fbekholden.com

All this garbage on engine rebuilding is purely meant as advice not the bible but hopefully ive converted a few
once the crank spins free the same proces can be used for the rods i ilke to fit the pin and assemble them into the block without pistons and repeat the rope test each rod must spin free
the next thing is the
REAR MAIN SEAL
these things are bastards to get right but it can be done
the best rope seal to use is a graphite seal graphite is self lubricating
i fit 1 section into the block with the bearing removed and aply lots of oil to the seal and lift the crank into placei then fit the cap without the bearing and let the ends of the seal go up into the cap grove
i then tighten the cap down slowley whilst turning the crank over turn tighten turn tighten and a couple of soft clouts with a maluable hammer remove the cap oil and turn tighten then remove the cap and trim the ends of the seal with a VERRY SHARP BLADE leaving about 1 mm protruding
then repeat with the other half of the seal in the cap obviousley you have to fit the seal and trim before assembling he cap rember to leave about 1 mm of seal protruding and go slow dont over tighten the cap and turn oil turn oil and trim the protruding ends regular
repeating this proces around 50 times will result in a crank that can be turned over with a bull dozer
its time to re fit the bearing shells and more oil more hitting and more triming go slow and carefull and a good result will happen
when you can turn the crank with a long breaker bar freely the seal is seated and its time to apply sealant to the rear cap parting face {clean the oil off first with paint thinner and dont worry about a tiny bit of sealant getting on the crank } it will wipe awa y the first turn of the crank
BUT silicone sealant drys to thin strands of pasta like substance that will block a pick up strainer in 1 second flat destroying all those bearings so go SPARINGLY with these sorts of sealants
I like to glue the sump gasket to the block using gell grip let both surfaces dry and use the sump bolts to lign the gasket up as you lay it inplace on the block rember its contact adheasive you only get 1 go then its in place but a bit of thinners can alow a small amount of movement glue the arches in place the same way sit the sump on and 2 or 3 bolts then leave it to set whilst you rebuild the oil pump

imm having lots of drama with poasting pictures and that combined with someone stealing my work vehicle from outside my house UN INSURED and not recoverd and a RMS audit that has highlighted my shortcomoings on clerical duties has delayed anny work on vallery but ill get back to her soon

DISPONDANT platinum man
PS
and a sucky rainy weekend hasnt helped
thirsty work this
CHEERS
The platinum man

Thanks mate - good read

Bloody thieves

Very entertaining dribble man. Bad news about thrives and auditors.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

oil pumps are a great topic of discusion
an oil pump putting out 2000 lb pressure is gunna take a lot of driving
an oil pump putting out 10 lb psi aint gona cost mutch
an engine at idle dont need ANNY psi OIL pressure
ITS UNDER NO not anny thing nothing zerro LOAD
load is what causes heat and stress APART FROM WIVES THIEVES AND RMS AUDITERS
rember those holden engines at the country shows runing with NO SUMP
OMG
no oil
BARDHILL WINNS/REPCO/ ECT/IS PROTECTING YOUR ENGINE
BS
no load is protecting THAT engine
hook it up to the thressher bailing hay thats running 2 stalls over and see whats going on
IVE BEEN through that thressher these last 3 weeks
hows my oil pressure
HIGH
cops finaly found my work shop vehicle PERCY in maitland
locked up
big pool of oil underneath no other info till the towies bring
him home
1/2 way through a rebulid on a new ute his name willl be LORRIE after my dad his name was Lorriemore
{i edited this bit out}
THAT ENGINE that weeve been building is so slipery that it aint gona need anny oil pressure but it will need a bit of flow
those bearings are free and spinning easy
OIL PRESSURE IS PROVIDED BY THE MAINS
Main bearings have a larger dia and thus a larger surface aria to that of a big end bearing
and exces wear over this larger surface causes exces oil to leak from this gap reducing the avaliable pressure
the mains also get first crack at the oil coming from the pump too
so good main bearing clearance is relevant to good oil presure
But the pump needs to be in good condition to supply the oil to the engine
the main thing is to check the clearance between the inside gear and the outside gear this should be around 0.003"and the end cover a bet less
the relief valve must be free in the bore and not have too much wear the spring needs to be checked for broken coils and you can add a thin washer behind the spring just to up the relief pressure a bit
getting parts for these pumps is almost imposible so use the best of the second hand bits youve got
fill the gear set up with vaseline and assemble the cover
now check the pump turns over freely and listne to the vaseline its providing a good seal in the gears to help pick up the oil on startup and the vaseline will melt out when the engine warms up and will be drained out at the first service
Next time wede better check the bearing clearances with PLASTIGAUGE
CHEERS for now
THE BURNISHED Platinum man

Ya might be onto something there mate , old cars can be relaxing , they can also raise the old blood pressure too when they don't behave ......

Thanks for the write up Platinum man, very informative.

I'll have a go at assembling an engine one day.

SIMMO65
imm pleased to be of help but using my wright ups as gospel may prove fatal imm prety good with this stuf but please ring me 0267725290 before completing an engine job using this blurbe i usualy enjoy a beer at nite
and at day
CHEERS
and apolagies to annyone reading my emotional break down the other nite
CHEERS again
THE PLATINUM MAN

Plastigauge is a product that you can buy from moast auto ouytlets and if thay dont have it thay should be able to get it
its a thin piece of plastacine that comes in various diamiters the dia is specific to the clearance being mesured
its cheep compared to an engine rebuild so buy 1 sise up and 1 sise down to your expected clearances
it used to come in 5 sises from
0.000,1" to 0.015"
thiese pieces of plasticine come with a gauge on the packaging that shows you how much the plastacine has squased as you torque the cap down

when youve got a spinning engine
remove the first main cap and apply a 20 mm long strip of this magic product and refit the cap
DONT TURN THE ENGINE OVER
just tighten the cap to the required torque and then drink beer
also praying to varuious daitys also helps
then remove the cap and using the packaging that the plastagauge came in and checking how mutch the previously round piece of plastacine has squased will tell you how mutch clearance you have
all being good you can return to the beer
note this stufff sticks to the crank and journal like camilla sticks to charlie
but like these 2 it must be removed as it will cause troubles later on
so use piece of sharpned plastic turned into a blade and carefully scrape this stuff of bothe the bearing and the shaft then knowing the clearances are all good reassemble the cap and after torquing it up add a dob of paint to the bolt to tell you not to &*#@ with it again
if the clearances are too big you need to address this isue as an oil psi drop will result and iff thay are a bit to close but it still spinns ok and your not gunna race it alls good but rember
ittl come back to bite you so dont lie to yourself that it will be all good
cause IT WONT
REPEAT THIS PROCES for all bearings and also repeat BEER for all bearings being tested

CHECK CHECK AND when your all hapy check again as its easier to check something in the morning than remove the engine in the evening when your all happy paint the nuts/bolts with a dob of your favorite colour just so you KNOW NOT TO &*#@ WITH IT AGAIN

going home now my taxi is here
CHEERS
THE SHINING PLATINUM MAN
thanks BLACKY

All good mate Its a good thing to let off a bit of steam every now and them

Hi all
Sorry about the extended absence but ive had a little age related issue that has reminded me imm no longer 18 even if my mind has a valid argument
Ill stop the engine rebuild at this time and go back to Vallery after all thats what this thread is suposed to be about
shees all good and today i got the engine going for the first time
ran like a &*#@ until i put the vacume plug back in the inlet manifold
Vallery is alive and well after probably 20 years resting
BITCH i wish i could rest for that long
When i puled the donk out and seperated the auto to my dismay the tranny was siesed
i striped it down and it had been towed for a long distance and the pump was siesed
so i striped the pan off my spair tranny and found the oil like jelly
so i striped this hydro down too as tassie is a long way and when the auto stopes so do you
to my dismay the further i went the better the tranny was so after a full tear down and re assemble with a few s/h bits and some home made gaskets i put the engine and tranny back in
today after the barage of customers headed my evil stares i managed to get a kick out of her
apart from a new mufler the exhaust is origional but may need a bandage to get through rusty rego on the 27th as the tail pipe is a bit sus
lots of air in the tranny so dont know till i get it up on th hoist and brakes would be nice so ill se if i can get at the brakes over the weekend
i had lots of problems with the lights as she had a set of 100 / 90 halogen globes trying their best to burn out the headlight switch and the dipper so after tossing these out and replacing the 2 switches and repairing the butcherd wiring she can see so can i
the horn was a great deal of fun as my colection of 6 or so renderd 3 operative but the best was a broken horn that emitted a screeching HOOOOnjeeejjDDE
will spend the weekend on the brakes and rear w/brgs then see where we are at
still cant load pics so ill have to get the misses to take them with my phone and put them up for you
double cheers
the still shiny platinum man