
Stephen
Thanks Rob - I'm working on a repair at the top of the door frame and I bent that out to get the torch in. Realistically not sure what light bulb solution I was hoping for, but it great to get advise that confirms what you were thinking. The flat bar is a good tip. I bought some 10mm square bar that I will use to help form the rubber gutters. Not much weight behind it, but that might do it.ardiesse wrote: Mon Dec 14, 2020 10:31 am
You're concerned about getting the business end of the MIG down into the channel where the rubber sits in order to plug-weld . . . My advice is -
Don't form the return completely before welding the piece in. Go to about 30 degrees (say). If you can get yourself a short length of 10x25 flat bar, you can use it as a dolly inside the channel to form the return. Stretching (where the A-pillar curves downwards) is easier than puckering (where you bang your knee if you're tall). A pair of stumpy round-nose pliers is quite good as a tucking fork. Or you can just make a couple of hacksaw cuts and weld them up.
Rob
Will do - it was patched over but fell out when I hit it with the wire brush.SunnyTim wrote: Tue Dec 15, 2020 7:35 am Good work. Don't forget to fill that aerial hole too. The never went there and it will likely let water under the top skin.