help with engine transplant please.

farkamhall · Post by **farkamhall** » Sun Jan 27, 2008 9:43 pm

my apologies to you rosco, i am sorry for not reading it properly. so will any size enine from an EH do as i beleive they had different motors in them

farkamhall · Post by **farkamhall** » Sun Jan 27, 2008 9:47 pm

my apologies to you roscoe for not reading your post properly, sorry. Did the EH have differnent engines at any time and if so, does it matter which sump i get .

farkamhall · Post by **farkamhall** » Sun Jan 27, 2008 9:50 pm

my apologies to you rosco for not reading your post properly, sorry about that. did the EH come in different engine sizes and if so can i use the sump from any of them.thanks

rosco · Post by **rosco** » Sun Jan 27, 2008 9:51 pm

There's three different reds for an EH - 149 low comp - engine number begins with a "Y", 149 high comp - engine no begins with a "h" and the 179 engine number begins with an "M"

Any of these engine sumps will be suitable - I believe them all identical - just make sure that the sump which is fitted is actually an EH sump - it may very well have been fitted to another vehicle and used a different sump -
to identify the sump you are looking for - the "bowl" is flush with the rear of the engine.

I'm tired, FKA - it's well past my bedtime - will clarify this tomorrow and post a pic...............

sorry for any confusion

frats,
Rosco

farkamhall · Post by **farkamhall** » Sun Jan 27, 2008 10:15 pm

confusion was caused by me not you rosco as i am not really up on all these transplant technecalities yet but with the help from you guys i am sure we will get it sorted ot. look forward to seeing the pics.thank you

rosco · Post by **rosco** » Mon Jan 28, 2008 3:18 pm

Hi FKA,
as promised, these are two pix of the information you are seeking.
to further clarify what you are looking for - I don't suppose the "issue" is engine - it is "sump" - you need the "sump" and oil pick up from an EH.
You may very well find one of these on any size red/blue/black engine - depending on what the previous owner used - engine will probably be irrelevant - but you MUST get the EH sump and oil pick up.
As the pic below shows, the sump "bowl" is situated extreme rear, with only the drain pan seal flange extruding....... one pic tells etc.............

first pic is of the sump/trans/draglink etc.
It clearly shows the rear of the sump, along with the HR draglink "dip" facing the front of the sump.
Don't be confused by the colour - it is a "red" motor -
This car has had a grey "grey", a red "grey", a red "red" and now a grey "red" - I got sick of people asking me if it had a "grey" motor in it - I tell them yes, open the bonnet and wait for their response - if they don't "clock" it, I always tell them this story - it usually gets a puzzling response....

Second pic is from many years back whilst stripping the deadener from the entire underside of the floor - it sort of shows how I did the arch from underneath............. it also shows how the rear trans is mounted - this was the "normal" twenty five years ago - now, the CRS chassis rail kit provides a cross-piece running between each side rail on which the trans mounts.....
The arch was very crude in this pic - I ground a lot of those builds off when the engine was out last year......... looks a bit better now............. see above - all but the diff housing floor and rear seat floor have now been "stripped"sanded and re-painted in hammered metal epoxy charcoal grey.........

note the "purpose built" head support whilst labouring for months under there scraping the deadener off............which you can see previously existing under the rear of this pic.

Hope this helps,

frats,
Rosco

farkamhall · Post by **farkamhall** » Mon Jan 28, 2008 5:06 pm

rosco, you are worth your weight in gold mate. many many thanks for your time and effort, very much appreciated and will be of great benefit now i can see what you have done. cheers muchly.

farkamhall · Post by **farkamhall** » Mon Jan 28, 2008 7:36 pm

would this draglink do the job?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HOLDEN-HD-HR-FRO ... dZViewItem

rosco · Post by **rosco** » Mon Jan 28, 2008 8:17 pm

Hi again FKH,
I think we need to establish that you do not need to change the original drag-link if it's in good condition - I only changed mine in the hope that it would improve the "feel" of my steering - it didn't.

Your original will work fine - just check that the ball cups are in good order and it is adjusted correctly.

The item on Ebay, in my opinion, is not worth the effort - it is incomplete - only the centre section looks to be on sale - you will need the two outers as well................

Hope this helps.......

frats,
Rosco

farkamhall · Post by **farkamhall** » Mon Jan 28, 2008 8:27 pm

thanks rosco, advice taken. we are pulling the front end off completely this week to get to some rust in the firewall so will be giving everything a good scrub down and replace everything thats needs it. just to be a pest on the gearbox support where abouts on the trimatic would you suggest bolting it up? thanks

rosco · Post by **rosco** » Mon Jan 28, 2008 9:15 pm

Hi again,
just off to bed - got a late start tomorrow - don't have to get up until just before 04:00..... yippee, sleep in!

Rear trans mount - I'm not sure I understand exactly what your question is, but am of the opinion you are asking where to position the trans mounting bracket?
If so, as you will see in my second pic, mine is an original Rare's Spares (circa 1980) and was bolted through the cabin floor.
I am of the opinion, for engineering purposes, you may very well need an engineering certificate - you'll have to update me on this..............
If you do, then they may require a chassis kit to be fitted - the trans mount goes onto a cross piece positioned between the two chassis rails down each side of the vehicle (it bolts through the front lateral and runs to the front of the rear spring hanger where it is welded in)
When these two "rails" have been fitted, it is just a matter of positioning the trans mount lateral between these rails and welding it in.
The actual trans mount plate (which the transmission rubber mount bolts on to) is welded to the trans mount lateral - this sounds gobbledy-gook - I'm tired again, and in a rush to get to bed.............

Post more tomorrow - I have not done the chassis rail kit (yet) - I have it, but it is not required unless I sell (never!) or hand down ownership and have to transfer it with a roadworthy.............

mail you tomorrow .....

frats,
Rosco

ps - if you are going to remove the sub-frame - I would seriously suggest treating or removal of any rust (I would encourage you to get it cut out and replaced with new steel) then treat the mating surfaces with fishoilene, primer and a good top coating prior to assembly........I do NOT like body deadener - had some dreadful experience with this stuff..........

farkamhall · Post by **farkamhall** » Mon Jan 28, 2008 9:29 pm

thanks rosco, yep, thats what i meant to say, position, not good at long words lol. yes, we are cutting out all the nasty rust sections and replacing with new metal. i think i will need an engineers certificate as we are going over the allowed 15% from a 138 to 186 so gonna have to do it right first time. have a good rest, you certainly deserve it after putting up with my questions. speak to you tomorrow.

Devilrod · Post by **Devilrod** » Tue Jan 29, 2008 12:54 pm

Here's mine prior to final cleanup... Still nowhere near as clean as Rosco's

Pics aren't the clearest but the cars a little on the low side

farkamhall · Post by **farkamhall** » Tue Jan 29, 2008 1:30 pm

many thanks devilrod, very much appreciated as always you guys rock and deserve a medal for all the time and effort you put in helping newbies like me. cheers.

EK JAY · Post by **EK JAY** » Sat Feb 02, 2008 12:03 pm

Hi
Here are a couple of pics of the rear gearbox mount
we made up to fit the 2 speed powerglide im also
having trouble with the drag link (ek) hitting the sump
on full lock.
i have moved the steering i think they call them
bump stop's out and it sovled the problem but it doesnt have
as big of a turning circle as it used to i may have to put a crs
tunnel in so i can lift up the engine a bit more .I modified the
original tunnel but not enough if i lift the motor any higher it
will start hitting

fbekholden.com