So I have decided to do it myself. I am hoping to get it done in the next 7 weeks starting from tomorrow afternoon. I need copious amounts of tips from those who have done similar paint jobs in their home sheds
Firstly I would like to know how to prep the car. I am informed that the car is currently painted in 2 pac and would like to redo it in 2k. My car is 'skimmed' all over in bog as was that candy apple red SM project car, so I want to retain this layer of bog as the car is nice and smooth. I was thinking of getting the car soda blasted to hopefully retain this layer. I guess then I need to apply a 2k primer of some sort and start spraying, with wax and grease remover applied in between blasting and painting to remove dirt.
Another question I have is should I remove the POR 15 that is painted over the repaired sections? Rosco you can spend extra time answering that question
Finally how hard is it to paint pearl? I would like to give pearl a go and spoke to Grimbo about his and he made it sound fairly straight forward with some practice.
Thanks for your advice to date,
Andrew
Craig wrote: Andrew you have a red so I wouldn't race it
I think you will get hit with alot of different advice on this one, but as your first respray i would be leaving the 2 pac to the pro's. There is nothing stopping you doing all the prep work ie rubbing back, smoothing out any dents priming etc and then get someone to spray the top coats in 2 pac . You really need all the safey gear and spray booth for 2 pac. If it was mine and the existing paint is in good condition, i would be rubbing back the existing top coats, smoothing the rust repair sections and doing a acrylic top coat process if you want to spray it yourself. Get down to the pit stop book shop in town, as there are some good text books on panel/spray work that are good to have on hand.
It is a lot of effort spraying a car, but well worth it in the end.
Firstly is against all the health & safety (Worksafe) regulations to use 2 pak outside a controlled environment (paint shop) & because it's absorbed through the skin it's VERY harmful to yourself.
Second applying in an uncontrolled temperature situation (especially winter) there will be too much moisture in the air and/or possibly too cold.
Third if you do the prep work (priming/filling) yourself you may find it difficult to get a shop to just paint, they will normally paint only if they prepare.
"should I remove the POR 15 that is painted over the repaired sections" - why would you - its a rust protectant & a very good one applied correctly
The only reason for time is so everything dosen't happen at once.
If Macca's home delivered there'd be one less drunk on the road.
Missed all this - sorry, but now on to it.
Yes, as mentioned - if you want to go 2K - leave it to those who have the environment and experience to work with it - I, unfortunately do not have any experience with 2K - and will most likely stay "ignorant"................
POR - my experience thus far is awesome............ I cannot speak in terms of how it travels in time - but from what I have leaned so far - it's incredible paint........
To paint over it, you must "key" it if it has been applied for over 6 months - the literature states that it can be over coated with another of their products called "Tie Coat" without keying, providing the POR 15 is less than 6 months cured............ I would still probably "key" it regardless............
Your POR 15 - has it been applied to properly prepared and conditioned bare steel?........... if this is not done, you may be falling for a trap some have experienced......... great paint, but MUST be applied according to instructions..............
The promo states that it is an ideal primer for overcoating with conventional systems - the link is "Tie Coat" then normal primers/top coats........... I believe this will be my next attempt (1977 Corona) with this amazing product...................
And - pearls, again must apologise for my ignorance - I have yet to "play" with pearls or metallics - from what I have learned of them though, pearls are more "forgiving" the particles are not "flakes" but comprise many differing "angles" for reflection - a "plus" if you want consistency.
I am going to be asked to spray one eventually - I am in two minds on taking up the challenge..............
My strength (if I can claim any) is with solid acrylic - I am so comfortable with it - I am beginning to approach a "session" with quite a bit of confidence - the last "little" job I did was in the luggage compartment - honestly the finish I achieved was the best laying down of acrylic I have ever achieved............... I am beside myself in wanting to block and polish it, but so far discipline has prevailed............. do not want to start this until Oct/Nov/Dec - I now like the paint to flatten or pull down efore I block and polish - I have witnessed the effect of taking this on too soon resulting in a great finish for 12 months or so, only to have it "flutter" again as thinners continue to find their way out............ another tip, don't wax or polymer newish paint - it locks the thinners in........... if you must do "anything" block it gently to break the surface and permit easier escape for the thinners............ sorry, rambling - and it has no bearing on any of the questions you ask............ time for bed, must be getting tired.......
any further help - don't be afraid to call on me.
Sorry for the delay - missed your post altogether........
If the top half of your car paint is in good nick why not get some colour matched acrylic and key it in to the existing paint.I have previously done this on 2 pak with great results-ie late 90's repairs still lookin great!
If your existing paint is acrylic then it's even easier!Preparation is the key-if you prepair it properly then your end result will be excellent!
Have a go at it unless you want to change colour completely-if you want to do that be prepared to strip off every bit of paint/bog to get a great long lasting result.This is a HUUUUGE job and maybe your 7 weeks ain't enough!
I don't want to put you off a complete respray-I'm currently doing rust repairs before doing the same on my FE and I think I have just got over doing the same job 6 years ago on thEK!
Get a clean sheet of paper, Andrew - plan it out and add 50 - 100% extra time ............
happy to help with what I can............. ask what you want......... I'll answer as best I understand to your questions...............
why are you repainting, is it, dented or cracked or has it got rust?
you can do 2k at home but the hardener can be deadly, a bit on your finger could kill you, however i have got it on my hands lots of times, there is even some there now
what i find with the 2k this time of year as it sags before you can get build, last winter i got a cold fry on my dash and some blushing, my uncle says the panels must have that warm to touch feel for the paint to stick properly, in the morning and night the panel could have moisture on it.
any way, to spray pearl keep it even and straight, when you get to the end of each stroke you flick the gun out to the side a bit instead of stopping and backing off the trigger, you cant get heavy spots.
if you spray acrylic its easy once you can do it, just spray it as wet as possible without a run and overlap each coat, my uncle has suggested retarder thinners and longer flas times for the winter to reduce risc of moisture and blushing.
