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The scratch plates can be a bugger to sit correctly, even when you get the correct ones (RF, RR, LF, LR) in place. The couple of cars I have done have ended up with small gaps at the bottom for some plates. Can't see it from the top, and none of my cars are show ponies so hasn't bothered me too much.

I've only ever put the tabs between gasket and paint. Putting them between gasket and plate would make the plates sit out even more, unless the tabs were bent to a step. All the tabs I've seen are flat (no step).
Cheers,
Harv

Sorted. Thanks Harv, Clay and Greg.

Off topic -

Fraze,

You would be right about a '53 model, except it isn't. I cleaned up a wombat on the Hume Highway a few years back, and the replacement front bumper came off an FJ.

And did you notice how the car was squatting down at the LHR corner? I broke a rear spring just outside Bungendore. '53s and later don't break springs as enthusiastically as the "old suspension" models.

Rob

P.S. - Had the car back on its feet at 3 pm on Friday.

A bit of progress and an idea. Was trying to use Rares clips to hold top of quarter panel stainless moulding. The clips are too inflexible and in my view too wide as well. After much trouble I used bolt down trim fittings instead. This puts no pressure on trim or paintwork and means the trim is easy to take off when required. Photo of clips used. Wurth Dab Off mastic used on every fastener.
Other photos of progress over last days attached. Would be nice to have perfect trim pieces but they are OK. Kate is in love with Wilma's tailights, and has one of my complete spares in her studio as an ornament. Gutter trim strips also now in place. Doors stainless tomorrows job.

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

She obviously has taste Brett. Buffing compound and 000 steel wool gets the trims gleaming if you can be bothered, and you can mask the paint and do on the car.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Yes, I plan to do more buffing once altogether which will include the trims. I am cleaning them up a bit first as well with Purple polish and to get deep scratches out 1500 and 2000 grit wet and dry using polish as lubricant.
Should have mentioned I'm using Sam Crupi clips for wide trim and they work perfectly. Just a slight press and they are clipped on.

Just a follow up on scratch plates. Sam Crupi scratch plates are shinier and do have a slightly stepped tab so worked best between gasket and handle. EBay sourced ones are duller and the tabs are flat and worked best between paint and gasket. I'll post a photo when I get to door stuff.

Steel wool after the emery makes a difference. You could try it instead of the 2000. My 2c.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Will do

Tried steel wool and have to agree it does a great job at cleaning and polishing stainless. Wet and dry best for scratch removal though.

What is the best way to attach the 'Special' badges to guards?

Brett027 wrote: Sun Jun 20, 2021 12:52 pm Tried steel wool and have to agree it does a great job at cleaning and polishing stainless. Wet and dry best for scratch removal though.

What is the best way to attach the 'Special' badges to guards?

I used steel wool on my windscreens using rainex as a lubricant, cleaned them up spotless

Do they have pins on them ???

Yes pins are ok Blacky. Existing holes for pins in the guards are much smaller than Rares pin clips need so wanted to check with others before drilling out the holes and buggering up the paint now sealing around the holes.

I used the flat spring clips where I could access from behind, on my bonnet letters. Looked at the rares ones and as you say. They are for bigger pins. I think the S has a threaded shank takes a spring nut like the commercial guard spears.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

I used the flat spring steel clips on my bonnet letters, they aren't dead tight but they haven't fallen off either ....

Haven't asked a question for 20mins.
What is best approach/tool to use to cut bailey channel? Tomorrow's task.