlights would be near limit I'd imagine.
I'll be going alternator after Yamba but haven't got the time or the alternator at present to do so. Am booked in for rego check next week with still a few things to do so don't want to stuff around too much ATM.
Generator to Yamba with or without spotlights ,Yes/No??( although I probably already know what the answer is ).
Interested in what others think and what other Genny runners are using and how it goes.
Hi Terry,
from memory, my Bosch produced around 18 amps - via the regulator - I was of the opinion both were specified as 18 ~ 20 amps (going for the book)
Yes 18 - 20 for both.
The big thing to consider - and I am very strong on this, is that power from the lighting switch was designed for bulbs or sealed beams (L,H drive) at :
(high beam/low beam)
bulbs : Bosch 45/40 watts, Lucas 42/36 watts
sealed beam : 50/40 watts.
The blue wire from the lighting switch to the dip-switch is the nemesis - I cannot stress enough the importance to either replace this wire with a heavier gauge or (preferred) use your lighting switch to turn on a separately fed relay for headlamps.
Protection at the lighting switch (as opposed to the fuse block) originally was intended for : headlamps, tail-lamps, parking lamps, number plate lamps and gauge illumination.
The lighting switch bi-metal circuit interupter specifications are:
closed continuous at 22 amps and (more importantly) began to open at 30 amps load from between 30 and 250 seconds.........................
My opinion for the lower 60/55 QH lamps is that you will not over-stress the circuit - but an additional 55 watts per side is tempting fate.......I understand you will supply these with a relay - excellent approach.
I'm pretty confident your generator won't keep up with all that "on line" - I'm guessing 230 watts just in headlamps and spots, not to mention the other little bits and pieces we use as well to run the car (surprisingly the coil does not draw much current (2.75 amps - plus or minus depending on what coil you are running).
When you fit the alternator Terry, I would like to believe you will also fit two relays just for main headlamps - one for each beam - there is a dual fused relay unit available - which affords lighting of some form should a short in one of the beam circuits blow a fuse................ frightening.
The original system was cleverly designed to "flutter" the lamps rather than kill them .............. purpose was to safely bring the vehicle to a stand with some lighting...............
In the early days of fitting a headlamp relay in lieu - there were many crashes when a short developed and blew the fuse to the relay supply.............guess you can appreciate that....?
Alternator is so easy, two wires - one to the battery and one to the Gen light................ don't forget to run an earth wire from the battery to the body................ your regulator currently does part of this - it's the black wire from the generator to the regulator and is "earthed" under one of the regulator screws.
The other earth to the body is through the braided fuel line from the fuel pump back to the sub-frame...................
hope some of this helps you make an informed decision......
Thanks Rosco, you've pretty well confirmed what I thought.Will put up with the 60/55 QH lights till after Yamba then go the alternator path/relays and heavier wiring and up the QH bulbs to 100/80 or thereabouts.
Remember reading in one of my workshop manuals that the Bosch generator is rated at 240 watts which is about what you mentioned.
Yeah probably will Theo as it'll be one less job for me to do on it when it gets back ( if it get's me there that is )...... gotta get it passed for rego yet.
).