fbekholden.com

Interesting to see it mostly eat the lifter instead of wiping the cam lobe back to round.

That valve train feels like it's possessed. Exorcise the demons with Cooper's finest holy water and installation of around 290 degrees of duration...

Cheers,
Harv

The lobe lost a fair bit of metal as well now I look at it. New one will have to be run in with stock springs. Bit of a pain but apparently the lifters need to work harden.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Zinc based oil and paste on the lobes, start and run at 2000 rpm for at least 20 minutes.

Do not idle then check for pushrod rotation when its running.

The idea is to bed the lifter to the lobe.

Try again Clay !!!

Greg

Hi Clay
Are you able to get a look at the cam bearings near that lobe I would be concerned that the missing metal would have ground up and mixed with oil be like grinding paste.
Neil

Greg I did all the above but the rear lifter never spun. Machinists advice was to forget about it and it may never spin. In hindsight I could have pulled the cam and started with a new one but at the time during covid lock downs there was a shortage of cam billets, and I was due in Toowoomba within 2 weeks. Was a brand new cam and lifters bu obviously now, not up to scratch.

Neil the motor is coming apart now so I will give it a good clean and going over and look at all the bearings. Asto the cam itself all the damage appears to be limited to the rear lobe. I will, though, have a closer look at all the journals.

Jonny has sent me the spec sheet on what he recommends for my application. He also i believe machines the lifters, so I expect it to be all ticketyboo this time. Cam will have 205 duration at 050, 109 separation, and 0.435 lift which is a tad more than the old one. Have to run in with soft stock springs. It is a pain, but better than needing a new one at 10,000 miles. He recommended more compression but I will have to think about that one.

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Errol62 wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2023 12:36 pm He recommended more compression

Never a bad idea

Yeh here we go...

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Blacky wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2023 12:50 pm

Errol62 wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2023 12:36 pm He recommended more compression

Never a bad idea

The head is almost off... a 50-thou shaving can't hurt

Cheers,
Harv

Here is the spec sheet. I better get the head done I suppose.

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Nice low-end/mid range torque. Similar to a Crow 35602 but with better lift.

I run a Marshall cam in the chebbie in the wagon.

Cheers,
Harv

Good to know Harv, thanks. Price is basically the same as Crow as well, but with the guesswork taken out.

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Pretty similar to the old one really. Bit more lift and slightyless duration, so I can probably stick with the head for now.

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New pushrods will help achieve specified lift with the 265psi spring pressure specified.
Decided to keep it simple, not get carried away, and leave the head on for now. Just want to be sure it is running as good as it was before things failed.

Glen has loaned me a bucket of stock springs to run it in.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

But then I got carried away and ordered a fancy Mal Wood hydraulic thrust bearing. I've never been entirely happy with the dellow adaptor that Brett kindly gave me. It is quite direct, making for a heavy pedal, which doesn't really worry me. It is also very close to the subframe leg, which I had to clearence somewhat already. The main concern is that it gives too much travel, leading to premature failure of the pressure plate fingers. Another concern is that I've broken these before, albeit a cast iron one rather than aluminium as currently fitted. The alignment isn't ideal, and the casting quality is pretty poor when it comes to the mating faces.

I also looked at an alternative bracket from kingswood country which uses an EH style slave, externally mounted and acting further out on the throw out lever, but clearence appeared unachievable with this setup. No one in their right mind would use the old rat trap style setup, and I'm not mucking around with cables either.

Truth be told, I just love the simplicity of the Mal Wood setup and should work a treat. Just one thing though, it needs a 5/8" inch master cylinder instead of the stock 1". So, on the phone to Power Brakes SA about resleeving the stock master in stainless and shock horror, it's dearer than the cost of the Mal Wood setup. So now on the hunt for a 5/8" clutch master. XW are correct diameter, though they appear to mount on a slight incline, which just means the reservoir lid would tilt forward slightly. Minor modification to firewall and pushrod no doubt required.

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Errol62 wrote: ↑Mon Oct 16, 2023 2:47 pm , it needs a 5/8" inch master cylinder instead of the stock 1". So, on the phone to Power Brakes SA about resleeving the stock master in stainless and shock horror, it's dearer than the cost of the Mal Wood setup.

I just had a look on the Mal Wood website to see what he was offering - they are pretty bloody spendy all right

Does pick a part have a motorcycle section ? Reckon a bike one would do the job