Ol' Rusty - FB/EK Sedan

[FireKraka]

I don’t do FB is there any contact details for the guy making those pieces.

[funkyscooter]

I don’t do FB is there any contact details for the guy making those pieces.

I don't either but the FB EK Holden Owners and Enthusiasts Group is open to everyone so have a look every now and then in a web browser
https://www.facebook.com/groups/29093077912

But because I don't do FB the only details I have are Thomson Chassis & Replacement panel Fabrications Traralgon Vic 3844. . No phone number

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Blacky and Clay post on there so they might be able to help you out.

[In the Shed]

Hey Scott
Neat work indeed, always good to see how you tackle your jobs.

Just curious what thickness steel did you press 1.0mm? Also what tonnage is the press rated at?

Regards
Stephen

[funkyscooter]

Just curious what thickness steel did you press 1.0mm? Also what tonnage is the press rated at?

Hey Stephen
Its 1mm cold rolled steel.Very malleable and easy to press.
The press has a 10 Ton sticker on it but it is an ebay special so who knows.

[Brett027]

Try 0427 567 281

[In the Shed]

Just curious what thickness steel did you press 1.0mm? Also what tonnage is the press rated at?

Hey Stephen
Its 1mm cold rolled steel.Very malleable and easy to press.
The press has a 10 Ton sticker on it but it is an ebay special so who knows.

[FireKraka]

Cheers guys thanks for the contact details.

[funkyscooter]

Could be accused for oversharing with the photos. But here goes anyway.
Final fit up and scribing before cutting. Still a bit of work needed on the inner but fitting the outer first.

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My wood block profile is not as close as hoped. Will need a bit of work to find some common ground. Never going to see it anyway.

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Outer profile is pretty close though. Just a few bends here and there with a screw driver should line them up.

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Checking to see how close the profile of the curve sits against the original panel. Found that if I put a small amount of pressure behind the two panels they line up.

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[funkyscooter]

Bit of copper weld through primer, clamped and off I go. Started by plug welding the wheel arch to hold it all in place. Then made a mistake. Didn't put the little panel clamps on. Didn't think I needed them as the panel was lined up perfectly with a 1mm gap. Tacked it every 2 inches with copper block behind and air to cool. As those welds cooled they pulled the gap closed in a couple spots. Out with the Dremel, cut a few welds and ran a new gap where it had closed up and continue. Lesson still not learnt. More action with the Dremel. Should have just cut the tack welds and started again with the panel clamps on.
Running the MIG in its new sweet spot, blew 4 holes but mostly worked a treat. With the gap around 1 mm didn't even need the copper. Bigger gaps - copper block, and patience, helped.

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Left it overnight then filled in the rest. Still had to relieve a couple of places with the Dremel and the one area where I didn't has ended up a touch high. Bit of hammer and dolly, 40Grit flap disc, 80 grit powerfile and 80 grit DA orbital sander got me here. Still a bit of work needed near the arch. Pic of inside guard shows good penetration. Fine line between a good weld and blow through on this setting but the best so far.

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Might get to the inner this weekend

[Errol62]

Great job Scott. Even with the clamps I find they get pinched in the gap as the weld shrinks, and the seam (conveniently?) puckers inward to allow a smear of filler. Most of the time I'm too impatient to get the quench bar behind so maybe that is why.

I reckon your pressings came out well. I find it hard to predict how things will line up once you start working the sheet. I am tending to shape the piece on the car as it is welded on.

Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

[FireKraka]

Hey Scott awesome work there I have to tackle this area when I get on to my wagon (just had my other knee replaced) so really helpful seeing how you have done this.
I think it has been said but you would think that somebody (Rare Spares ) would make these panels properly so we don't have to mess with them
Regards
Neil

[EK283]

Absolutely perfect welding, just hot enough to melt the wire and parent metal in short bursts.

When you get the setting right the welds are flatter because the heat melts the filler rod more. And if you are real good you weld half on the previous weld just before it looses its redness, best result is at1 inch increments then cool with air, move to the other end and so on. Another trick i learnt was to grind the tacks backs flat and you can weld over the top for good uniform penetration.

Now out with the slap hammer dolly and file and in a couple of hours you will almost need no filler.

Great work,

Regards Greg

[Blacky]

Lovely work , I watched a real good youtube vid of a bloke welding a long flat panel with a mig the other day , had some useful info in it - will try and find it again and post the link.

[Blacky]

Here it is - its long but pretty informative
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9XwMkR6Q9Rs

[funkyscooter]

Thanks for sharing Blacky. I'll check it out.
Had a bit of a deep dive on metal shrinking after I posted the other day as I have a few high spots. Found this guy doing a decent tutorial on shrinking and using a slapper and dolly. Good stuff for me to mimic when my 9" shrinking disk and angle grinder arrives - love a tool and this one looks like a must have. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3C6Da9Svfes and another one with a bit more detail on cooling https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGuc06GMwG4

Greg the over lap on the cooling weld is def the way to go. First spot in the run is always the shabbiest as it is going on to 'cold' metal.
Also distance between metal and tip is critical. I find 10mm is about right. Makes it a bit hard to pin point the spot weld at times depending on the weld position. And if the wire starts to burn back or glow, I stop and let it cool otherwise the next weld will be crap.

Clay - good to know your welds are pulling in even with the clamps. Maybe I just need to use more!

Neil - good luck getting those knees back into shape. I reckon a few weeks crawling around the back of the car will help