fbekholden.com

Just curious but what is the general consensus as the best way forward for a warm grey in the bottom end once you've done new bearing and balanced crank etc.
Is there a benefit in the lightened condos that are going around? I see crank girdle may be overkill but would you go for billet bridges to replace the cast ones?
I'm having a new head put on the ute at the minute with some posing work etc but the bottom end is stock apart from the balancing and bearings when it was re-built.

For a warm grey (not a thrashed one):
Standard rods are fine.
Bearing bridges only if you are going to wind the thing above 6300rpm routinely.
Drill dizzy oil hole for pre-EK (and some EK) blocks.
Replace rear main with third-party rope seal.
Drill crank end for harmonic puller.

Cheers,
Harv

Harv wrote: Mon Sep 13, 2021 9:35 am For a warm grey (not a thrashed one):
Standard rods are fine.
Bearing bridges only if you are going to wind the thing above 6300rpm routinely.
Drill dizzy oil hole for pre-EK (and some EK) blocks.
Replace rear main with third-party rope seal.
Drill crank end for harmonic puller.

Cheers,
Harv

That sounds like the plan I am putting together at the moment, with my own bearing bridges.
I’ll be hitting the machines to make some

FbSTDwagon wrote: Mon Sep 13, 2021 5:43 pm

That sounds like the plan I am putting together at the moment, with my own bearing bridges.
I’ll be hitting the machines to make some

after seeing your bearing puller I guess that will be a walk in the park for you

Peter Grant who runs the other grey HAMB dragster in the class does not run any bearing bridges or girdles in his bottom end and he gives that thing a hiding. Yeah he’s snapped the odd crank here and there but you would not be driving a mild street car the way he drives that thing.

I had some bearing bridges in the engine In my hambster but that engine was from a salt racer that would be held wide open for extended periods of time. Once again not something you’d be doing in a mild street car.

When the time comes to freshen the donk in my wagon I’ll be pretty much following the recipe Harv has mentioned above.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Harv wrote:For a warm grey (not a thrashed one):
Standard rods are fine.
Bearing bridges only if you are going to wind the thing above 6300rpm routinely.
Drill dizzy oil hole for pre-EK (and some EK) blocks.
Replace rear main with third-party rope seal.
Drill crank end for harmonic puller.

Cheers,
Harv

The dynomotive guys are tipping 125hp after the head work - I wouldn’t have thought you could get that much with headwork alone but happy to be proven wrong


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

That's nearly 1 hp per cubic inch. B )

FB ute driver, EK van project