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hey there guys the ute is waiting at the panel beaters to be started in the new year I know its been waiting a while but the quality for the cost isn't bad just waiting in the queue is annoying as I don't like sitting around being idle I decided to start enquiries about the rear tub, as you will know when we got her it was fitted with a piece of checker plate in the back so I have nothing of the original wood flooring nor the strips nor the shockie inspection pieces Daniel wants to keep the checker plate but I don't think that would score very well if we put it in car shows the other things I'm wondering is the back is painted white I've seen some brown and some body colour and the last thing I don't know if is original or a repair is that the tailgate arm bar thingys (not sure what you call them) are looped through some nuts that are welded to the tailgate.

taking the above information what do I need to do to convert my ute tub back to original specs? where can I get the parts I need can the parts I need be made if so what are the dimensions?

FINALLY heard from the panel beater should start stripping the paint off next week stay tuned as we should have more photos

Great news you guys, good to see your still around. Hope you guys are going well and post pics soon.

Yeah we're still about thanks for the reply Tim I was beginning to think everyone was ignoring our thread!

Been a bit lazy uploading photos that's probably the problem and our panel beater is pretty casual but he's a lovely retired old guy that for a small price is teaching us to do things for ourselves so it's a bit slow going but we're chipping away at it

holdenutechick wrote:Been a bit lazy uploading photos that's probably the problem and our panel beater is pretty casual but he's a lovely retired old guy that for a small price is teaching us to do things for ourselves so it's a bit slow going but we're chipping away at it

Best way to do it and a very small price to pay!

SunnyTim wrote:

holdenutechick wrote:Yeah we're still about thanks for the reply Tim I was beginning to think everyone was ignoring our thread!

NO BUT WE DO WANT PICS!

We certainly do!

Hey, did you get another job?

What we were doing yesterday: http://www.srvmc.com/News/article/sid=23.html

What we were doing today
As always click for larger picture

Here we found single holes where probably the original studs were, the second picture is of the studs along the back window which don't seem to match as they are held down by two pop riverts and Daniel is pointing out one missing.

the supervisor does not seem too pleased with the workmanship

After 3 hours work, at the rate we are going we should have one side completely stripped back in a couple of days.

be carefull with those strip discs check the speed rating (if you haven't allready) the larger ones usually are only rated to spin slow from memory around 3000 rpm they are designed for buffing type machines rather than grinding type machines, i've used them on faster machines but have been told stories about them flying apart, also once you are on the big flat surfaces don't stay in one area to long as they will heat the panel and can cause damage

I have used the discs that look lick scotch brite they are a lot easier and they don't remove metal. Still have to watch the heat factor and direction of rotation, I found them at Bunnings, but you can get them almost anywhere . They are a lot easier to use on curves (NOT CHEAP) But good

' BILLY

The most important thing is do not stay in one spot
Believe me u don't want to warp any panels
Good to see you guys back into it well I Spose your really just starting
Let the fun begin
By the way u should put etch primer on the same day u strip the paint off
Surface rust sucks shit
Keep the pics coming

looking great ,please put a guard on it if it catches your shirt youll be at the doctors
i like using paint stripper for the top coats ,just for the bad as dust factor
and then clean up with a josco strip it disc
do what ever you want ,looking good

Rosko said when he gave us the stripper disc these exact words: "Keep it on slow, Don't stay in one spot and don't let it get hot"
We have followed those instructions exactly.

Don't worry.

and speaking of Surface Rust. the amount that's been behind this paint.... and the bog... holy shit. it's Bog-O-Rama!
I swear, it's Metal -> Rust -> Red Paint -> Bog -> Undercoat -> Blue paint -> Black Paint
It's like a rainbow in some places when stripping into it, because of all the layers.

As for a guard, the Ozito polisher/sander tool from bunnings didn't come with one.

Either way, Rosko said to get all the paint off, and to not worry about small gaps etc, as he will hit that with the sandblaster after the paints mostly off.

He's restored many cars, in-fact he has about six in the works currently for various people.

Here's one he prepaired earlier: "Henry the 9th"
It's one of those fun rally cars, you know, the type that raises money for charity...

Action shots. Just what we like. Good work guys.

Stewart

Micks right - they need a guard. If the Ozito doesn't have one, at least tuck your shirt in so it doesn't blow up in the breeze from the grinder and get sucked into the wheel.

I once got a pair of shorts caught in a leaf blower... damn near gave myself a DIY vasectomy before I could shut it off .

Cheers,
Harv

Use paint stripper first to get the bulk of the paint off then wash the panel down with water to nuetralise the chemical reaction.
Use the strip it disc to get off whats left. You should be able to strip the whole body that way in a day and not distort any panels.