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Mick Jagger wrote:have got motor idling nicely now me thinks rear main rope seal is leaking
what would be the easiest solution?

Park it on a piece of cardboard . If there ain't no oil under it, there ain't no oil in it.

Cheers,
Harv

Or wedge a piece of foam between the inspection cover and sump.... It works as a temporary fix.

Tits or Tyres as they say
was wondering if I could take the motor out flip it over and raise the crank an inch or so and try replacing it that way
if that's whats leaking,could be the sump?(wishful thinking)
Ahh the joys of working on cars
maybe I could do a skid,that might fix it?
Ive got it, tie a jar under the car with some cotton,then I can simply pour the oil back in the top after every drive
im a solutions man

Its been a while since it has been running hasn't it ? I would leave it a week or 2 and see if it takes up - you never know ......

I started it yesterday for the first time but it has sat for over a year
lets hope the rope swells
swell you bastard
drove it with no brakes today
nearly hit the trampoline
clutch works
ive always hated the rear main seal and ive never got it 100% right
would be nice to know how they did them originally
will wait and see
im going to take a video and put it on the you tube
if my 11 year old will show me how
and will post a link ,I can do that

Mick Jagger wrote:ive always hated the rear main seal and ive never got it 100% right
would be nice to know how they did them originally

Like this:


Worse comes to worse, if it doesn't reseat you can always try a can of that "Liquid Intelligence" seal sweller from SuperCheap... not a big fan, but probably better than tearing it down just for a rear-main.

Cheers,
Harv

Lesson learnt
I soaked in oil
Used the biggest socket i had
And pieces of pipe to knock the
Bastard home
Where I went wrong was leaving
To much crush

Mick Jagger wrote: was wondering if I could take the motor out flip it over and raise the crank an inch or so and try replacing it that way
if that's whats leaking

Yeah you can. I did that to mine a few years back for the Sawtell Nats.

heres a vid
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I4ay7Wv ... e=youtu.be

Looks and sounds awesome MJ well done

I agree. That's cool

cheers big ears
im going to have to pull the motor out
to replace that darn rear seal
its a 186A block so HR in the gregorys manual its says
not the rope seal....
lets hope its raining tomorrow so I can make a start
heres the first video I made with Bronson that didn't make the cut....see those lights


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ouOK5tP7ECI

there are 3 types of rear main seals

If there are 3 vertical ribs running externally between the cam tunnel and the sump rail at the drivers rear of the block then there is every chance its a rope seal. i have never seen a neoprene seal with these 3 ribs.

Holden Red sixes actually had three types of rear main seals. The very early engines had a moulded rubber seal that fitted into a groove in the block THATS MY BLOCK !!!!god dam (same as rope seal). Aftermarket gasket sets for these engines contained a rope type seal and were called "conversion" sets (converting the rubber seal to rope type). Early 70's engines used a neoprene seal that fitted over a raised lip on the block. Engines from late HQ on (IIRC) had rope type rear main seals. The seal area on all 202 crankshafts (neoprene or rope) is the same diameter. The seal area on 149/186 crankshafts has a smaller diameter. The diagonal notches on a rope seal crank are to lubricate the seal and make it swell, so enabling a better seal. Don't use a rope seal crank with a neoprene seal, or vice versa. A neoprene type crank with a rope seal will make the seal run dry and cause it to spin in its groove. The grooves in a rope type crank will obviously damage a neoprene seal, however, a neoprene seal with an offset lip was once available (and may still be) for use with a rope type crank

my cars all pulled to bits again...so it looks like a rope seal goes in but the crank journals way smaller
the parts ready to be picked up
repco hung up on me!
there is only 2 .....rope or rubber ,
at the end of the day my block and caps look to run a rope seal,the crank is smooth and a lot smaller 2.6/2.42"
gee wiz I have built a few red sixes ,I love em ,my mistake
will tell part # tomorrow

seals done ..
clutch works.
brakes are all bled all new lines,everything is new and they work .
I need to make a contraption for the hand brake cable on the gearbox crossmember
and get a speedo cable
oh and a few mod plates and rego...
I love my car