Transmission in, diff in and measured up for the tail shaft. It’s only 8” long, not so easy for Hardy/Spicer to make up. The shorty box also has a different output shaft. No bronze bush, and no needle rollers like most shorties - it has a caged bearing. Will need to borrow two yokes from Hardies and see which one fits (the needle roller one is smaller than normal Powerglide and case hardened to run on the rollers). More fit and fiddle.
Fit the cable between the shifter and box, and can see it is way too long. Needs 420mm taken out of it. Off to FlexibleDrive it goes.
Measured up to buy the high tensile chassis bolts, as the ones in it are for construction only.
Measured up and took photos for the bits that need chroming, will get that organised shortly.
Cheers,
Harv
Harv's FED thread
Re: Harv's FED thread
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
Re: Harv's FED thread
I’m china understand that starter setup…
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
EK van on rotisserie
Re: Harv's FED thread
The engine bolts to one side of the big ally plate, and the gearbox on the other side. The starter-er can’t mount direct to the gearbox, but instead mounts to the ally plate from the engine side.
Cheers,
Harv
Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
Re: Harv's FED thread
Thanks Harv I'm with you now.
Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
EK van on rotisserie
Re: Harv's FED thread
poop , I can't see your photos - will have to wait until I am back in the world ......
I started with nothing and still have most of it left.
Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.
Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.
Re: Harv's FED thread
Got some fiddly stuff done.
Got the drain and filler plugs sorted for the diff. The old Toyota ones went missing, so some stainless allen-headed M18x1.5 plugs will do the trick. Sometimes I win… this is a common thread size for oxygen sensors, so easy enough to buy some “bungs” to suit.
All the driveline fluids that can spill have to have their vents routed to a catch can – sideplate, radiator, gearbox etc. I bought a catch can a while back, but hadn’t thought through how I would route the diff breather. Confirmed I don’t need to run the diff breather to a catch can. The diff will not build up overmuch pressure, so it is acceptable to replace the breather with a supercharger casing relief/vent press button. A quick press of the button before each run to vent the diff housing, and all good to go. The Hilux breather thread is ¼ BSP… would never have thought Toyota would use that thread, but guess metric tapered thread is not so common anywhere. Will need to drill and tap it out to 7/16UNF to suit the relief/vent button.
Got the cable shortened for the shifter. I should have asked first, as it cost more than a new cable from the US. Lesson learned, and at least it works.
Got all the removable chassis/steering stuff pulled back off again and shipped off to the chrome plater. 18 pieces in total. The fancy ARP stainless bolts to put it all back together are on their way from the US.
The tailshaft proved problematic. I learned that there are two Hilux diff flange patterns… mine is the 60x60mm square pattern, not the 56x64mm pattern. The tailshaft is only tiny (about 230mm)… essentially two unis welded back-to-back. Hardy Spicer were a little wary, as there is not much room for error. A standard shaft has a lot of “slip” to allow for suspension movement. The FED has no suspension, hence no slip and little “play” to account to measurement error. I picked up the tailshaft yoke to check bottomed-out clearance to let Hardy’s finish the tailshaft design. This is where things came unglued… the space I have is 12mm too short for them to work to. I’ve had a chat with Sydney Driveline Services, who I’ve used before. They reckon they can make it fit, so shipped to yoke over to them. Fingers crossed. Got the four fancy 10mm driveshaft bolts sorted.
Picked up the angle drive from the machinist. It now drives both a magneto and the McGee pump (that pump is mighty tight to the engine plate, but fits).
Fuel tank got made up, and trial fitted. Back to the fabricator again to have a mounting tray made up.
Cheers,
Harv
Got the drain and filler plugs sorted for the diff. The old Toyota ones went missing, so some stainless allen-headed M18x1.5 plugs will do the trick. Sometimes I win… this is a common thread size for oxygen sensors, so easy enough to buy some “bungs” to suit.
- Hilux diff filler and drain plugs... AKA oxygen sensor bungs..png (37.95 KiB) Viewed 1014 times
All the driveline fluids that can spill have to have their vents routed to a catch can – sideplate, radiator, gearbox etc. I bought a catch can a while back, but hadn’t thought through how I would route the diff breather. Confirmed I don’t need to run the diff breather to a catch can. The diff will not build up overmuch pressure, so it is acceptable to replace the breather with a supercharger casing relief/vent press button. A quick press of the button before each run to vent the diff housing, and all good to go. The Hilux breather thread is ¼ BSP… would never have thought Toyota would use that thread, but guess metric tapered thread is not so common anywhere. Will need to drill and tap it out to 7/16UNF to suit the relief/vent button.
- supercharger relief vent button... works for diffs too.jpg (6.57 KiB) Viewed 1014 times
Got the cable shortened for the shifter. I should have asked first, as it cost more than a new cable from the US. Lesson learned, and at least it works.
Got all the removable chassis/steering stuff pulled back off again and shipped off to the chrome plater. 18 pieces in total. The fancy ARP stainless bolts to put it all back together are on their way from the US.
- Parts for chroming.jpg (100.75 KiB) Viewed 1014 times
The tailshaft proved problematic. I learned that there are two Hilux diff flange patterns… mine is the 60x60mm square pattern, not the 56x64mm pattern. The tailshaft is only tiny (about 230mm)… essentially two unis welded back-to-back. Hardy Spicer were a little wary, as there is not much room for error. A standard shaft has a lot of “slip” to allow for suspension movement. The FED has no suspension, hence no slip and little “play” to account to measurement error. I picked up the tailshaft yoke to check bottomed-out clearance to let Hardy’s finish the tailshaft design. This is where things came unglued… the space I have is 12mm too short for them to work to. I’ve had a chat with Sydney Driveline Services, who I’ve used before. They reckon they can make it fit, so shipped to yoke over to them. Fingers crossed. Got the four fancy 10mm driveshaft bolts sorted.
Picked up the angle drive from the machinist. It now drives both a magneto and the McGee pump (that pump is mighty tight to the engine plate, but fits).
- Angle drive.jpg (130.84 KiB) Viewed 1014 times
Fuel tank got made up, and trial fitted. Back to the fabricator again to have a mounting tray made up.
Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
Re: Harv's FED thread
Got some more done on the FED.
Got some help to make up the template for a windshield, then drilled out the cowl for fasteners. Removed all the panels and took them off to the paint shop for painting. Plain aluminium inside, colour outside. Colour choice and paint type is a secret for now, as is the name to be painted on it. Hint... you won't miss it in a crowd
. It will be a while before I need the panels, but good to get them sorted and safely stored away.
Got the driveshaft shortened, and fitted up. Half that yoke snout had to be machined off as the shorty Powerglide does not accept much of the yoke before bottoming out.
Got the transmission cooler bypass line (no cooler) bent up and fitted (now that was one nasty bend to make).
Got the diff breather in the post, drilled out the diff and fitted it. Then had it pointed out to me that it will sit under my left knee. Bugger. Need to cap that off and relocate.
Got the fuel tank tray made up and installed, along with the fuel tank. It has an interesting breather, which is an internal tube. The open end sites just inside the cap, and the other end passes out the tank wall at the forward face. It allows breathing, but also acts as a rollover valve if the FED turns turtle. Neat.
Got the fuel lines for both pump suction and primary return run along with the filter. Decided to go -8AN (5/8”) on the suction and -6AN (1/2”) on the return. Made the lines up in stainless, then realised my normal steel bundy tube benders do not have enough grunt (after crimping several attempts). Bit the bullet and bought a pair of Ridgid benders. The cheapo ones have two flat dies that guide (and sometimes crimp) the tube. The Ridgid heavy duty ones have a die on one side and a pair of rollers on the other. They make beautiful bends in stainless, though harder to get the bend hard up against the flare fittings. Fuel lines now run back to the motor, ready to bend and trim once the manifolds are in place.
Cheers,
Harv
Got some help to make up the template for a windshield, then drilled out the cowl for fasteners. Removed all the panels and took them off to the paint shop for painting. Plain aluminium inside, colour outside. Colour choice and paint type is a secret for now, as is the name to be painted on it. Hint... you won't miss it in a crowd
. It will be a while before I need the panels, but good to get them sorted and safely stored away.Got the driveshaft shortened, and fitted up. Half that yoke snout had to be machined off as the shorty Powerglide does not accept much of the yoke before bottoming out.
- Shortened driveshaft.jpg (906.7 KiB) Viewed 965 times
- Shortened driveshaft installed.jpg (812.4 KiB) Viewed 965 times
- trans cooler.jpg (610.51 KiB) Viewed 965 times
Got the diff breather in the post, drilled out the diff and fitted it. Then had it pointed out to me that it will sit under my left knee. Bugger. Need to cap that off and relocate.
Got the fuel tank tray made up and installed, along with the fuel tank. It has an interesting breather, which is an internal tube. The open end sites just inside the cap, and the other end passes out the tank wall at the forward face. It allows breathing, but also acts as a rollover valve if the FED turns turtle. Neat.
- fuel tank.jpg (866.56 KiB) Viewed 965 times
Got the fuel lines for both pump suction and primary return run along with the filter. Decided to go -8AN (5/8”) on the suction and -6AN (1/2”) on the return. Made the lines up in stainless, then realised my normal steel bundy tube benders do not have enough grunt (after crimping several attempts). Bit the bullet and bought a pair of Ridgid benders. The cheapo ones have two flat dies that guide (and sometimes crimp) the tube. The Ridgid heavy duty ones have a die on one side and a pair of rollers on the other. They make beautiful bends in stainless, though harder to get the bend hard up against the flare fittings. Fuel lines now run back to the motor, ready to bend and trim once the manifolds are in place.
- fuel lines.jpg (974.64 KiB) Viewed 965 times
Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
Re: Harv's FED thread
Good progress mate 
I started with nothing and still have most of it left.
Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.
Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.
Re: Harv's FED thread
The axles arrived, so got excited - time for a complete diff, brakes and wheels!
Drilled out and tapped to relocate the diff breather so it is no longer under my left knee (squishy knees and hard breathers do not mix). Went to screw in the ARP studs for the centre, and they were tight. Triple checked the thread (M8x1.25), all ok. Figured the threads were dirty, so tapped one. Took more force than normal for thread chasing. It then dawned on me that they are not blind holes, and loose threads could wick diff oil. Methinks Toyota cut them tight for a reason. Put the tap away, and used the double nut trick to get the studs in.
Backing plates on, axles in, drill rotors for 1/2” studs (trip to Bunnings for 14mm drill) and ready for calipers. Then it all turned to custard.
The diff is set up for VN-VS Commodore rear brakes. I bought new rotors, and reco’d a pair of calipers (sexy red paint is good for an extra 5mph). Commodore wheels are positive offset, so the bulky calipers have lots of space to tuck UNDER the car (inboard). There is not much room inboard on the FED… the calipers want to push inside the body by 22mm
Looks like my el-cheapo plan to run Commodore brakes is not going to work. Willwood calipers are slimmer, and both rotors and calipers are much, much lighter. Dummies up Number 1 Son’s Willwood rears (much to his disgust) and they fit all except the bracket mount. Took lots of measurements, time to peruse the Willwood catalogue.
Cheers,
Harv
Drilled out and tapped to relocate the diff breather so it is no longer under my left knee (squishy knees and hard breathers do not mix). Went to screw in the ARP studs for the centre, and they were tight. Triple checked the thread (M8x1.25), all ok. Figured the threads were dirty, so tapped one. Took more force than normal for thread chasing. It then dawned on me that they are not blind holes, and loose threads could wick diff oil. Methinks Toyota cut them tight for a reason. Put the tap away, and used the double nut trick to get the studs in.
Backing plates on, axles in, drill rotors for 1/2” studs (trip to Bunnings for 14mm drill) and ready for calipers. Then it all turned to custard.
The diff is set up for VN-VS Commodore rear brakes. I bought new rotors, and reco’d a pair of calipers (sexy red paint is good for an extra 5mph). Commodore wheels are positive offset, so the bulky calipers have lots of space to tuck UNDER the car (inboard). There is not much room inboard on the FED… the calipers want to push inside the body by 22mm
Looks like my el-cheapo plan to run Commodore brakes is not going to work. Willwood calipers are slimmer, and both rotors and calipers are much, much lighter. Dummies up Number 1 Son’s Willwood rears (much to his disgust) and they fit all except the bracket mount. Took lots of measurements, time to peruse the Willwood catalogue.
Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
Re: Harv's FED thread
- IMG_0596.jpeg (3.12 MiB) Viewed 909 times
- IMG_0597.jpeg (2.52 MiB) Viewed 909 times
- IMG_0598.jpeg (2.96 MiB) Viewed 909 times
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
Re: Harv's FED thread
Wilwood brakes... this has to be easy, right?
Fitting Wilwood brakes onto a Commodore-type diff flange is not going to be easy. There are some Aussie mobs fitting Wilwood brakes to various Conformadores, but they are set up for a standard diff and are road-type brakes (not the light drag version I need).
Some thinking and a call to Wilwood managed to scare them off. I would normally call Hoppers Stoppers, though they are not a fan of Wilwood stuff (not ADR approved). If anyone knows of a mob in Australia custom fitting Wilwood brakes to race cars please let me know, otherwise it looks like I need to reverse engineer this on my own. Praying I don't screw this up as the parts are expensive, and I will not get to test-fit them... have to work off the drawings and get it right first time.
This is the starting point - hub offset and clearance to the body panels. Measurements were taken one afternoon using plywood to dummy up the body - need to double check those measurements to be sure to be sure.
Basic setup as per below. Massive pedal ratio, so the 7/8" master that I have will be more than adequate (one thing Wilwood was happy to confirm).
Some Googling through the Wilwood online catalogue shows a rear-wheel drag race brake kit that is a close match to what I need (140-0263), but the rotor hat has too much offset (pushes the brakes inboard too far). Changing out the hat to another one looks like a winner. Lots of cut-and-paste of Wilwood images with MS Paint and some calculations gives this:
Looks like it will work. There is some room for brackets, made from 3/8 ally plate (probably 6061). Wilwood use clinch nuts for the fasteners on their brackets, but I suspect that I will need to use countersunk bolts instead.
Cheers,
Harv
Fitting Wilwood brakes onto a Commodore-type diff flange is not going to be easy. There are some Aussie mobs fitting Wilwood brakes to various Conformadores, but they are set up for a standard diff and are road-type brakes (not the light drag version I need).
Some thinking and a call to Wilwood managed to scare them off. I would normally call Hoppers Stoppers, though they are not a fan of Wilwood stuff (not ADR approved). If anyone knows of a mob in Australia custom fitting Wilwood brakes to race cars please let me know, otherwise it looks like I need to reverse engineer this on my own. Praying I don't screw this up as the parts are expensive, and I will not get to test-fit them... have to work off the drawings and get it right first time.
This is the starting point - hub offset and clearance to the body panels. Measurements were taken one afternoon using plywood to dummy up the body - need to double check those measurements to be sure to be sure.
- Brakes hub offset.png (102.42 KiB) Viewed 867 times
Basic setup as per below. Massive pedal ratio, so the 7/8" master that I have will be more than adequate (one thing Wilwood was happy to confirm).
- Brakes overview.png (118.2 KiB) Viewed 867 times
Some Googling through the Wilwood online catalogue shows a rear-wheel drag race brake kit that is a close match to what I need (140-0263), but the rotor hat has too much offset (pushes the brakes inboard too far). Changing out the hat to another one looks like a winner. Lots of cut-and-paste of Wilwood images with MS Paint and some calculations gives this:
- Brakes dimensions.png (59 KiB) Viewed 867 times
Looks like it will work. There is some room for brackets, made from 3/8 ally plate (probably 6061). Wilwood use clinch nuts for the fasteners on their brackets, but I suspect that I will need to use countersunk bolts instead.
- brakes brackets.png (13.85 KiB) Viewed 867 times
Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
Re: Harv's FED thread
Hi Harv,
All great stuff and reading.
A question, who did your fuel tank ?
Regards Greg
All great stuff and reading.
A question, who did your fuel tank ?
Regards Greg
So many cars so little time!
Re: Harv's FED thread
Richard Botica, the same gentleman who built the chassis.
Cheers,
Harv
Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
Re: Harv's FED thread
Harv,
A question from the uneducated , why not modify the bodywork to go around the caliper ???
A question from the uneducated , why not modify the bodywork to go around the caliper ???
I started with nothing and still have most of it left.
Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.
Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.
Re: Harv's FED thread
It would be a fair size "bulge" (a little unsightly).
... and mainly because some idiot took the panels away to be painted before finalising the brakes (the same idiot checked the wheels did not rub, but assumed the brakes would sit inside).
Cheers,
Harv
... and mainly because some idiot took the panels away to be painted before finalising the brakes (the same idiot checked the wheels did not rub, but assumed the brakes would sit inside).
Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.