Dog legs

[Brett027]

Hi brains trust. Just working on dog legs this week. What is the current thinking about the solid tar in them? Have had to get it all out to make repairs and wondering if they are better without tar/ filler or if there is something that needs to be there there and if so what is best to use?
Many thanks

[rosco]

Hi Brett,
If I may throw some weight into this - avoid tar/deadener/bitumen at all costs.... it's a minefield of a trap to locking moisture to metal...
I nearly lost my floor due to the blasted stuff... took me nearly 10 years to get all of it out of my old bus..... I hand painted nearly 20 litres of the mongrel stuff into the vehicle when I had it all in pieces in 1983.... worst thing I ever did to this car... aside from modifying it.

My suggestion would be to go with fishoilene or what I have just recently picked up on SW-2 from PPC... which is a fishoil like product.
If you want, after that stuff has semi-cured - paint it with an enamel or something to seal it.. then apply what you like over that..
But, I would seriously suggest anyone not to paint that blasted black stuff onto anything but well prepared, coated and sealed metal.... it's a killer for rusting out metal... from the inside..

frats,
Rosco

[Errol62]

Every A pillar bottom I have looked inside has been absolutely chokers with that stuff Brett. They were all badly rusted too. Like Rosco says get rid of it. Open up the drainage passage that runs down between inner sill end and the sheet that the subframe outer bolt head sits on. When welding or overlaying two or more panel sheets, use a zinc rich primer where they touch. The zinc is supposed to melt into the weld pool and help protect it from further rusting.

When painting is complete it’s time to fill the void with multiple applications of fisholene or similar. This assumes there remains some bare steel and or surface rust inside, which is virtually inevitable. If you are able to get paint protection on cle@n steel then cavity wax is said to be preferable, but the oil soaks in to remnant rust and bare metal and neutralises it against further oxidation. Yo can use a rust converter but these generally don’t protect against further rust so still the oil product, either organic or synthetic as Greg is using.


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[Brett027]

Thanks Rosco, Clay. Ok- no tar in pillars. I've got cavity wax standing by so will do the PAR15 paint and then cavity wax inside hollow spaces. I have been using copper and zinc spray pre welding, so all good there. Passenger dog leg has been an absolute nightmare. Followed rust up to top of curve and then found my donar cut was just as bad but full of beautifully sculptured bog. 3 days work. Drivers side almost nothing to do in comparison. Looking forward to simple panel rust repairs after doing 6 pillars and complete floor and braces. Oh - forgot the upcoming rear window lip and parcel shelf replacement....It does end ???

[Errol62]

I thought my Ute had hardly any rust when I got it. Two years later I think I've got it all now.

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[rosco]

My belief is that these models probably came out of the dealer's yards with surface rust starting in the cavities already.
The amount of bitumen applied around the underside of the shroud was a disaster just waiting to happen... I believe the spray painter went in after the bitumen monkey.... evidenced by paint on top of the bitumen... disaster in wait.

I found that by using a thin, flexible dip tube with a fan nozzle fitted to the end - I was able to get into most cavities... I pumped an awful lot of fishoilene into each and every one of them... first blocking up the drainage ports so that the level would "seek" out joints, voids and crevices... left for a day or two - then removed the plugs and allowed the excess to drain out... I did this with every conceivable location I could find.. up into all three pillars on each side, but not as far up as the headlining - it would have stained the PVC coated linen.

I also used a few tubes of butyl-mastic to seal out every gap through which water and crap ingress to could attack... and drilled additional drainage ports to everything I sealed up...

Yes, you'll get to the end of the rust discovery adventure... making certain that it has been either stopped or removed prior to proofing the area will give you the best guarantee that you won't have to revisit issues in many, many years to come (if ever).

frats,
Rosco

[ehsv6]

bilt03.jpg (33.76 KiB) Viewed 489 times

I use this, option of direct spraying or tube and nozzle. Its a rust preventive, fisholene and lanolin combo

[Brett027]

I've not seen that stuff before. Many thanks for posting.
Brett

[Errol62]

My weapon.

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[Brett027]

I hope we don't start getting into who has the biggest gun
Thanks Clay.
.

[Errol62]

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[Brett027]

I knew it!