Exterior body mouldings

[V8EK4us]

Hi all,
We have our EK project up and running in Darwin and need some info from you guys "in the know"!. We have 2 EKs, a 61 and a 62, both Specials, the plan is to build one serious EK out of the two . The stripped car is very straight and very little rust (purchased sight unseen from Toowoomba QLD!!), the second EK was purchased in Darwin for its exterior mouldings (mainly). It has the s/s mouldings that I have rarely seen, it has 2 mouldings from the front that change to 3 at the front door, red stripe inbetween the main ones and an aluminium empossed strip between the lower mouldings from the front door back. Does anyone have any info on the significance of these? I have searched high and low and can't find a thing on it!

We are tubbing the Ek to take 15x10 Convo's on the rear and 15x6 on the front. The donk is a 350 chev SB with the fruit and a 6/71 blower and twin 600's on top (aiming for a reliable and "streetable" 700-750hp). We intend to bring her down to the Nationals when she is finished.

I contacted Rosco (who replied asap with helpful info) the other day re: mouldings we required and have since picked up the second EK with all required "plus some bonuses".

Any info on the mouldings would be greatly appretiated.

We will start posting pics next week to show the progress of our Baby!


Cheers

Quinny
[/img]

[Blacky]

G`day Quinny, welcome to the forum mate, you cant have too many blown Chev powered EK`s !!!!
Sounds like you may have a flashline kit there, one of the restorers will know.
Cheers, Blacky.

[V8EK4us]

Thanks Blacky, it's great to be a part of the forum!

We hope to make this one real "special". Can't believe the mouldings......damn near perfect (shame about the rest of the car!! Rustsville!) LOL!

A bit more info on the EK's new specs:
CRS HR front end to suit 350
9" rear, shortened to track of 1230mm to keep 15x10 underneath!
CRS chassis kit
Tubbed rear end
Powerglide - 3000-4000 stall
Rack and Pinion steering
Phantom Mica (VE GTS) paint
Metallic RED and Charchoal replacing the red and aluminium strips in the "flashline kit".
Red and Black interior
HQ GTS flutes
Pedders suspension (low)
Dual 3" s/s exhaust (D&T custom system)
A/C (bloody hot in Darwin!)

Other stuff that we will post as she progresses! Can't wait!


Cheers

Quinny

[ekdave1962]

hey V8ek sound like a awsome machine, please post some pics we would love to see your progess ..

D

[V8EK4us]

Hey SunnyTim,
Thanks for the info "pick it like a nose", that is exactly what's on the side of our '62. The '61 was from QLD but it seems like the '62 was from NSW. The '61 still has the original Hydramatic owners book in the glovebox, we didn't know this until it arrived!

Work is steadily progressing, is there any easier way to post pics?

cheers

Quinny

[V8EK4us]

hey V8ek sound like a awsome machine, please post some pics we would love to see your progess ..

D

Hi Dave,
Thanks for the post, I will make sure we keep you all posted with progress on the Beasty.

cheers

Quinny

[Mephious]

Nice build V8EK4us !!

I have the exact motor, blower and carbs on my sedan. With the 10s up back you will need to move the rails. If you need any help just say !!

[V8EK4us]

Nice build V8EK4us !!

I have the exact motor, blower and carbs on my sedan. With the 10s up back you will need to move the rails. If you need any help just say !!

Thanks Mephious! I think she should be a good thing when its all done. I have submitted the paper work to Transport to notify them of the need to narrow the track and tub the rear end. I have some ideas on relocating the rails:
1/ Cut out the entire rear floor section to the outside of the rails from the inside of the boot to approx' middle of rear seat.
2/ Cut and shut this section down the middle (approx' 140mm).
3/ Cut and set 2 new transverse beams to tie into existing bodywork and add strength to the rear end to avoid twist under heavy acceleration, these would be pressed channels the same dimensions as the "chassis rails".
4/ Relocate in centre of vehicle and tack in place (front and rear will only be touching the original body work).
5/ Replace original internal section of tubs with new tubs, tack in place.
6/ Cut new plates to fill section behind tubs (between original body and relocated rails).
7/ weld cut down boot hinge supports onto new tubs.
8/fully weld (MIG) and prep for painting.

This is basically what I am looking at doing. Is it easier to just remove the rails and move them over? The tank will be replaced with a new Alloy tank so the existing tank recess is not important (It's a bonus when you have an Aluminium fabrication business! ha ha) What's your thoughts? Have you tubbed your sedan? It would be great to see a pic. Is your build finished?

cheers

[Mephious]

I only mini tubbed mine mate, and I was hard pressed fitting the 15 x 8 1/2 convos on the back. I pretty much pushed the boundaries with the motor and the engineer basically said not to stretch my luck with the rear. Thou I was able to get away with 4inch wide up front.

The engine work is almost complete, the brake system is being fixed up at the moment. I still have a bit of body work and interior to go thou however.

Heres the link for the build http://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtop ... 47&start=0

I used very similar gear to what you have listed -
I used a Weiand blower and to fit the motor and pulleys into the front without modding the firewall , I thru an engine plate up front as the mounts didnt line up with the block.

Run thru the link and pics and dont hesitate mate to ask questions.

Its been a very testing build which has gone on way too long ( 2 years ), basically started from scratch with no references to other blown sbc and had to swap and change too much shit to get it all fitting. Im running 4 wheel disc also which I would avoid due to the caliper depth on the rear for back spacing and the need for a vacuum pump.

[spyder6052]

hey fellow NT person

good to see there is another one from here that isnt scared to post.....

yes that is a go at all you FREAKS from up here that read these forums..... (bj, dan, jeggo)

for posting pics i use www.photobucket.com this is a free hosting site and is easy to use.

keep us informed about how you go with the TAC as i am going to have to submit my new car to them soon

which fabrication shop you work at ? (not fingers)

ally is much nicer(although more toxic) to weld than steel is

[V8EK4us]

Thanks spyder6052,
Na, not Fingers Aluminium, it's one of the Plate Alloy boat builders, they have all the gear including MIGs, TIGs, CNC plasma, 100 ton presses, guillotines and an Inverter and Gas fired down draught spray booth (8.5m x 4.2m)........handy or what!

I got the photobucket setup now so will start loading pics and story (when I'm not in the shed workin' on her).

Just about have the shell ready to sandblast, it will then be mounted to a revolving cradle to make the body repairs easier.

Hey spyder, what's the "new car"?

cheers

[spyder6052]

Hey spyder, what's the "new car"?

cheers

http://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1713

[mrs ratbox]

mephious after talking to a freind the other day you have a VERY easy engineer, my mate has an LH torana with a turbo'd 383 he can't find an engineer that will touch his car with anything bigger than a 283, and these cars came factory with a 308 but once he put forced induction he's not even allowd that
be carefull if he's from newcastle there's one up there that's been black listed but he's still doing them you find out when you get to the RTA

[V8EK4us]

mephious after talking to a freind the other day you have a VERY easy engineer, my mate has an LH torana with a turbo'd 383 he can't find an engineer that will touch his car with anything bigger than a 283, and these cars came factory with a 308 but once he put forced induction he's not even allowd that
be carefull if he's from newcastle there's one up there that's been black listed but he's still doing them you find out when you get to the RTA

Hi Ratbox, not sure if this post was ment for me but here goes anyway. The engineer we are using was recommended by the RTA (MVR/TAC in Darwin). Their only concern is the blower pully etc stickin' it's head out of the bonnet...........I suggested a professionally made clear poly-carbonate "cover/scoop" which was accepted in principle .....I am still waiting for the official paper work to arrive, hopefully in the next few weeks. The proposal I have put forward will have the car 100% legally registered and drivable (without too much harassment).

cheers

V8EK4us

[karsten]

i will give you my right leg for that hydomatic manual

its a real good leg never been crashed and has even hair coverage