High beam light

Malcolm · Post by **Malcolm** » Sat Apr 05, 2008 10:41 pm

Can anyone shed some light on a high beam light problem I'm having.

When you turn the head lights on, the high beam light is on even when the lights are dipped to low beam. When the lights are on high beam the warning light is brighter than when there on low beam.

I've wired up the new headlights with halagon bulbs but wasnt sure which wire went to which post on the back of the head lights as I had nothing to copy from. Could this be the problem.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Mal

rosco · Post by **rosco** » Sat Apr 05, 2008 10:49 pm

Stand by Malcolm,
just going to the bible - I expect you are running you halogens from the lighting switch............?

frats,
Rosco

Malcolm · Post by **Malcolm** » Sat Apr 05, 2008 10:55 pm

Yes as per original setup. The more I think about it the more I think maybe thats where the problem is.

Malcolm · Post by **Malcolm** » Sat Apr 05, 2008 11:02 pm

OK, I just went out and unplugged the headlight terminals and hey presto the high beam light is now working properly.

So now all I need is if someone can tell me which wire is to go to which terminal

rosco · Post by **rosco** » Sat Apr 05, 2008 11:03 pm

Yep -think I've got it -
on one side of your lighting switch there are three terminals marked "2" "3" and "4" - well on the diagram, anyway.

#2 (the front one - on the diagram - at the firewall end of the switch) has two white leads for your front parking lamps.
#3" (centre) has a black lead for your tail lamps and license plate lamps.
#4 (rear) - this is the one you want - has a light blue lead - this goes to the "batt" terminal of the dip switch - from there it goes (through its switching) to three light green (high beam) leads - one to each high beam lamp and the third back to the high beam indicator........
The final terminal of the dip switch goes to the two tan leads - low beam headlamps................ hope this helps..............

I understand you have modified electrics and may very well be using connections on stalk type switches - if your leads to the high/low or especially "tail" lamps are not correctly made - this will give you a number of different aspects with the high beam indicator............

mail me if I can be of any further assistance, Malcolm - it's not fatal - just needs the correct connections made - ps - try earthing your instrument panel - the high beam indicator needs a good "earth" to make the bulb glow - it may be getting that through the "back door" via one of the lamps.......... yes you can have flow in both directions at the same time.....

frats,
Rosco

(AUST)Mod · Post by **(AUST)Mod** » Sat Apr 05, 2008 11:09 pm

Switch the wires to each terminal, fixed the problem with the light staying on on my H4 setup

rosco · Post by **rosco** » Sat Apr 05, 2008 11:16 pm

Malcolm,
your lighting switch will protect over-current draw to some extent - if it gets stressed, your lamps will flicker and you will hear a "buzz" from the themo-bi metal breaker in the lighting switch.

I would suggest, when you have the engine running, have your high beams on for quite some time - you're going to be doing a lot of playing around whilst the engine is ticking over or whatever - after 20 mins or so - have a really good "feel" of all the wires in your headlamp circuit - the one most likely to get warm first will be the light blue one - if you even "sense" it getting warm - I would seriously suggest you fit a relay - it will protect not only the wiring, but also the switch.................

frats,
Rosco

Woodzy · Post by **Woodzy** » Sun Apr 06, 2008 9:20 am

would this help?

Malcolm · Post by **Malcolm** » Sun Apr 06, 2008 10:24 am

Rosco & Woodzy,

Thanks very much for your help. Woodzy that configuration is what I eventually came up with.

I feel like a real tool

what I found was that if you squint and look really closely in good light the new light sockets I used have which pin is which on the back of the terminal. Or if all else fails one can put their glasses on and its as plain as day to see.

Thanks again

Mal

ekdave1962 · Post by **ekdave1962** » Sat Apr 12, 2008 12:42 pm

ah Mel your like the rest of us .. and ya get older ya need specs but refuse to use em .. i decide i need to where em when i did this loverly weld on om my seat belt anchor points only to take the welding mask off and discover i had done this loverly weld 10 mm away from the plate .. doh

Malcolm · Post by **Malcolm** » Sat Apr 12, 2008 9:13 pm

Dave thats funny shit, but I can relate to that as I've done exactly the same thing. Beautiful weld,

just no where near where its supposted to be.

rosco · Post by **rosco** » Sun Apr 13, 2008 9:47 pm

Why is it our best welds have to be ground "off" - maybe I need to be dyslexic.....

frats,
Rosco