Has anyone used the body tag rivets on ebay and if so how are they installed ?
Thanks Greg
Body ID tag rivets
Body ID tag rivets
So many cars so little time!
Re: Body ID tag rivets
Hey Greg I purchased a couple of these to use but never tried to use them, they seem quite hard and I had no way of trying to rivet them when I am by myself all the time, so I ended up using pop rivets when I put Frank's tag back on after he was painted.
Neil
Neil
Member of WA FB/EK Car Club
Frankenstein EK V6 Ute
The Reverend FB Station Wagon Project
1950's Commer Light Truck (2.5 Ton)
Frankenstein EK V6 Ute
The Reverend FB Station Wagon Project
1950's Commer Light Truck (2.5 Ton)
Re: Body ID tag rivets
Thanks Neil,
I thought there would be a catch to these !
I might use some pop rivets as well or some nice pretty stainless button head screws.
Greg
I thought there would be a catch to these !
I might use some pop rivets as well or some nice pretty stainless button head screws.
Greg
So many cars so little time!
Re: Body ID tag rivets
Hi Greg ,
If they're the ones below, and you have a spare set of hands, you can hold a dolly on the engine bay side (preferably a rounded one such as a ball pen hammer to avoid possible marks on the rivet or tag)) while someone on the other side hits a rounded punch (a ball pein hammer works) to mushroom the backside against the firewall. The slits in the back are designed to allow it to spread
I found the following on the web that you could use if you're on your own.
1) The easiest way is to merely epoxy the rivets in place (do not use super glue). Put a small amount of epoxy around the barrel part of the rivet and push the rivet through the trim tag into the firewall/cowl. Let the epoxy set and the tag will look like it was installed at the factory. No one can see behind the firewall/cowl to see that the rivet was not crushed against the back. As an extra precaution I would suggest putting a dab of the epoxy on the back of the trim tag.
2) If you can get to the back of the firewall or cowl (on 1968 and up GM cars) you can actually make a simple tool to install the rivet like GM did. Get a 3/16" bolt about 5/8" to 3/4" long two washers and a nut. Put the first washer on the bolt. Push the bolt through the rivet. The rivet is designed to break open. Insert the bolt through the rivet. Push the bolt and rivet through the firewall or cowl. From the back-side put the other washer on the bolt and then the nut. Tighten the assembly as hard as you can. This will crush the rivet against the back-side if the firewall or cowl. Remove the assembly and do the same exact thing on the other side. In addition, I would still dab some epoxy around the barrel part of the rivet to ensure that it will never loosen up.
Note: Do not use a washer with a larger diameter than the ring of the rivet. If you use too large of a washer, you may flatten some of the alpha/numeric stampings.
Cheers,
John
If they're the ones below, and you have a spare set of hands, you can hold a dolly on the engine bay side (preferably a rounded one such as a ball pen hammer to avoid possible marks on the rivet or tag)) while someone on the other side hits a rounded punch (a ball pein hammer works) to mushroom the backside against the firewall. The slits in the back are designed to allow it to spread
- Body tag rivets 2.jpg (26.58 KiB) Viewed 908 times
1) The easiest way is to merely epoxy the rivets in place (do not use super glue). Put a small amount of epoxy around the barrel part of the rivet and push the rivet through the trim tag into the firewall/cowl. Let the epoxy set and the tag will look like it was installed at the factory. No one can see behind the firewall/cowl to see that the rivet was not crushed against the back. As an extra precaution I would suggest putting a dab of the epoxy on the back of the trim tag.
2) If you can get to the back of the firewall or cowl (on 1968 and up GM cars) you can actually make a simple tool to install the rivet like GM did. Get a 3/16" bolt about 5/8" to 3/4" long two washers and a nut. Put the first washer on the bolt. Push the bolt through the rivet. The rivet is designed to break open. Insert the bolt through the rivet. Push the bolt and rivet through the firewall or cowl. From the back-side put the other washer on the bolt and then the nut. Tighten the assembly as hard as you can. This will crush the rivet against the back-side if the firewall or cowl. Remove the assembly and do the same exact thing on the other side. In addition, I would still dab some epoxy around the barrel part of the rivet to ensure that it will never loosen up.
Note: Do not use a washer with a larger diameter than the ring of the rivet. If you use too large of a washer, you may flatten some of the alpha/numeric stampings.
Cheers,
John