want to do the one peice front door glass thing, i know malcom has done it and by the looks of his pics it's only where the bottom of the vent window goes on the door that needs a filler panel
this is where i have a couple of questions 1. from here you just use i think it's called bailey channel as per normal of corse with the added extra bits?
2. i think oldnek also has them as malcom is using elec windows do you have to modify the window regulators or can you just use standard mechanisms?
i'de like elec windows but that depends on money and what i can find
thanks
one peice door glass
bailey channel
Hi RB,
mine are stock but....
The Bailey channel runs around the window aperture........ it comes in a fairly long length - you may wish to call Rare's or whoever and see if it's going to be long enough - it has to run from the window frame inside the door - both front and back.
Oops - just read what I wrote - it is joined at the rear upper corner...... don't know for a van or ute..........
The other problem may be the "belt strips" they have four metal dowels in them which "clip" into each side of the window opening - I would expect Malcolm joined two to get the extra length - I don't know what additional holes he put in to hold them - I think you can appreciate the window will try to dislodge them as it goes up and down..........
just my thoughts.....
frats,
Rosco
mine are stock but....
The Bailey channel runs around the window aperture........ it comes in a fairly long length - you may wish to call Rare's or whoever and see if it's going to be long enough - it has to run from the window frame inside the door - both front and back.
Oops - just read what I wrote - it is joined at the rear upper corner...... don't know for a van or ute..........
The other problem may be the "belt strips" they have four metal dowels in them which "clip" into each side of the window opening - I would expect Malcolm joined two to get the extra length - I don't know what additional holes he put in to hold them - I think you can appreciate the window will try to dislodge them as it goes up and down..........
just my thoughts.....
frats,
Rosco
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mrs ratbox
thanks rosco, in a van bailey channel is one peice along top and down rear of door (curved rear corner)
lenght of product shouldn't be a problem, i used to get it from spectrum rubber (previously jacksons old auto rubber) and could get it in up to i think 4 foot lengths with clips separate or sickaflex it in
lenght of product shouldn't be a problem, i used to get it from spectrum rubber (previously jacksons old auto rubber) and could get it in up to i think 4 foot lengths with clips separate or sickaflex it in
Hey Mick,
I did mine not a problem with rubbers. Around 2.5 meters per door Full length of HQ bailey rubber and the belt strips you can buy in any length.
The only problem I had found is the new toughened glass is 1 mm wider than standard and you can't fit the inner stainless belt strip in the inside. Just went to Bunnings and bought a roll of the adhesive grey felt door weather strip.
My mods were as Malcoms pics, with the door additions. I had actually took photos of my whole build but lost all of then to a hard drive failure, so only managed to save some which have been posted. So with Mals help I have them back.
The regulater does need a slight mod in the length of the arm, slight increase and angling for allowing total down of the window, so no part of the window glass is visible. You have to fab a bailey support on the front side of the frame(near to the hinges) and make that with a adjustment bolt for for and aft, of the window itself. I used the original window securing runner and removed the rubber, and attached it with urathane(sikaflex)it has to come forward slightly as to clear the frame on the lift.
I still have the templates for the glass size if anyone needs one.
Regards John
I did mine not a problem with rubbers. Around 2.5 meters per door Full length of HQ bailey rubber and the belt strips you can buy in any length.
The only problem I had found is the new toughened glass is 1 mm wider than standard and you can't fit the inner stainless belt strip in the inside. Just went to Bunnings and bought a roll of the adhesive grey felt door weather strip.
My mods were as Malcoms pics, with the door additions. I had actually took photos of my whole build but lost all of then to a hard drive failure, so only managed to save some which have been posted. So with Mals help I have them back.
The regulater does need a slight mod in the length of the arm, slight increase and angling for allowing total down of the window, so no part of the window glass is visible. You have to fab a bailey support on the front side of the frame(near to the hinges) and make that with a adjustment bolt for for and aft, of the window itself. I used the original window securing runner and removed the rubber, and attached it with urathane(sikaflex)it has to come forward slightly as to clear the frame on the lift.
I still have the templates for the glass size if anyone needs one.
Regards John
There's nothing as Sweet as a EK V8
one piece door glass
Hey RB.
Its pretty much as John said, really easy to do. I cut the top of the door to straighten the recess where the original quater window went, drilled more holes for the belt mould to clip into.
Where the bailey chanel goes I made up a new C chanel section. Was going to use cut down rear window ones but there not as deep in the c section as the front ones so I just made new ones instead of mucking around with different section / depth of bailey chanel.
As far as window winders go, I thought if you were using original winders you may just have to repossion the winder so it winds up in the middle of the glass so as to stop the window glass trying to tip and jamming when winding up.
When I fitted full windows to my old FJ I used HQ winders, there a sisor action. They worked really good as they had the adjustment needed. Unlike the FB window thats rectangular and can't really tip when winding up.
Another car I did I used the original winder mechs. and just cut & welded and stuffed around for ages fitting HJ electric motors, that also worked OK but a lot of stuffing around.
As far as the window glass goes I made up a template out of 3mm ply and even mounted it into the electric mechs. to make sure they worked properly. The windows I had made at the local glass mob. I think they sent away the template and they were made to automotive specs. The window cost $100.00 each. So I got 3 made incase of an emergency.
Mate hope all this ramble helps.
Cheers
Its pretty much as John said, really easy to do. I cut the top of the door to straighten the recess where the original quater window went, drilled more holes for the belt mould to clip into.
Where the bailey chanel goes I made up a new C chanel section. Was going to use cut down rear window ones but there not as deep in the c section as the front ones so I just made new ones instead of mucking around with different section / depth of bailey chanel.
As far as window winders go, I thought if you were using original winders you may just have to repossion the winder so it winds up in the middle of the glass so as to stop the window glass trying to tip and jamming when winding up.
When I fitted full windows to my old FJ I used HQ winders, there a sisor action. They worked really good as they had the adjustment needed. Unlike the FB window thats rectangular and can't really tip when winding up.
Another car I did I used the original winder mechs. and just cut & welded and stuffed around for ages fitting HJ electric motors, that also worked OK but a lot of stuffing around.
As far as the window glass goes I made up a template out of 3mm ply and even mounted it into the electric mechs. to make sure they worked properly. The windows I had made at the local glass mob. I think they sent away the template and they were made to automotive specs. The window cost $100.00 each. So I got 3 made incase of an emergency.
Mate hope all this ramble helps.
Cheers
Malcolm W.
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mrs ratbox
i want to go electric eventually so i'm not getting to carried away ATM, i've been told that hi undies have just a push up pull down set up simular to yors malcom
for now i'm just gunna put orange perspex in, it'll just be for a while maybe
prolly till i do something about electrics
afterall i was gunna have no windows for a while
wanted one peice so i just went and pulled it all apart, i drive with the windows down all the time anyway 
another quick question do you just drop the larger glass in from the top?
for now i'm just gunna put orange perspex in, it'll just be for a while maybe
prolly till i do something about electricsafterall i was gunna have no windows for a while
wanted one peice so i just went and pulled it all apart, i drive with the windows down all the time anyway another quick question do you just drop the larger glass in from the top?
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mrs ratbox
just perspex for now, probably longer
it's just shonky for now but how easy
removed old window, removed flipper window, take bailey channel from channel in flipper window, silastic in front channel of window frame, cut perspex to new size put it back togeather again with all mechanisms and winder unmodified and in original position addmitadly this may change with the extra weight of glass if and when that happens
kool orange perspex, oh i got board and chucked some quick rough scallops on it
it's just shonky for now but how easy
removed old window, removed flipper window, take bailey channel from channel in flipper window, silastic in front channel of window frame, cut perspex to new size put it back togeather again with all mechanisms and winder unmodified and in original position
addmitadly this may change with the extra weight of glass if and when that happens kool orange perspex, oh i got board and chucked some quick rough scallops on it
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mrs ratbox