and I am trying to utilize my time in between getting everything ready. Thanks.
Tailshaft to suit????
Tailshaft to suit????
I have heard a torana tailshaft is the right length for red motor conversions, but can't remember what model. Anyone out there know? I am putting a red backed by a truamatic into a sedan. Does anyone know what length the shaft needs to be, I would measure it but the shell is a 20min drive from the subframe and I am trying to utilize my time in between getting everything ready.
Thanks.
and I am trying to utilize my time in between getting everything ready. Thanks.
Speed and Style........... One day I'll get the speed bit.
tailshaft
Hi,
I have just been back through my journal and found the entry I made in October of '82 when I fitted my "red" coupled to an aussie 4 sp and 3:08 centre in an EH diff housing.
I used a tailshaft from an LJ auto - the measurement from centre of the universal joint eyes was 50 3/16".
I think you would be well advised to give Greg at Holdies a call and confirm that, prior to seeking one out.
It would also be relevant to know exactly where your engine mounts have been fitted as this will affect the length required.
frats,
Rosco
I have just been back through my journal and found the entry I made in October of '82 when I fitted my "red" coupled to an aussie 4 sp and 3:08 centre in an EH diff housing.
I used a tailshaft from an LJ auto - the measurement from centre of the universal joint eyes was 50 3/16".
I think you would be well advised to give Greg at Holdies a call and confirm that, prior to seeking one out.
It would also be relevant to know exactly where your engine mounts have been fitted as this will affect the length required.
frats,
Rosco
Thanks Rosco, it was Greg at Holdies that told me originally and I couldn't remember. I have a tailshaft from a HK monaro which I will probably get shortened to suit.
We have made some progress in the last week as the new tunnel is in and the front lower left corner of the shell and passenger floor exists again
. So the subframe will be back on in about 2 weeks and the frontend and driveline will go in then.
We have made some progress in the last week as the new tunnel is in and the front lower left corner of the shell and passenger floor exists again
. So the subframe will be back on in about 2 weeks and the frontend and driveline will go in then.Speed and Style........... One day I'll get the speed bit.
rust prevention
Sounds as if you have done your homework - however I would still suggest having all the necessary components in place prior to cutting that tailshaft.
You may wish to do a little rust prevention work now, which will pay off big time later whilst you have the body stripped down.
When you fit the sub-frame, I would highly recommend you fit plugs (Clark rubber stock 25mm rubber insertion plugs/grommets for about $1.70 each) into the sub-frame holes where your socket spanner goes through to bolt up the front outrigger, this is where your sub-frame will be fouled with debris/rubbish draining away from the radiator baffle.
I also drilled drainage holes through the front bottom member of the sub-frame to rid any water/crud that managed to find its way in (this is the lowest point which will trap debris.
Where the sub-frame legs bolt on to the body, I fitted rubber gaskets to seal the joints (except for the lowest part of the joint) and filled the mounting holes with (Clark rubber) grommets.
There are numerous places around your vehicle which require attention to rust prevention. Obviously any refurbs you have done will have revealed any problems but I would highly recommend you check all the drainage points and ensure they are open.
There are four in the bottom of each sill - when my vehicle was made the blighters at GMH conveniently spot welded most of them up trapping the seepage in until it created its own drainage.
The luggage compartment sides have two in the bottom of the wells. I drilled a couple of extras in the base (floor) of the rear panel behind the frame supports.
Your doors have two drain holes - check they are clear, you may wish to remove any debris from the door cavities - those old door window belts and bailey channels have a habit of loosing their felt strips which usually block the holes.
Beneath the rear seat at the lowest point on each side I drilled two drain holes to rid any water/moisture which sneaked in from the rear.
I you have the underside of your floor stripped - I sealed up all the openings (with the exception of the lowest ones) between the floor strengthenings and various members, jack frames etc, etc with butyl-mastic, then overcoated with primers and top coats and sprayed fishoil into the resulting concealments. Any of the sections which did not have a drainage point - I drilled some at the lowest point.
I would also suggest (unless you know of a better product - I am always
interested in what others have tried) to apply a generous coating of fishoil into the recesses and water collection areas or any part/panel you think may benefit
I have used many products on my old bus over the years (32) and have thus far found this to be the most effective way of rust prevention.
I used a flexible dip tube with a fan nozzle to spray quite a few aerosol cans of fishoil into every box section, runner, cavity and restricted access area in the vehicle.
I have yet to pull back the headlining and seal the inside of the roof - waiting until we pop out the front windscreen before addressing that little chore along with refurbing any needed areas around the window aperture.
I did the rear window aperture and back three sections of the roof interior a year or so ago with excellent results - you may wish to consider condensation and its effect on the inside of your roof! I was quite shocked to find the general did not paint the roof interior.
Please be extremely careful not to use that black bitumen body deadener stuff over unprepared metal - I would still not recommend using it at all - I applied 35 litres of the blasted stuff and am still suffering the results of doing so twenty years on - it will trap moisture under it and will show signs of swelling (no prizes for guessing why) in a year or so.
Sorry to ramble on, just think this little bit of help may go a long way to you keeping your pride alive and hopefully others who follow our site will glean some advice from my experience.
frats,
Rosco
You may wish to do a little rust prevention work now, which will pay off big time later whilst you have the body stripped down.
When you fit the sub-frame, I would highly recommend you fit plugs (Clark rubber stock 25mm rubber insertion plugs/grommets for about $1.70 each) into the sub-frame holes where your socket spanner goes through to bolt up the front outrigger, this is where your sub-frame will be fouled with debris/rubbish draining away from the radiator baffle.
I also drilled drainage holes through the front bottom member of the sub-frame to rid any water/crud that managed to find its way in (this is the lowest point which will trap debris.
Where the sub-frame legs bolt on to the body, I fitted rubber gaskets to seal the joints (except for the lowest part of the joint) and filled the mounting holes with (Clark rubber) grommets.
There are numerous places around your vehicle which require attention to rust prevention. Obviously any refurbs you have done will have revealed any problems but I would highly recommend you check all the drainage points and ensure they are open.
There are four in the bottom of each sill - when my vehicle was made the blighters at GMH conveniently spot welded most of them up trapping the seepage in until it created its own drainage.
The luggage compartment sides have two in the bottom of the wells. I drilled a couple of extras in the base (floor) of the rear panel behind the frame supports.
Your doors have two drain holes - check they are clear, you may wish to remove any debris from the door cavities - those old door window belts and bailey channels have a habit of loosing their felt strips which usually block the holes.
Beneath the rear seat at the lowest point on each side I drilled two drain holes to rid any water/moisture which sneaked in from the rear.
I you have the underside of your floor stripped - I sealed up all the openings (with the exception of the lowest ones) between the floor strengthenings and various members, jack frames etc, etc with butyl-mastic, then overcoated with primers and top coats and sprayed fishoil into the resulting concealments. Any of the sections which did not have a drainage point - I drilled some at the lowest point.
I would also suggest (unless you know of a better product - I am always
interested in what others have tried) to apply a generous coating of fishoil into the recesses and water collection areas or any part/panel you think may benefit
I have used many products on my old bus over the years (32) and have thus far found this to be the most effective way of rust prevention.
I used a flexible dip tube with a fan nozzle to spray quite a few aerosol cans of fishoil into every box section, runner, cavity and restricted access area in the vehicle.
I have yet to pull back the headlining and seal the inside of the roof - waiting until we pop out the front windscreen before addressing that little chore along with refurbing any needed areas around the window aperture.
I did the rear window aperture and back three sections of the roof interior a year or so ago with excellent results - you may wish to consider condensation and its effect on the inside of your roof! I was quite shocked to find the general did not paint the roof interior.
Please be extremely careful not to use that black bitumen body deadener stuff over unprepared metal - I would still not recommend using it at all - I applied 35 litres of the blasted stuff and am still suffering the results of doing so twenty years on - it will trap moisture under it and will show signs of swelling (no prizes for guessing why) in a year or so.
Sorry to ramble on, just think this little bit of help may go a long way to you keeping your pride alive and hopefully others who follow our site will glean some advice from my experience.
frats,
Rosco
Thanks for that Rosco, as for the tailshaft I will be waiting for the driveline to go in, its just I was hoping to get an idea of what car to look for a donor shaft from rather than climbing under half a dozen at the wreckers.
As for the rust prevention tips thanks for those as well, will take em on board, already new about the bitumen paint being porous. Seal it up with a good coating of subframe black and should have better results.
As for the rust prevention tips thanks for those as well, will take em on board, already new about the bitumen paint being porous. Seal it up with a good coating of subframe black and should have better results.
Speed and Style........... One day I'll get the speed bit.