Ol' Rusty - FB/EK Sedan

[funkyscooter]

Had a bit of time so finished stripping the passenger sill

Only two small holes to weld up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Brett027]

Hi Scott, looks like you have a good solid body there. Nice to see some bright shiny steel

[Blacky]

looks like the rust protection holes have done their job on the sills mate , you gotta be happy with that

[funkyscooter]

Yeah, shame about the other side
Scott

[Blacky]

Yeah, shame about the other side
Scott

look on the bright side, its halved the amount of work you need to do on the sills

[funkyscooter]

Has a closer look at the sills. Just a few small spots that I could poke my sharpened screwdriver though. This is directly under the B-Pillar, between the ribbed plate that joins the B-Pillar to the inner sill. Attacked with a carbide burr in the dremel. I had a few more marked but they must have just been surface rust. Stuck a bit of wire up into the 3 that opened up and had a scratch around. Small amount of rust but seems solid. The ribbed plate is solid.

Sill5.JPG (768.18 KiB) Viewed 668 times

So out with the fish oil. Used this little pipette to squirt a decent amount around. Left a tray under to catch the mess that runs back out.

Sill6.JPG (458.15 KiB) Viewed 668 times

[funkyscooter]

Next, time to build a patch to replace the weld job I did on the A-Pillar. See full details here http://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtop ... 23&t=23749. Pretty happy with how it turned out.

ARepair23.JPG (631.2 KiB) Viewed 668 times

[Errol62]

Better weld up first then fish oil i reckon. Those holes will blow out when you try and fill them up but worth a go. If you widen them out with a dremel or even drill bit you may find several join up requiring a patch. When you think you have it all fill the sill up with fish oil and see where it leaks through. If not too bad you can cauterise the leaks before painting the outside.

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

[Errol62]

Jeez a pipette? That will take a while to fill the whole sill. Shutz gun with flexible hose and 360 deg nozzle works well.

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

[funkyscooter]

Not the whole sill! Just the area between the outer sill and that bracket. The rest of the sill was treated with a rag soaked in fish oil run up and down the sill on a 2 mtr length of electrical conduit. Will go over it all again using the schutz gun method once everything is cut and welded.

[funkyscooter]

Time to mark and cut out. For this I used the Dremel with the cut off wheel then a carbide burr.
Those wheels don’t last long.
Took a lot of reshaping of both the repair patch and the inner A pillar to get this final fit ready for welding.


Scott

[Errol62]

Good stuff. I use worn down 1mm cutting discs on 18V grinder. Then pneumatic panel saw for the corners. Uses 1/3 hacksaw blades. Cheap and no sparks but loud and slow. It is very good for tight spots.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[funkyscooter]

Like the look of that saw Clay.
I have a reciprocating saw - reckon it would do more damage than good on the car. Only use it as a demo saw as the blade has a hapbbit of jamming in whatever I'm cutting, and then the whole saw starts beating the crap out of whatever I'm cutting.
These cuts on the A Pillar were tricky as I didn't want to cut through the inner skin.

[Errol62]

Yer I need to get a decent dremel setup


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[funkyscooter]

Well turned out ok. Pretty it ain’t. Given it sixty years of wear and tear with my hammering.


Scott