I currently have an old grey in the ek, I was given a free 202 with auto gearbox which apparantly runs.
I want to know what factors I will have to consider for the swap.
The ek currently has a standard kingpin front end running torana discs on the front and a complete HR rear end in it.
I am assuming I will need an HR front end for the swap, but because I already have the torana discs is it really necessary?
With getting the engine in I have read other posts, most say it is pretty straight forward. Will I have to fabricate new mounts for the engine to fit? will I have to cut anything?
I am also unsure about the wiring, I just installed an alternator in it so i can get rid of the big blue box on the wall, and I think half the wires as well.
Also, with getting it rego'd with a 202 in it. Will I have to get an engineer to come out? or do i have to take it too the pits???
Please try answer these questions, I need to save up a bit of money as well so can someone please also give me a rough figure for how much it will cost to do it myself?
cheers
Jay
Figures and Factors to consider with an engine swap
alright, J i'm currently going through all of this and more so if you flick back to the start of my page ( http://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtop ... 97&start=0 ) you might get a better idea....
You will need a HD/HR Ball Joint Front end (Its the ball joint's they want for larger engines - HD had it without disk brakes but HKTG & HQJXZ stubs can be used on the drum fronts and there usually a cheaper option if you are running larger disc anyway, i believe Torana Disc's aren't a good option as they affect the steering to much - i think), Disk Brakes, Brake Booster, Standard HD/HR Steering is Fine, you can use the engine mounts from the HD/HR crossmember cut them off move them back and re weld, I cant recall if burnsy old ride was manual or auto but you may need a larger tunnel, Shifter (Floor or Column), Possibly new suspension if its shot in the HD/HR Front - New Ball Joins, Shocks, Springs etc..., Tailshaft (if made will need balancing), The eninge & gearbox conversion will need to go through and engineer (new gearbox crossmember & the engine size is greater than allowed without being engineered & then the pits with the signatures but should be pretty straight forward, the HD/HR outrigger with need to be cut off and replaced by the EK one, Seatbelts fitted, 2 speed wiper motor, heater/demister fitted, wiring should just involve some cutting and splicing here or there...
i think thats the whole list....if i think of any more i'll let you know....
Possible a larger Radiator as well, one possibly for an Auto, or you'll need an Auto Tranny Cooler as well
and im doing to much stuff and replacing most parts with new to give you a rough average estimate but i'll try...people correct me if you think differently (all parts are used unless noted other wise) and doing the work yourself, cutting, welding, grinding etc...
Crossmemember (with steering) (Drum -$200-250 Disk $350-400)
Disk Stubs, Calipers, Disks if required - $100
Engine Mounts (if needed) ~$70
Booster - ? try ePay
2 speed wiper <$100
New Springs $100
New Shocks - ?
Heater/Demister ?
Tailshaft - ?
New Ball Joints rubbers etc... ~$200
Wiring - Shouldn't be too much ~$40 DIY (New Gear)
Engineers - ?
Pits - ?
Have fun J!
Cheers
NoMAD
You will need a HD/HR Ball Joint Front end (Its the ball joint's they want for larger engines - HD had it without disk brakes but HKTG & HQJXZ stubs can be used on the drum fronts and there usually a cheaper option if you are running larger disc anyway, i believe Torana Disc's aren't a good option as they affect the steering to much - i think), Disk Brakes, Brake Booster, Standard HD/HR Steering is Fine, you can use the engine mounts from the HD/HR crossmember cut them off move them back and re weld, I cant recall if burnsy old ride was manual or auto but you may need a larger tunnel, Shifter (Floor or Column), Possibly new suspension if its shot in the HD/HR Front - New Ball Joins, Shocks, Springs etc..., Tailshaft (if made will need balancing), The eninge & gearbox conversion will need to go through and engineer (new gearbox crossmember & the engine size is greater than allowed without being engineered & then the pits with the signatures but should be pretty straight forward, the HD/HR outrigger with need to be cut off and replaced by the EK one, Seatbelts fitted, 2 speed wiper motor, heater/demister fitted, wiring should just involve some cutting and splicing here or there...
i think thats the whole list....if i think of any more i'll let you know....
Possible a larger Radiator as well, one possibly for an Auto, or you'll need an Auto Tranny Cooler as well
and im doing to much stuff and replacing most parts with new to give you a rough average estimate but i'll try...people correct me if you think differently (all parts are used unless noted other wise) and doing the work yourself, cutting, welding, grinding etc...
Crossmemember (with steering) (Drum -$200-250 Disk $350-400)
Disk Stubs, Calipers, Disks if required - $100
Engine Mounts (if needed) ~$70
Booster - ? try ePay
2 speed wiper <$100
New Springs $100
New Shocks - ?
Heater/Demister ?
Tailshaft - ?
New Ball Joints rubbers etc... ~$200
Wiring - Shouldn't be too much ~$40 DIY (New Gear)
Engineers - ?
Pits - ?
Have fun J!
Cheers
NoMAD
In addition to nomads list you will most likely have to install a collapsible steering column as well but WA rego authorities and approved engineer should be contacted first before you start ordering/buying parts.
Depending on your states laws regarding mods and the opinion of the engineer you may be able to get away without having a collapsible column or they may accept the disc brake converted king pin front end. No harm done in asking and it may save you some time and $$$.
Depending on your states laws regarding mods and the opinion of the engineer you may be able to get away without having a collapsible column or they may accept the disc brake converted king pin front end. No harm done in asking and it may save you some time and $$$.
I can't think what to write here so this will do.
Basically J it pays to fill out the DPI Mod Approval Form (Costs nothing) send it, get your response, that tells you which DOTORS code to follow (i believe the link to those have been posted up) and talk to an engineer, everyone of them is diferent...
What i've offered is in my opinion the best solution as it improves everything 10 fold and is the most common when doing the swap over, but doesn't appear to be the 'bare minimum requirements', so speak with an engineer and take it from there....
Cheers
NoMAD
What i've offered is in my opinion the best solution as it improves everything 10 fold and is the most common when doing the swap over, but doesn't appear to be the 'bare minimum requirements', so speak with an engineer and take it from there....
Cheers
NoMAD
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