FB Standard Wagon

[FbSTDwagon]

Well I have been spending the arvo continuing to clean up all the underbody components and I’m onto the steering rack.

I have 2 x FB original units and I was planning on using one of them to get me on the road.

As it works out 1 connecting rod is bent and the other is metal thin around where the pitman arm goes in, also a few other components are naffed but I’ll make the rest of it work.

Looking through my spare parts pile I found this other rack with is obviously from a later model, it’s got nice ball joint thingmijigs.

Can anyone tell me what this rack is off and if I can somehow make it fit the drum brake front end???

[ardiesse]

Drew,

HD or HR. Line the FB linkages up against the others. The distance from pitman arm to idler arm should be the same, and so should the distance between inner tie rod ends.

You'd need a new idler arm support and bush; but I think they're the same from FE to HR.

HR steering linkages are designed to clear an HR sump, which sits in front of the drag link, not behind. You risk the drag link fouling on the FB's sump. I tried HR linkages on my EK when I converted to an HR front suspension. For some reason, the steering linkages bound near full lock, so I went back to the original linkages without any problem. Others may not have had this problem.

I.m.o., I'd be inclined to re-use the original steering linkages. If you have some donor parts, raid the idler arm side for the cups and plugs, and test-fit them in the driver's side. A gentle tap or two with the ball end of a ball-pein hammer on the drag link will help stop the plugs rattling around inside the drag link. The Rare Spares replacement parts just aren't the same quality as GM-H.

Rob

[Errol62]

The HD HR steering gear as Rob has identified it is a bolt up modification with several benefits. I can only address the sump clearance relative to EH red motor sump, but no issues with using this on the original kingpin front end in the ute (since swapped to HR).

The benefits are off the shelf new replacement parts for all wear parts and most components excepting the pitman arm. Not sure about the idler arm. The original gear would probably be fine if you could get decent new inner tie rod ends and cups but realistically you can’t. Also the pitman arm ball pivot as Rob Hardman has found, is unobtainable. The HDHR stuff is inherently more precise, and more so with the availability of new parts. Just be careful buying inner tie rod ends online as some, although the bolt up, foul on lock, dramatically reducing turning circle. At the least get the Protec items which are available off the shelf from Car Parts Plus at Lonsdale. If you haven’t been there yet I recommend you make up a shopping list of obscure replacement mechanical parts and head on down there. You’ll be amazed at what they have on the shelf. And prices are better than epay. Prolly won’t get a Stromberg rebuild kit though as there is a national shortage.(!)


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[Errol62]

Oh and the mod is far from obvious to all but the most discerning eye.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[FbSTDwagon]

Drew,

HD or HR. Line the FB linkages up against the others. The distance from pitman arm to idler arm should be the same, and so should the distance between inner tie rod ends.

You'd need a new idler arm support and bush; but I think they're the same from FE to HR.

HR steering linkages are designed to clear an HR sump, which sits in front of the drag link, not behind. You risk the drag link fouling on the FB's sump. I tried HR linkages on my EK when I converted to an HR front suspension. For some reason, the steering linkages bound near full lock, so I went back to the original linkages without any problem. Others may not have had this problem.

I.m.o., I'd be inclined to re-use the original steering linkages. If you have some donor parts, raid the idler arm side for the cups and plugs, and test-fit them in the driver's side. A gentle tap or two with the ball end of a ball-pein hammer on the drag link will help stop the plugs rattling around inside the drag link. The Rare Spares replacement parts just aren't the same quality as GM-H.

Rob

Gday Rob thanks for the accurate reply.

Yes I did line up the linkages and yes they are the same kind of dimensions, that is what made me curious about wether it will do the job.

I already have a new idler arm and bush ready for the build so that is a bonus.

I’m thinking I will try the HR linkages with the king pin front and grey motor just to see if it works, but I’m saying that yes I have plenty of original linkages as spares to build something that is going to work if required.

Thanks Rob much appreciated

[FbSTDwagon]

The HD HR steering gear as Rob has identified it is a bolt up modification with several benefits. I can only address the sump clearance relative to EH red motor sump, but no issues with using this on the original kingpin front end in the ute (since swapped to HR).

The benefits are off the shelf new replacement parts for all wear parts and most components excepting the pitman arm. Not sure about the idler arm. The original gear would probably be fine if you could get decent new inner tie rod ends and cups but realistically you can’t. Also the pitman arm ball pivot as Rob Hardman has found, is unobtainable. The HDHR stuff is inherently more precise, and more so with the availability of new parts. Just be careful buying inner tie rod ends online as some, although the bolt up, foul on lock, dramatically reducing turning circle. At the least get the Protec items which are available off the shelf from Car Parts Plus at Lonsdale. If you haven’t been there yet I recommend you make up a shopping list of obscure replacement mechanical parts and head on down there. You’ll be amazed at what they have on the shelf. And prices are better than epay. Prolly won’t get a Stromberg rebuild kit though as there is a national shortage.(!)


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

Clay it’s sounds like the HR linkage will work ok on a kingpin grinned with a red motor but it may be a different story for a grey motor.

All I can do is give it a shot.
I think I’ll keep this HR linkage as it is and try to fit it with the motor in, all of the original FB stuff I’ll hold onto incase it doesn’t work.

Yes I’ll have to look up Car Parts Plus at Lonsdale, I didn’t know they existed until now!

[Errol62]

EH sump is and had to be very much same as EJ grey and therefore all other greys, I believe. So should work.

FB ute driver, EK van project

[FbSTDwagon]

Thanks for the advice on the steering linkages fellas, I’ll take Robs experience and rebuild the factory FB linkage and use that as I know it will work with the grey motor and drum brake front end.

Will have a trail with the HR linkage once it’s all roadworthy and I have the time to look into it further, so it’s not a drama.

However what is turning into a mini drama is my wheels!

I have 5x FB/EK wheels that I thought would be sweet to sandblast and paint but it’s never that simple is it!!!

2 blasted up ok and the next 2 as too far rusty for me to comfortably use with out always thinking about it.
The remaining wheel is still on a car with tyre fitted, so I don’t know what condition that will be in when blast it either.

So I’m 2 or 3 wheels down to make a full set and I’m thinking of just buying some new or secondhand set of wheels or mags.

I really want to utilise the space on top of the fuel tank to store a spare tyre so it dictates the size of wheel and tyre that I can have, more or less a standard size wheel and tyre.

The spare wheel storage space is 175mm high after installing the Mustang fuel tank.

So I rang the local tyre joint and he can get what he called ‘Torana’ wheels - 13 x 4.5 with 19mm positive offset… which is almost exactly the same off set as the FB rims

I have never bought new wheels before for a FB so I guess I’m asking for opinions…..

What would you blokes do?

[Errol62]

I would use your best rim as the spare and get some bare barrels, 6" front and 7" rear. Use the centres from the rusty wheels if they are ok, and make up your own wideys. If I can I'm sure you can. I know it's a bit of mucki g around. I have a rusted rim you could use the centre out of of you want it.

FB ute driver, EK van project

[FbSTDwagon]

I would use your best rim as the spare and get some bare barrels, 6" front and 7" rear. Use the centres from the rusty wheels if they are ok, and make up your own wideys. If I can I'm sure you can. I know it's a bit of mucki g around. I have a rusted rim you could use the centre out of of you want it.

FB ute driver, EK van project

Now that’s a bloody good idea!
Is it legal / illegal to have different width rims?

[Errol62]

Yes you can front and rear. 6” is the widest you can go and stay in legal track (original + 25mm) on the front with 13” rims. I’ve got a set of 13” chromies you can borrow to check fitment. All set up for legal track. Custom steel wheels at Blair Athol should be able to supply the barrels, but it’s about $100 per corner.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[Blacky]

Is it legal / illegal to have different width rims?

only if you get caught actually , I think its OK to have different widths as long as the diameter is the same, so no 13" on the front and 14" on the back.

[Brett027]

My stupid Merc has different sized tyres on the front to the rear. Rims are bigger diam on front to fit bigger discs. Makes it a bit hard to rotate tyres

[FbSTDwagon]

Yes you can front and rear. 6” is the widest you can go and stay in legal track (original + 25mm) on the front with 13” rims. I’ve got a set of 13” chromies you can borrow to check fitment. All set up for legal track. Custom steel wheels at Blair Athol should be able to supply the barrels, but it’s about $100 per corner.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

That’s some good info thanks mate and yes a quick test fit of those wheels might not be a bad idea.

I’ll give Custom Steel Wheels a shout and see what they have to say!

[FbSTDwagon]

Is it legal / illegal to have different width rims?

only if you get caught actually , I think its OK to have different widths as long as the diameter is the same, so no 13" on the front and 14" on the back.

Haha I have lived my life ‘not getting caught!’
Kind of funny wanting to be so pedantic about what will be possibly the roughest looking old holden on the road!