LS1EK

[Errol62]

Thanks Taz. I’m well familiar with ranex. Good stuff which converts iron oxide to iron phosphate but doesn’t bond well to clean steel.

Like you say I would not paint over it unless you are using oil based enamel. It seems to be practically same as deoxedine or metal prep. So my normal process is to scrub it off with water and scotchbrite pad before it drys. If it has dried I would go over it with the wire wheel and try take it off before applying acrylic or epoxy.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[TAZ]

Thanks Taz. I’m well familiar with ranex. Good stuff which converts iron oxide to iron phosphate but doesn’t bond well to clean steel.

Like you say I would not paint over it unless you are using oil based enamel. It seems to be practically same as deoxedine or metal prep. So my normal process is to scrub it off with water and scotchbrite pad before it drys. If it has dried I would go over it with the wire wheel and try take it off before applying acrylic or epoxy.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Yep got ya. To be honest I will go over the whole lot with the orbital sander before applying any paint. I looked at the KBS system but you basically had to apply primer straight away where as the rainx stuff you can leave it until you are ready to apply paint.

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[59wagon]

Hey Taz, yep I like Rustbuster, though I’ve found it can start rusting again even by the next day - depending on weather conditions of course. So now I at least put a primer or paint on straight after it’s dried and wiped clean. Here’s a snippet from the instructions:

“-note Ranex Rustbuster will convert the rust however it will not prevent it from re-occuring. treated surfaces left uncoated may experience further rusting.”

Cheers, John


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[Errol62]

Just like deoxedine metal prep, you need to apply paint within four hours of treating, or treat again.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[rosco]

If this is of any help, when I've used de-oxidine to treat rust that I can't mechanically remove - I've let it completely dry and then air dusted it.
As soon as I'm certain it is dry, I have gone over the top with a 1K etch... Protec 426 is my preferred, but I am unable to get the original Protec 1K etch that I used in this process... it had chromate in it.... the newer "safer" version seems to work ok, but I had great results with the previous chromate version.
The only occasions where I have done this is with panel work.

For sub floor/underbody and internal coating - my preferred is POR-15... I have not had any issues at all with this amazing product.
My interior floor is coated with fishoilene, enamel primer and epoxy enamel.... if ever I have to remove that - it will get POR-15 treatment.

frats,
Rosco

[TAZ]

Hi John, Errol and Rosco.
Thanks for the feedback about the rust converter. I paid the paint shop a visit and raised the issue with them. Yep they confirmed everything you all said. Clean the excess off and under coast asap.

It appears I was served by the shop boy who knows nothing about the product .

So I purchased a KBS kit and have decided to wheel the body outside and clean it inside and out with the pressure cleaner. I will the dry it off before using the KBS on the inside of the seals and chassis.

Once this is done I will then use the KBS on the inside and underside of the body.

On a good note I have shrunk the floor pans with the oxy which had distorted from when being welded . They are now nice and flat and are not flexing under weight.

Once again thanks for your advice and help.

Cheers Taz


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[rosco]

Part of the journey, Taz.

have you looked at POR-15 yet? It's almost perfect for underbody and the lower parts of door internals... well worth a read.

Last time I saw it, the 993 ml can best price was $99.... varies from retailer to retailer... have seen it as high as $138.

Don't be duped into the small kit.. most of it is cleaner and prepping fluid and some gloves (which I highly recommend to use with this stuff - but any
nitrile gloves will do)... with only a tiny can of POR-15 in it...

frats,
Rosco

[TAZ]

The KBS kis was available off the shelf. I got the chassis coating kit for $115 came with cleaning solution, rust blast be 1L of rust seal paint plus gloves. seemed fairly good value. Just need to work out how I will get the paint up inside the cavity of the seals.

KBS do a cavity seler but it does it appear to be sold in OZ?

I have used this before and it appears to give a good coverage.

https://knockout-rust.com.au/

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[Errol62]

Just pump the sills full of oil. You can use a schutz gun with flexible hose and 360 degree nozzle, readily available. Fish oil, organic or synthetic is common, but Cary in our club just used sump oil. You’ll never get inside the sills clean enough for paint to stick unless you replace the outer. The oil penetrates the rust scale and neutralises it. After painting is complete. You can drill 3/4” holes in the sill tops under the scuff plates and fit rubber plugs for occasional top ups. I’m doing it in all my box sections and the door bottoms. My tailgate is new inside after re-skin, so I’ll put cavity wax in there.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[TAZ]

Just pump the sills full of oil. You can use a schutz gun with flexible hose and 360 degree nozzle, readily available. Fish oil, organic or synthetic is common, but Cary in our club just used sump oil. You’ll never get inside the sills clean enough for paint to stick unless you replace the outer. The oil penetrates the rust scale and neutralises it. After painting is complete. You can drill 3/4” holes in the sill tops under the scuff plates and fit rubber plugs for occasional top ups. I’m doing it in all my box sections and the door bottoms. My tailgate is new inside after re-skin, so I’ll put cavity wax in there.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

I had already added extra holes for the purpose of using the KBS kit. There was plenty of liquid running out. Just kept rotating the shell on the rotisserie and squirting it in through all the openings. Will let it dry and then flood it with some of the knock out rust.



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[Errol62]

Then oil when it is finished to be sure to be sure


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[rosco]

It's not going to ever cause you issues with this method Taz....

I plugged up all the holes in my sills and pumped cans and cans of fishoilene into them... with a home-made 360 deg fan nozzle...
Left it in there for a day or two then drained it out through the removed plugs... I repeated this a few times...

Make sure you break open the factory drain ports... you'll find that some/all of them have been clamp welded closed.... left side seems to be the most affected by rust.... the camber on the road when vehicles are parked leaves the vehicle leaning that way more often than the right side....

Don't forget the two drain ports in the front of the sub-frame corners as well... and, if you haven't got any in there - make some.... and please, please - fit rubber grommets to the outrigger bolt mount holes across the top.... 1", from memory.

frats,
Rosco

[TAZ]

It's not going to ever cause you issues with this method Taz....

I plugged up all the holes in my sills and pumped cans and cans of fishoilene into them... with a home-made 360 deg fan nozzle...
Left it in there for a day or two then drained it out through the removed plugs... I repeated this a few times...

Make sure you break open the factory drain ports... you'll find that some/all of them have been clamp welded closed.... left side seems to be the most affected by rust.... the camber on the road when vehicles are parked leaves the vehicle leaning that way more often than the right side....

Don't forget the two drain ports in the front of the sub-frame corners as well... and, if you haven't got any in there - make some.... and please, please - fit rubber grommets to the outrigger bolt mount holes across the top.... 1", from memory.

frats,
Rosco

Yes mate, opened up the squashed drain ports etc. Deffinitley worth taking the time to ensure it all gets a nice coating.

Is nice to get it at the stage where things are getting completed.

Cheers, Simon

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[rosco]

Keep going, Simon... little bit more to do yet.
When it's all back together and all you seem to have to do is wash and wax it... grab a cool drink (or hot, if a cold day)... and sit a little distance away from the build..... you'll quickly reflect on just how much work has gone into it...... we spend much of our lives on these amazing relics - no-one can appreciate just how much of them unless they have done so...... doing it "right" will save you years of grief.

Rest assured, there will be "niggles".... finding them during the build puts you back in time... but it's time well spent - far easier to change things in the build stage, rather than have to undo work on completion...

frats,
Rosco

[TAZ]

Well I was going to throw some undercoat on the floor. However I decided to do a final mock up of everything. This will allow me to plumb it and wire it. I am hoping to also get the engineer to look at.

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