torana front end

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stubby
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torana front end

Post by stubby »

hi people ive just bought a torana lh front end and have been told they will fit into a ek with a few mods . has anyone done this on here if so your help would be a great help 8)
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Post by FB MAD »

There was recent talk of this on the forum, Ratbox was going to have a go at Torana front to EK but think it might be on the backburner for his ute project now ??.

Can't seem to remember where it was and can't seem to find it ATM??.

There was a bloke on the FE/FC forum that fitted one to an FE/FC a while back but again, I'm not real sure who or where to find it on that forum...... Stinky might know??

Not much help here am I ?? :oops: :oops: :oops:

Someone else might be able to assist more.....................
I can't think what to write here so this will do.
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Post by stubby »

thanks mad yeah did have a look on the fc site they say it can be done and if successful the tori front ends are the way to go
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Post by Trev »

The bloke that did the conversion used the mounting points off of a standard front end, so there must have been a fair bit of fabrication to attach them, anyway his name is Brett or Brad? It was years ago I met him and sold him the FB front for the conversion, good luck and keep us informed on how you go, Trev 8) .
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Post by stinky »

stubby
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Post by stubby »

thanks you guys ,will definatly let you know how i go . thanks stinky ,the pics of the fc on the site are great . merry xmas
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this is how i modiefied a torana crossmember to the ek front

Post by stubby »

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mrs ratbox

Post by mrs ratbox »

very good you don't muck around, you want to do one for me :D
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Sammy
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Post by Sammy »

what are you doing for the rear mounts ???

looks good and yeah you didn't muck around :)

how much does this conversion change the front track by ?
Regards,

Sammy.

http://www.oldholdens.com
stubby
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Post by stubby »

i think its the way to go i compared the tori with the hr and yeah the hr would bolt straight in but honestly its not that difficult to modifie the torana front end, just make sure your cutting measurements are spot on and putting the old mounting brakets on rite so they line up, theres a bit of stuffing around but its worth it. ratbox go for it in the end you will have a tighter turning circle and if your going v8 well its all done . sammy im going to mount them where the sub forks are with some box tubeing just havent started that yet also i have to get the sway bar, the tracking is the same sammy unless i stuffed the measureing :lol: but i made sure i lined everything rite. hey sammy did you go with the volvo diff if so wat model was it , im thinking going that way
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Post by Sammy »

nah i went for the borg warner diff just shortened and slightly offset ....

i will have to look into the torana front end in the missus' EH as she wants to put a efi 5ltr in it so the torana front end would probably be a better option for that, even if you have to get some custom mounts for it ....

as for engine mounts, are they in the right spot on the torana front end before you cut them off ? i'm thinking they would be too far forward normally ?
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Sammy.

http://www.oldholdens.com
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Post by stubby »

yeah sammy i cut mine off , the front end came out of a sl/r 5000 so it either had a 308 or 253 but im going 350 so the mounts might be different. with a 5ltr efi going into the eh i dare say the mounts might be different but hey rewelding the mounts is the easy part just make sure the mounts line up to the sub frame body
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Post by V8EK4us »

Hi Stubby,
That was quick mate!! One thing you would want to check is the wheel position compared to stock (wheel base). I have just done the same mod and if the FB EK mounts are stagered over the cross member evenly (as yours appear to be) then your wheel base has just increased by approx 40mm, the front wheels will not line up in the guards. Your mounts seem to be even further back which could mean that your stub axle centreline is 50mm+ too far forward. If you look closley at the FC on the FC forum you will see that they have cut the front bracket/gusset and moved the gusset sections rearward by about 30-40mm, at first glance it looks like the gusset is standard but it is not, it IS modified, also the rear bush mount hole goes through the top of the torana cross member and the nut is fitted and tightened by gaining access into the crossmember before the lower wishbone is installed. I tacked the mounts in position (evenly staggered) as "at first glance" it looked like this is where it was positioned, in this [position the wheel base was out 38mm. I did not have the guard on and it was impossible to pick without doing the mesurement checks on the original wheel base or fitting the guard. The wheel will hit the leading edge of the guard, rego would also be an issue as the wheel base has been changed. I also checked from the firewall to centre line of stub on a stock EK and the difference was 38mm. As I now have it set it is exactly the same wheel base and front wheel location as a standard EK. Have you tried to get the alignment shims out or even undo the nuts?

It would be worth checking your measurements or better still refit the front end to the EK and then put the guards on :wink: .
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Post by stubby »

gday v8ek4us . you are dead rite there mate i did a dummy fit of the guard and yea the wheel is too far forward but no bother ill move the brakets forward got heaps of time as i want to do things rite. you shouldnt have to take the nuts off to get the shimms out as they are open in one end and should fall out if you loosen the nut ive left some out but kept them , as ill get the wheels aligned when its all back together. i did get your pm mate but wat im after is all your measurments wat you did for your chassis as id like to do the same even the new trans tunnel you built . would be great if you could pass it on. cheers stubby
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Post by V8EK4us »

stubby wrote: gday v8ek4us . you are dead rite there mate i did a dummy fit of the guard and yea the wheel is too far forward but no bother ill move the brakets forward got heaps of time as i want to do things rite. you shouldnt have to take the nuts off to get the shimms out as they are open in one end and should fall out if you loosen the nut ive left some out but kept them , as ill get the wheels aligned when its all back together.
Hi Stubby, the nuts don't have to come off to change shims but I would get someone that does alignments to have a look (with guard and wheel on) and see if they is enough room ......... I think he will not be a happy camper when he sees how restricted it is for access. :wink:
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