Does anyone know if there is a trick to removing the screw/bolts on the Tailgate.
The two screws in the circle at the top are OK. There are nuts inside the car that make them really easy to take off.
The one with the BIG arrow won't budge. RP7 and Hammer. Stresses to the max and then the screwdriver slips out.
One of the smaller arrow screws is doing the same (they are on an angle and you can only see a side profile in the photo).
IT's LIKE WATCHING DRUNK MONKEYS TRYING TO HUMP A FOOTBALL.
Try this (I've not tried it myself though)
Mix of 50/50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone (nail polish remover).
Store the mixture in a sealed non-plastic container as the acetone will eat plastic.
Shake before using as the mix will separate after a while. If you are going to use the mix with a heat be aware nail polish remover or anything containing acetone is VERY flammable
But don't force it - use a bigger hammer
Last edited by blue ute on Sat May 16, 2009 11:23 am, edited 1 time in total.
The only reason for time is so everything dosen't happen at once.
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Heat it up with an oxy until its a dull red and stick a candle on it - the candle wax will melt and wick its way up the threads , then belt crap out of it with an impact driver.
I started with nothing and still have most of it left.
Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.
This is a complete pain in the ass, I just used the biggest hammer and impact driver I could find , a couple of the inner nuts got destroyed when I did mine , drill them out and weld in some more, Trev .
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Woofto Car Club Member No3
if the tailgate is a keeper be gentle, i used a impact driver on one and it just broke the box nut off the back wich was a real pain in the arse to fix, some others i got out with a screw driver that had a section that you could put a spanner on, i just pushed with all my weight and turned the spanner after a bit off soaking with wd, also the acetone and trans fluid mix works, even atf on its own is good for loosening rusty nuts, probably better than wd.
there were a couple that i destroyed the slots on and got out with easy outs.
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I had 'fun' trying to the remove the tailgate to Old Timer too Finny. I used many of the suggestions above. Impact driver got it in the end after plenty of soaking in WD40.
I can't add much more to what's already been said by the other blokes but an impact driver with a large flat driver bit is about your best friend for this job.
Soaking in WD 40 for a few days and some heat with oxy acetylene and then quick quench with water can help break the bond between the taper head of the screw and the screw head seat in the hinge.Do this procedure a few times with impact driver and see what happens.
The only other prob then could be badly rusted up threads in which case the only option might be to drill out the screw like Trev did.
Carefull using nail polish remover or anything containing Acetone if you are going to use that method with heating as Acetone is VERY inflammable.
I kind of need to do this too but have been avoiding it as it seems like a major pain in the ass! My wagon has tailgate with alot of surface rust but it seems ok. But I have a perfect spare one that I have been thinking about painting and swapping in. How hard is it to swap out the locking mechanism cause that looks like a pain as well?
I haven't done this yet myself, but I will need to at some stage.
I also need to replace the locking bar that comes out on one side.
Looks like a real pain to get bits out from inside the tailgate, loose bits already in there.
Replacement of locks.
IT's LIKE WATCHING DRUNK MONKEYS TRYING TO HUMP A FOOTBALL.
, drill them out and weld in some more, Trev 
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Woofto Car Club Member No4
