FB Standard Wagon
Re: FB Standard Wagon
Very nicely done Drew.
Neil
Neil
Member of WA FB/EK Car Club
Frankenstein EK V6 Ute
The Reverend FB Station Wagon Project
1950's Commer Light Truck (2.5 Ton)
Frankenstein EK V6 Ute
The Reverend FB Station Wagon Project
1950's Commer Light Truck (2.5 Ton)
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- Posts: 790
- Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2020 3:04 am
- State: SA
Re: FB Standard Wagon
Cheers fellas.
Rear brake lines done now…
Actually start assembling the suspension tomorrow to get her back on her wheels!
Not that I have any wheels as yet… I’d better look into that haha
Rear brake lines done now…
Actually start assembling the suspension tomorrow to get her back on her wheels!
Not that I have any wheels as yet… I’d better look into that haha
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Drew
Re: FB Standard Wagon
bloody overachievers
looks great mate, well on track to be at the nationals




looks great mate, well on track to be at the nationals


I started with nothing and still have most of it left.
Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.
Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.
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- Posts: 790
- Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2020 3:04 am
- State: SA
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- Posts: 790
- Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2020 3:04 am
- State: SA
Re: FB Standard Wagon
Thanks Harv, I have my fingers crossed they won’t leak.Harv wrote: Sun Dec 05, 2021 6:52 pm
If you get stuck for the brass block, give me a yell. I've only just taken the one out of the FB to run the disk brakes. I have no idea where I put it, but it will be on top of the pile, wherever it is![]()
Cheers,
Harv
God knows I have done the tube nuts up FT so I’m screwed if they do leak haha.
Drew
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- Posts: 2051
- Joined: Wed May 16, 2012 10:18 pm
- State: SA
- Location: South Australia
Re: FB Standard Wagon
Nice work Drew,
Those lines look very sharp indeed. Good stuff
Stephen
Those lines look very sharp indeed. Good stuff

Stephen
A day in the shed beats a day at work!
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- State: SA
Re: FB Standard Wagon
Morning peoples.
So I got the the rear springs and diff housing fitted.
Pretty straight forward and it looks the goods.
I was going to rebuild the diff center myself but I need specialist tools and expertise that I don’t have so I dropped the banjo center of the the diff specialist at Marion Road.
They won’t have it done u til after Xmas but that’s cool
So I got the the rear springs and diff housing fitted.
Pretty straight forward and it looks the goods.
I was going to rebuild the diff center myself but I need specialist tools and expertise that I don’t have so I dropped the banjo center of the the diff specialist at Marion Road.
They won’t have it done u til after Xmas but that’s cool
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Drew
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Re: FB Standard Wagon
Next up is fitting is front end.
Dropped it in place with my brother yesterday and it’s sits in place well with new rare spares rubber.
However the front leg which mounts under the radiator has a big gap to fill.
Does this look normal?
I would have thought it should be sitting down closer more flush
My brother daughter to add a spacer to fill the gap but I’m looking for opinions on if it looks correct to you guys please.
Dropped it in place with my brother yesterday and it’s sits in place well with new rare spares rubber.
However the front leg which mounts under the radiator has a big gap to fill.
Does this look normal?
I would have thought it should be sitting down closer more flush
My brother daughter to add a spacer to fill the gap but I’m looking for opinions on if it looks correct to you guys please.
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Drew
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Re: FB Standard Wagon
I just placed a different front end on for a comparison and it looks the same …
Certainly looks odd to me…
Certainly looks odd to me…
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Drew
Re: FB Standard Wagon
Nothing unusual Drew, as Brett says. Just bolt it up before you do the long bolts.
Great progress.
Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk
Great progress.
Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
EK van on rotisserie
- BILLY BLACKARROW
- Posts: 1065
- Joined: Thu Aug 21, 2008 9:22 pm
- State: NSW
- Location: NEWCASTLE MACQUARIE HILLS
Re: FB Standard Wagon
Mine was the same as that to at the time I asked the same question



BILLY BLACKARROW
MY Father always said do the hard part first --because when you are OVER IT you only have the easy part left to do THINGS I HAVE TRIED TO LIVE BY
MY Father always said do the hard part first --because when you are OVER IT you only have the easy part left to do THINGS I HAVE TRIED TO LIVE BY
Re: FB Standard Wagon
Drew,
The outrigger will only sit correctly in place when the four big bolts are installed and tight. The "top hat" rubbers have to compress a fair amount.
And: it's best if, on disassembly, you (had) marked the short and long tubular spacers so that they go back in their original positions. Both types of spacers come in different lengths. There's a long, long spacer; and a short, long spacer. The long, long spacer goes at the rear. The short spacers are used to set the amount of compression in the rubbers. See the workshop manual for the gory details, including the use of a micrometer depth gauge (as if your average mechanics' shop will have one of those . . .) You want to compress the front rubbers a bit more than the rear so that the outrigger tongue is centred in its rubber when the U-clamp is in place.
But you have machine tools, and can adjust spacer lengths to suit.
Hint: king-pin front suspensions like lots of positive caster. That happens when the outrigger tongue sits close to the front subframe tie member.
Hint: Assemble the control arms onto the the front crossmember before you put the front suspension in the car. And it's much easier to install the front springs when the engine and gearbox are in the car..
Rob
The outrigger will only sit correctly in place when the four big bolts are installed and tight. The "top hat" rubbers have to compress a fair amount.
And: it's best if, on disassembly, you (had) marked the short and long tubular spacers so that they go back in their original positions. Both types of spacers come in different lengths. There's a long, long spacer; and a short, long spacer. The long, long spacer goes at the rear. The short spacers are used to set the amount of compression in the rubbers. See the workshop manual for the gory details, including the use of a micrometer depth gauge (as if your average mechanics' shop will have one of those . . .) You want to compress the front rubbers a bit more than the rear so that the outrigger tongue is centred in its rubber when the U-clamp is in place.
But you have machine tools, and can adjust spacer lengths to suit.
Hint: king-pin front suspensions like lots of positive caster. That happens when the outrigger tongue sits close to the front subframe tie member.
Hint: Assemble the control arms onto the the front crossmember before you put the front suspension in the car. And it's much easier to install the front springs when the engine and gearbox are in the car..
Rob
Re: FB Standard Wagon
Like the others said mate, normal . Looking good 

I started with nothing and still have most of it left.
Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.
Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.