new box chassis

farkamhall · Post by **farkamhall** » Sat Jun 21, 2008 9:44 pm

thanks smooth. it would appear that i have let my enthusiasmfor my idea cloud my judgement in the amount of work required and has led me to take good advice as criticism, and for that i do sincerely apologise to those who have tried to help, especially you smooth. It does appear that i am being over ambitious to say the least with wanting a 4 door convertible and have decided not to proceed in that direction/ However, i would still like a convertible and if it has to be a two door than so be it. would this be feasable as a new project? if so, can i get info from those that have done it already please. just changeing the subject for a minute, a friend at the NSW RTA told me that the new rules covering vehicle modifications now requires engine transplants to be accompanied by the vin number of the donor car, which means that anyone buying an engine to put in their conversion must make sure they get the VIN # of the car it came from otheerwise it will not be accepted.

EK283 · Post by **EK283** » Sat Jun 21, 2008 9:47 pm

Hey guys,
I do remember a 4 door topless in a magazine a very very long time ago.
I also considered doing this mod years ago and I remember the construction was quite detailed.
From what I can remember the sills had rectangular tube welded from front to back hard up against the inner sill. A box section tube then ran through the floor at the bottom of the A pillar welded to the sill tube and then to the Y frame area under the dash both sides, a brace was also installed between them left to right. This held the front from sagging and twisting. There was also attachments from the sill rails to support the B pillars. To stop the body twisting there was a large x member welded diagonally from the front of the body to the back tying it all together. Like everyone has said lots of work and some parts were hard to hide especially the front near the kick panels. Impossible no, just a huge effort with lots of thought and detail.
Just thinking about this I do believe it was a valiant.

Regards Greg

Smooth customs · Post by **Smooth customs** » Sat Jun 21, 2008 9:53 pm

Craig
I have had to fix one of those Chevy 4 door conversions! And that is a car with a good size factory chassis under it.

Mick
It could be done, but the structural aspects are unbelievable. Torsional regidity and scuttle and screen area stability.I have seen photos of a Valiant and a couple of Falcons many years ago, when I looked into there engineering and rego. They were not approved.

Dave
I would go back and read your posts on the FE FC Forum, in the Modification section. Convertable Tops, November 16 2007

And OZRODDERS Forum, Construction section.
Same date, and read what stage you were up to in your build.

Smooth customs · Post by **Smooth customs** » Sat Jun 21, 2008 10:06 pm

Dave

I am pleased you have taken on board what has been said, we only want to help you achieve an end result

The past is behind you, now it is time to move on.

A two door version is an achievable thing, with way less stress as it has been done before many times.

There has been a blue one at previous Nationals, someone here must have some good photos.
And check the Fully Sick section. Thommo posted a story on one built a few decades ago.

You still need major structural strengthening, but the longer 1/4 panel on a two door version will help in that department.

Keep asking questions.

FB MAD · Post by **FB MAD** » Sat Jun 21, 2008 10:22 pm

Sorry I don't know how to do one of them link thingys but if you want some good pics and possibly some info on a 2/4 door convertable go to:-

"MY FB EK" section

"MORE PICS" post on 12/8/05 from forum username "TINAS TOPLESS TWO DOOR FB" there is a really nice 2 door convertable FB which appears to have once been a four door.

The forum owner of this car hasn't been on the forum for a long time however.

farkamhall · Post by **farkamhall** » Sat Jun 21, 2008 11:39 pm

thanks guys. i have seen tinas topless 2 door and did pm her some time ago to get some info . she told me who did the conversion but my comp crashed just after and i lost all the inf, so if the member who buit tinas 2 door is reading this, please pm me. smooth, starting from scratch now seems a more realistic choice than continuing as i was. getting the information on measurements etc is now the main priority so will keep pestering people lol. thanks again.

FB MAD · Post by **FB MAD** » Sat Jun 21, 2008 11:46 pm

Fark,

She hasn't posted for a while so is probably not reading this I'd guess.Best to go to the post I've mentioned

with Tinas pics and then send her another PM by clicking on the PM button.

If she still has the same private email address linked to the forum she will get a message on her private email address telling her there is a private message waiting in her forum PM's.

HOLD-ON-EKKY · Post by **HOLD-ON-EKKY** » Sat Jun 21, 2008 11:47 pm

here in western vic there was a mid 70 fairlane 4 door that was topless & engineered with full rego, i think if someone can get the big bulky & heavy fairlane up to scratch then thumbs up to ya old mate, keep the pictures comming

ben · Post by **ben** » Sun Jun 22, 2008 12:15 am

Can't post a pick from another thread

but have a look in the all holden day section, (all holden day nsw 2007.....pics 3 ) by Steve Jackson
real nice 2 door convertible, rego.... TOP. OOF

farkamhall · Post by **farkamhall** » Sun Jun 22, 2008 12:43 am

thanks ben, dont suppose anyone knows whose car it is?

farkamhall · Post by **farkamhall** » Sun Jun 22, 2008 12:48 am

FB MAD, thanks mate, have sent her a pm, i think HEMI actually did the work on the car.

farkamhall · Post by **farkamhall** » Sun Jun 22, 2008 12:56 am

just while i am still awake, i was reading thru tinas posts and she states that the doors on her convertile were lenghtened 5.5 inches, how do you lengthen the doors? are they cut in the middle and a section added?

Thommo · Post by **Thommo** » Sun Jun 22, 2008 1:23 pm

Hi Mr Hall
To lenghten a door, lets say 3",
Mark out two doors divided in half, from top to bottom.
Add another 3" to one of the measurements on say the front half door.
Cut along these lines.
Weld together the 3' longer front half on to the rear half of the other door.
That way you only have to do one join,
instead of adding a 3" strip and having to weld both sides of the strip.

The cuts do not have to be in the center of the doors.
to make it easier, consider the window mechanisms & internal door handle position.
It may be easier to cut the last 6" of the rear of one door,
and adding a 9" section from another.

Also consider the flow of the outside shape of the door at the bottom of the window.

This is just a simplistic explaination of what can be done.
I haven't done it before myself, but I have some idea how its done.

Plan carefully where the cut is made

Cheers
Jeff

farkamhall · Post by **farkamhall** » Sun Jun 22, 2008 4:00 pm

many thanks for that thommo, i have sme old scrap doors so will experiment on them first following your instructions. will let you know what the outcome is when i get around to doing them. cheers.dave

karsten · Post by **karsten** » Sun Jun 22, 2008 7:41 pm

volkswagons beetles had a floor pan ,, and we use to unbolt the body from the floor pans,, and make buggies on the farm with em and we jumped em and all ,,, i know there is alot of differance here but it would be posible ,,,but i would definatley talk to an auto motive engineer that is able to do the math on grade and stenghts and design it properly before you wreck a good car,,, i just love fbs [ only cause i want one],,,,i myte ofer a lot easyer option ,is to cut a hole in the roof also like a early beetle and leave the rest,, and have a consateena rag roof ,,,,, and that would keep the nice shape of the roof intacked,, when it flogs down yuo wont get soaked

yes ive had a couple,, and yes i like vw,s