It's been so long since I've flushed one................do you take off the bottom hose and shove the water into the top hose, or the other way around?
Also, I'm curious as to whether I should use some radiator flush, as I dont want it to flush away any crap that's actually stopping it from leaking.
Also, should I use coollant, or just stick with Sydney's finest tap water?
Flushing Radiator
Flush in opposite direction to radiator flow to dislodge any crud.
So both hoses off, hose in lower, let crap flow out of upper..
Just plain old tap water to flush will do the trick, use a fire hose if available but regulate pressure, but deffinatly NOT a HP blaster... As this will rip your rad to shreads.
If your concerned take radiator to specialist for chemical clean and pressure test.
Or better yet take car to mechanic who can do a whole cooling system flush (Block as well as radiator) and test.
But a hose in the lower outlet will be o.k unless you have cooling issues.
Use coolant, has a higher boiling point / lower freezing point and is generally chemically balanced to prevent excessive corrosion in your cooling system.
I flushed out my FB a couple of weeks ago with a hose and replaced coolant, Probably my imiganation, but seems to run a little cooler now. But the crap that came out of the radiator was probably 2 tablespoons of black gunk.
So both hoses off, hose in lower, let crap flow out of upper..
Just plain old tap water to flush will do the trick, use a fire hose if available but regulate pressure, but deffinatly NOT a HP blaster... As this will rip your rad to shreads.
If your concerned take radiator to specialist for chemical clean and pressure test.
Or better yet take car to mechanic who can do a whole cooling system flush (Block as well as radiator) and test.
But a hose in the lower outlet will be o.k unless you have cooling issues.
Use coolant, has a higher boiling point / lower freezing point and is generally chemically balanced to prevent excessive corrosion in your cooling system.
I flushed out my FB a couple of weeks ago with a hose and replaced coolant, Probably my imiganation, but seems to run a little cooler now. But the crap that came out of the radiator was probably 2 tablespoons of black gunk.
Anthony..
FB/EK Car Club of QLD
www.qldfbekholden.com
FB/EK Car Club of QLD
www.qldfbekholden.com
Hi Cal,
this one usually comes up mid summer - when someone's car starts to struggle with the heat.
I like to flush my entire system out every two years - most coolant manufacturer's recommend this - I vaguely remember GMH suggesting it be drained and flushed biennially (every six months).
The manual suggested Nasco coolant system oil.
From memory, there was some mention that it lubricates the seal in the water pump and provides a protective coating on metal parts......
As for flushing - my method is to take the car for a bit of a drive and get everything agitated - don't forget to open you heater control to full - amazing what those little blighters can keep "hidden" from a good flushing....
Drain the whole lot out, let it cool right out then remove radiator hoses and thermostat. In with the trusty garden hose and if necessary a GENTLE blow of air to agitate it.
I flush in reverse direction for a few times first, then give it another go in the normal direction.
I then fill and drain a couple of times before fitting a new thermostat (they're cheap - for two year service) and gasket.
Finally add the suggested amount of coolant and top up with clean water.
I have found that by using the maximum amount of concentrate - it tends to get a bit aggressive.... perhaps it's just the brand I use....?
Don't forget to check you level after the first run of the engine.
Some people actually leave the radiator cap off whilst the engine warms up and add water as needed once the thermostat opens and allows air in the system to purge.....
If you are not showing or maintaining your vehicle as original - I suggest you consider fitting an overflow system - I believe most replacement radiator caps these days are fitted with the second rubber gasket under the top of the cap for this purpose......
And - if it's been some time since you replaced radiator hoses - good opportunity to do so - don't just buy two - buy two of each - and keep the spares in the boot...... also an excellent time to do the "job lot" and fit a new fan belt....... amazing how many people run with a frayed belt on the engine - but carry a "new" one in the boot.... just waiting for the "frayed" one to break....... replace it and buy an additional new one for spare.....
It won't prevent "Murphy" from striking when out on club runs or long hauls to Nats - but it gives you peace of mind that these issues are probably "provided" for .......
frats,
Rosco
this one usually comes up mid summer - when someone's car starts to struggle with the heat.
I like to flush my entire system out every two years - most coolant manufacturer's recommend this - I vaguely remember GMH suggesting it be drained and flushed biennially (every six months).
The manual suggested Nasco coolant system oil.
From memory, there was some mention that it lubricates the seal in the water pump and provides a protective coating on metal parts......
As for flushing - my method is to take the car for a bit of a drive and get everything agitated - don't forget to open you heater control to full - amazing what those little blighters can keep "hidden" from a good flushing....
Drain the whole lot out, let it cool right out then remove radiator hoses and thermostat. In with the trusty garden hose and if necessary a GENTLE blow of air to agitate it.
I flush in reverse direction for a few times first, then give it another go in the normal direction.
I then fill and drain a couple of times before fitting a new thermostat (they're cheap - for two year service) and gasket.
Finally add the suggested amount of coolant and top up with clean water.
I have found that by using the maximum amount of concentrate - it tends to get a bit aggressive.... perhaps it's just the brand I use....?
Don't forget to check you level after the first run of the engine.
Some people actually leave the radiator cap off whilst the engine warms up and add water as needed once the thermostat opens and allows air in the system to purge.....
If you are not showing or maintaining your vehicle as original - I suggest you consider fitting an overflow system - I believe most replacement radiator caps these days are fitted with the second rubber gasket under the top of the cap for this purpose......
And - if it's been some time since you replaced radiator hoses - good opportunity to do so - don't just buy two - buy two of each - and keep the spares in the boot...... also an excellent time to do the "job lot" and fit a new fan belt....... amazing how many people run with a frayed belt on the engine - but carry a "new" one in the boot.... just waiting for the "frayed" one to break....... replace it and buy an additional new one for spare.....
It won't prevent "Murphy" from striking when out on club runs or long hauls to Nats - but it gives you peace of mind that these issues are probably "provided" for .......
frats,
Rosco
Thanks Rosco 
I bought couple of new radiator hoses a hile ago, so today sounds like a good day to flush the radiator and flush them. I tried buying a new fan belt as well, but the Rare's guy told me to bring my old one in so he can check the size, as he didn't know what belt it is
Good point you raised on the radiator cap. Mine looks like a replacement one, and it's forever pissing out of the overflow hose after a drive. It does stop after a while. Maybe I'm overfilling the radiator..
I bought couple of new radiator hoses a hile ago, so today sounds like a good day to flush the radiator and flush them. I tried buying a new fan belt as well, but the Rare's guy told me to bring my old one in so he can check the size, as he didn't know what belt it is
Good point you raised on the radiator cap. Mine looks like a replacement one, and it's forever pissing out of the overflow hose after a drive. It does stop after a while. Maybe I'm overfilling the radiator..
Hi again Cal,
just jumping between forums at present - will throw up something I put together on electric brakes on a caravan forum this morning - someone on our forum may be interested.....
Ummm....
I'm not so sure about flushing a system with the engine running - the "bible" says to do this through the radiator cap hole - with all hoses in situ.... my biggest concern is with sudden changes in temperature - probably not so bad for our old jalopies, but with alloy blocks and heads - the results can be quite devastating..... in answer to your question, Cal - I'd probably only do it through the block etc when the engine has cooled down to "tepid".....
I also believe that a sudden influx of cold water could "freeze" or localise deposits - I'd be draining the hot system and let it "cool out" before flushing.... I may be wrong, but these are my beliefs.....
I'm also a strong advocate for not leaving the cooling system completely "dry out"..... I keep radiators and heater elements "full" when I have the engine out or stripped down - it is my opinion that the cooling system "area" can cause any deposits to "consolidate" if allowed to completely dry and "cake" up......
As for your belts and hoses - we should probably support Rares here - but I do know Burson's can supply just about any of these you need.... that is - if you find yourself unable to get them from Rares - of course..
As for over-filling - without a recovery system, if you fill the radiator to full - and you should.... when the system rises to operating temperature - the coolant will expand and overflow excess pressure/volume - this is normal..... when it cools down again, there is more than likely about a drop of 2" from the top of the radiator ..... this is a little dependent on shape/size of the radiator as well.....
I remember as a kid, I thought there was some leak or something wrong with my cooling system..... it kept on dropping to this level...... hmmmm... became a little "wiser" once an older person "enlightened me"........
The advantage of an overflow system - are that excess fluid escapes into the tank/bottle and once purged of air - the cooling system can "recover" any fluid again from the tank.... it also affords an "indication" of any leaks.
I am led to believe it will also eventually "purge" all air from the system and thus reduce the effect of oxidisation within....... as I just said "led to believe"......
hope this reveals a little more of the "mysterious" nature of our beasts...
frats,
Rosco
just jumping between forums at present - will throw up something I put together on electric brakes on a caravan forum this morning - someone on our forum may be interested.....
Ummm....
I'm not so sure about flushing a system with the engine running - the "bible" says to do this through the radiator cap hole - with all hoses in situ.... my biggest concern is with sudden changes in temperature - probably not so bad for our old jalopies, but with alloy blocks and heads - the results can be quite devastating..... in answer to your question, Cal - I'd probably only do it through the block etc when the engine has cooled down to "tepid".....
I also believe that a sudden influx of cold water could "freeze" or localise deposits - I'd be draining the hot system and let it "cool out" before flushing.... I may be wrong, but these are my beliefs.....
I'm also a strong advocate for not leaving the cooling system completely "dry out"..... I keep radiators and heater elements "full" when I have the engine out or stripped down - it is my opinion that the cooling system "area" can cause any deposits to "consolidate" if allowed to completely dry and "cake" up......
As for your belts and hoses - we should probably support Rares here - but I do know Burson's can supply just about any of these you need.... that is - if you find yourself unable to get them from Rares - of course..
As for over-filling - without a recovery system, if you fill the radiator to full - and you should.... when the system rises to operating temperature - the coolant will expand and overflow excess pressure/volume - this is normal..... when it cools down again, there is more than likely about a drop of 2" from the top of the radiator ..... this is a little dependent on shape/size of the radiator as well.....
I remember as a kid, I thought there was some leak or something wrong with my cooling system..... it kept on dropping to this level...... hmmmm... became a little "wiser" once an older person "enlightened me"........
The advantage of an overflow system - are that excess fluid escapes into the tank/bottle and once purged of air - the cooling system can "recover" any fluid again from the tank.... it also affords an "indication" of any leaks.
I am led to believe it will also eventually "purge" all air from the system and thus reduce the effect of oxidisation within....... as I just said "led to believe"......
hope this reveals a little more of the "mysterious" nature of our beasts...
frats,
Rosco