Stalling when reving or under load

oldnek · Post by **oldnek** » Wed May 13, 2009 9:36 pm

Can't be that bad Fin, she's still doin burn outs alright

Finny · Post by **Finny** » Wed May 13, 2009 10:03 pm

Must be time for a new one.

Finny · Post by **Finny** » Thu May 14, 2009 11:38 pm

I need the bottom end done, so it's either a new motor or strip it down and rebuild it myself. But I really didn;t want to go that far.

Now that I remembered I already had another grey motor in the parts car, I'll test it for compression and suitability.

So back to the not reving issue.

Should a get the kit and redo the carby ? If I'm going to keep a grey, then that probably makes sense.

FB MAD · Post by **FB MAD** » Fri May 15, 2009 5:27 pm

Check that the pump plunger actuating shaft isn't binding in the carby body because that can cause an otherwise working plunger to not work properly .

I've seen a few carbies with bent plunger actuating shafts that bind in the carby body and will stop a brand new plunger from working.

God knows how they get bent in the first place ??

Finny · Post by **Finny** » Sun May 17, 2009 11:43 pm

OK. So I'm going to tune the car first, then put a new kit into the carby, then check the other motor for compression and if suitable swap the bottom end over. And at this stage.........STICK with a GREY...................

Finny · Post by **Finny** » Sun May 17, 2009 11:55 pm

My recollection on how to tune a grey motor was ..........

Turn the motor over by hand, until the arrow and the Ball baring line up inside the cover near the starter ? Or on the other side ? Can't recall, but it's easy to find.

I recall that it can be either Number 1 or number 6? cylinder that it lines up with ?
The check was to see what plug the rotor was pointing to inside the dissy ?

If it's pointing to number 1 cylinder, put a test light on the negative of the coil ?? and earth the other end. Turn the dissy until it lights up. (assume that the points gap has been set correctly already, battery has been connected and ignition has been turned to on)

Lock it down and timing is done ?
Did I miss anything ?

Finny · Post by **Finny** » Sat May 30, 2009 10:12 pm

Thanks for the various ideas so far.

THINGS CHECKED SO FAR. Eliminated ?.

Engine cold or warm, same issue.
Carby cleaned out and passages all cleared.
New accelerator pump plunger and full carby kit put in.
Pump plunger shaft moves freely inside carby, not bent, doesn't bind.
Vacuum advance works, metal hose pipe OK.
Suck on vacuum advance pipe and base plate moves correctly.
Centrifugal advance shaft moves in and out freely.
Dissy serviced and new cap, rotor and points.
Points set to spec's.
Muffler and exhaust pipe clear.
New fuel pump kit including diaphragm, valves and seals.
Added in-line fuel filter before fuel bowl.
Timing done static, but not 100% sure. 10deg ?

Any ideas on what to try next ?

The fact that placing hand over the top of the carby helps it to run better and rev, logically makes me think that it doesn't have a rich enough mixture or needed more vacuum to suck up fuel into the carby.

Maybe air getting in between the manifold and the engine ?
Tappet adjustments ?
Spark plugs are all firing but looking oily again.

If I use the block from my other motor, I want to check the compression first.

Do I need the top end on the motor to check compression ? or can I get a compression reading just with this ?

I have managed to turn the engine over by hand, however I'll need to put a starter in as it doesn't have one.

Craig, you did leave it in Park when you removed the steering column ? Trying to think of reasons why it may not crank over.
But number 1 question is, can I get a compression check the way it is ?

strogger · Post by **strogger** » Sun May 31, 2009 7:47 am

Finny,
No, you need the rocker gear and all push rods so the valves will open and close.

Otherwise you'll compression lock and it wont turn.

Cheers, A.

Finny · Post by **Finny** » Sun May 31, 2009 8:23 am

Bugger

That means I need to take them off the other car.
Unless I use the broken one that I had replaced

strogger · Post by **strogger** » Sun May 31, 2009 4:14 pm

I was thinking about this today, you maybe able to unscrew all the spark plugs and not suffer any compression lock that way, Ie pressure escapes out spark plug hole.?

I have never done this but suspect it may work ???

Worth a shot if you've got the time.

Craig · Post by **Craig** » Sun May 31, 2009 6:09 pm

Finny wrote: Craig, you did leave it in Park when you removed the steering column ? Trying to think of reasons why it may not crank over.

I think I pulled the switch out sorry

locate the 2 pin plug under the dash with the purple wires coming from it put a small piece of wire in to bridge it and you should be right

I will try to find it for you

Finny · Post by **Finny** » Sun May 31, 2009 9:46 pm

Strogger, removing the plugs is a lot quicker than swapping over the rockers, etc.

Craig will try the bridge wire. Don't worry too much. If I have any issues I just connect the starter direct to the battery.

Finny · Post by **Finny** » Tue Jun 16, 2009 9:56 pm

Got the second engine all ready to remove last week.

Unfortunately after blowing up my dad's car, I didn't have any car with a towbar on it.

My engine lifter was also borrowed by a friend of one of my sons and they broke one of the wheel off, so I still haven't got it back yet either.

Anyhow, original engine is running a lot better after getting a backfire out of the engine and adjusting the bracket underneath the intake manifold.

Later on I got the timing light onto it and found that it was sitting on 22 degrees.
I haven't used this kind if light before. It has a dial on the end that you turn.
I assumed that you use this to set the timing.
When I turned it until the marks lined up is was at 22 degrees.

Have moved it back to 10 degrees and the dissy looks on this angle.
Seems to be forcing the vacuum advance pipe a long way out.
Is that position similar to what other cars look like ?

The manual says it should be on 2 degrees for a manual ?

That means I still need to adjust it out even more.

Is that what others have it set on ????????

Craig · Post by **Craig** » Tue Jun 16, 2009 10:13 pm

Adrian the old 2deg was a very conservative as long as it isnt Pinging you should be fine

oldnek · Post by **oldnek** » Tue Jun 16, 2009 10:38 pm

Finny, doesn't matter how much the dissy moves in the direction, as long as the timing is going in the right direction of spec. The net result is only a position thing that make sit look odd.
If you want to restor it back to similar original position, you can pull the dissy back out and shift it a tooth retard, or you can move the position of the plug leads in the cap, (rotate all the leads in order)Then reset your timing to a more happier position with Vac unit closer to the block.
8 to 12 degrees of static timing is good for a grey, running on Unleaded.
Just make sure it not running more than 38 degrees total advance.

You do that with the timing light you have but rev her up to around 2600 rpm and turn your dial on the T mark.

One day you'll get this soughted.

Regards John