fbekholden.com

Finny wrote:Rubbers across the bonnet, yes. Above the guards and front guards inside, no.
I have some left over when you get to that point.

cheers Finny went and payed the big bucks and purchased a full resto rubber kit when they had 20 % off and my inner rubbers under the guards are still pretty good so should be able to reuse them.

removed front section on the weekend not too bad behind the apron rust wise just mainly surface will see what it looks like after i get the wire wheel onto it might tell a different story.
plan to build an adjustable trolly to raise the body up higher so as i can wire wheel under the body unless i can source a rotisserie to make it easier .

well removed all drivetrain and lifted car up higher onto a dolly trolly to wire wheel under carriage

under radiator support couldn't believe some cowboy has just bogged over this .

well today planning on finishing up welds and sand front clip back to bare did go out and buy a sand blaster but waste of time compressor just not big enough using some 3 inch quick change discs on the die grinder for the little nooks and nannies seem to be working well.
unfortunately work is getting in the way of this resto might have to change tis i think.

Great work Fishyweare.. exemplorary, in fact.

I am like an old worn out record - please! - put some blanking plugs in those two outrigger access holes when you finish putting it back together.
I still see many who have not done this. It's the biggest issue the subframe will ever have - crap gets washed/blown down through those two holes and can't get out.
It's an uphill climb backwards to get over/around the crossmember mounting bolts - and stuff just stays in there and rusts out the front corners.
When you had the subframe cut ope - you would have seen quite a bit of crap in there...
I drilled extra drainage holes along the bottom and in the corner to allow any water to get out... but leaves, rodent remnants and anything else which goes down those holes will become a poultice to entice rusting .... I lost my original sub-frame to this.

Yes, bog - hidden behind and under the lower baffle - grrrrr...... might have been a backyarder - but I wouldn't put it past a panelbeater either.
Big job to get to the front of the subframe and replace the section as you have done.

I'm guessing it ran into something and they just bogged it up then fitted replacement parts and sprayed it - bewdy! job done!

Ok - yes, work - forgot about that..... over five years now since I was employed... and I'm busier than ever - don't put anything into the "retirement" basket ... do it now - you've got more time than I do... you'll see....

frats,
Rosco

managed to do a little bit more this week

Fishy that drum is a later flat faced drum and you shouldn't use them with the standard rims. The standard drum is dished so it will mate up to the standard rim correctly. If you try and bolt a standard wheel rim up to a later drum you will distort the rim at its mounting face.

Bugger will check rims to see if any distortion yet cause I don't know how many years its been on there for.
what about the weights are these to balance the drum them self or ment to be on a particular side of the car . I am sure they are just to balance the drums but just need clarification.
cheers
Paul

Pretty sure they are just to balance the brake drum , cant imagine they would balance the axle or front hub with the drum ......

sanding sanding sanding oh when will it end . lol

wire wheels and strip disc's made the mistake of using a wire wheel over one of the rear fender peaks and knocked a fair bit of lead out in this area lesson learnt .
nearly finished the body and interior underbody to go not looking forward to that one .
decided to paint engine bay and underbody same as exterior and crossmember and diff etc either black or gunmetal grey .

Time for an update i think, well finished underbody back to bare metal and found some nasty sections which had been packed with bog and more bog wouldn't have known until ripping the wire wheel over the sections front floors from inside had new floor sections welded in but the old floor were never taken out talk about a shit job . so bought some replacements from Taylors but unfortunately they were all too small so had to make up sections for the front and rear of the new sections took a bloody long time to fab but am happy to say all done now just need to run a bit of filler over welds

Great work

X2 - I do like to see permanent work..... you won't ever see this floor again once you cover it.

I was told to use a "welder's etch" where the new steel is fused into the original - it has zinc in it and its main purpose is to prevent electrolysis... brought about by the different metal.

Of course, this would be accelerated if any salt were to come in contact with it - which is unlikely, but if you want to ensure that the new steel doesn't begin to attack the old - just behind the heated original steel... a light coat of this special coating will electrically join the two and prevent any possible anode/cathode electrolysis... you probably know all this.

I did this to mine when I welded in the trans hump - then over-coated the entire area in primers then multiple top coats of epoxy enamel.
I did this both above and below the floor line.

frats,
Rosco

rosco wrote:X2 - I do like to see permanent work..... you won't ever see this floor again once you cover it.

I was told to use a "welder's etch" where the new steel is fused into the original - it has zinc in it and its main purpose is to prevent electrolysis... brought about by the different metal.

Of course, this would be accelerated if any salt were to come in contact with it - which is unlikely, but if you want to ensure that the new steel doesn't begin to attack the old - just behind the heated original steel... a light coat of this special coating will electrically join the two and prevent any possible anode/cathode electrolysis... you probably know all this.

I did this to mine when I welded in the trans hump - then over-coated the entire area in primers then multiple top coats of epoxy enamel.
I did this both above and below the floor line.

frats,
Rosco

yeah Rosco inside and out will be zinc primed then 2 pac primed before paint .

been looking at different insulator and sound deadners and have decide to use a product we also use at work to insulate cushion boxes in the air con trade has good acoustic value .
this product is a rubber foam base with silver foil and is a stick on bought a 30 meter roll 1200 wide will be doing roof area and floors doors etc when that time should come .
at the stage where i need to work out what to do with fuel tank as mine is pretty dented and top has a few rust holes will either pull the top off mine and try and belt the dents out but unsure if i will succeed as there is a couple of bad creases or try and find another which is becoming hard to source or mustang tank or xa xb tank if i go the other i need to cut the rear floor now before going any further.
i am told that the mustang tank will sit 2 inches lower than standard and they are flat on top so spare wheel will still fit and xa xb has a tyre well in theres so won't be a problem.
i could build one at work but don't have the tooling for the round edges and not to keen on the square edge finish.
open to ideas ?
cheers
Paul
better yet anyone have a spare tank in Brisbane area at a reasonable price lol.