Hey guys,
I found an alternator bracket on eBay that I'm thinking about using on the EK.
Question is, do I need to change out the starter motor as well?
Didn't know that there was a 12 volt option. I thought that if I wired it through the original regulator, the 6 volt starter.might still work...
Any help?
Sent from my HTC One XL using Tapatalk 2
Alternator conversion.
Alternator conversion.
_________________________________________
Cheers,
Dan - OLDN64
Western Australia
Cheers,
Dan - OLDN64
Western Australia
Re: Alternator conversion.
Hi bloke,
Good question with a simple answer. Although EK's used a generator, they were 12V generators with 12V batteries, starter motors, globes etc.
The question is whether you still need to use an external regulator. That will depend on which alternator you fit, and if it has an internal regulator (I think they all did after HJ, but don't take my word for it).
It's a very, very simple hook-up that will take an auto-lekky all of about 3 minutes.
Good question with a simple answer. Although EK's used a generator, they were 12V generators with 12V batteries, starter motors, globes etc.
The question is whether you still need to use an external regulator. That will depend on which alternator you fit, and if it has an internal regulator (I think they all did after HJ, but don't take my word for it).
It's a very, very simple hook-up that will take an auto-lekky all of about 3 minutes.
Alan
Member No.1 of the FB EK Holden Car Club of WA (Woo-hoo sweet!)
Member No.1 of the FB EK Holden Car Club of WA (Woo-hoo
sweet!)Re: Alternator conversion.
Think I've posted this before somewhere....
As stated above - your entire system is 12v.
The hardest thing you will need to do is find a bracket to fit the alternator - the body pivot is much, much narrower than that used for a generator.
Don't even think about using an alternator without an internal regulator.
Wiring required for an internal regulator is basically -
1 Heavy lead required from alternator output to battery.
2 Same sized lead providing earth from battery to vehicle body (when you remove the voltage regulator - you remove the earth lead which provides battery earth to the body - this is the black wire).
3 Small lead from "ind" terminal of alternator to the brown wire of your existing voltage regulator (the "gen" warning light).
4 Remove voltage regulator, blue and black wires.
5 join both red wires which were connected at the voltage regulator and terminate them in a small junction box.
One is from the starter motor solenoid terminal - the other goes into the vehicle to the lighting switch bus and ignition switch.
6 For safety's sake - you might like to fit a heavy duty thermo breaker in this junction box - make sure it can handle all your vehicles internal power demands (I used 40A)...... DO NOT fit a fuse or circuit breaker.... if it trips/blows - you'll lose your headlights .... frightening at speed.
There will not be any short or overload protection between the starter motor and wiring loom supplies once you remove the voltage regulator.... a thermo breaker will prevent an electrical fire - and close intermittently providing some (a short burst every now and then) lighting to stop with.
Place the thermo breaker early in the supply line from the starter motor. I fitted mine on the outer end of the firewall, just above the toe-board - protected in substantial conduit and secured with cable clamps.
You don't need to do the following - but to keep it all neat and disguised, my method was to replace these leads with a new heavy duty lead inside convoluted conduit (and include the starter motor solenoid switch lead) and pass it through the firewall here inside a neoprene grommet and then run the conduit internally across to the lighting,ignition and fuse block supplies.
Outputs from these switches are protected by the thermo switch on the back of the lighting switch - but this will not protect any short between the lighting switch and the battery - hence my suggestion for an additional unit on the firewall.
Happy to answer/suggest any further questions....
frats,
Rosco
As stated above - your entire system is 12v.
The hardest thing you will need to do is find a bracket to fit the alternator - the body pivot is much, much narrower than that used for a generator.
Don't even think about using an alternator without an internal regulator.
Wiring required for an internal regulator is basically -
1 Heavy lead required from alternator output to battery.
2 Same sized lead providing earth from battery to vehicle body (when you remove the voltage regulator - you remove the earth lead which provides battery earth to the body - this is the black wire).
3 Small lead from "ind" terminal of alternator to the brown wire of your existing voltage regulator (the "gen" warning light).
4 Remove voltage regulator, blue and black wires.
5 join both red wires which were connected at the voltage regulator and terminate them in a small junction box.
One is from the starter motor solenoid terminal - the other goes into the vehicle to the lighting switch bus and ignition switch.
6 For safety's sake - you might like to fit a heavy duty thermo breaker in this junction box - make sure it can handle all your vehicles internal power demands (I used 40A)...... DO NOT fit a fuse or circuit breaker.... if it trips/blows - you'll lose your headlights .... frightening at speed.
There will not be any short or overload protection between the starter motor and wiring loom supplies once you remove the voltage regulator.... a thermo breaker will prevent an electrical fire - and close intermittently providing some (a short burst every now and then) lighting to stop with.
Place the thermo breaker early in the supply line from the starter motor. I fitted mine on the outer end of the firewall, just above the toe-board - protected in substantial conduit and secured with cable clamps.
You don't need to do the following - but to keep it all neat and disguised, my method was to replace these leads with a new heavy duty lead inside convoluted conduit (and include the starter motor solenoid switch lead) and pass it through the firewall here inside a neoprene grommet and then run the conduit internally across to the lighting,ignition and fuse block supplies.
Outputs from these switches are protected by the thermo switch on the back of the lighting switch - but this will not protect any short between the lighting switch and the battery - hence my suggestion for an additional unit on the firewall.
Happy to answer/suggest any further questions....
frats,
Rosco