WA fb special

[mph]

Ah nice one that flat one looks much better, the guy was nice enough to take it back due to it not fitting. I might hold of on the radio until the ac arrives and is fitted up

Sent from Cahawba , Alabama

[Errol62]

these repro lenses:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13991

Aye Patrick


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[mph]

Did a measure up of my rear rims and the diff measurements to work out 7" wide rears.
I measured mine 7" outside to outside lip but rim measurements are from inside the lip wjere the tyre sits I've found out so technically i have 6 inch wide rims
So rear wheel arch is around 9.9 inchs a 8 inch rim will be actually 9" total width plus tire bulge both sides equalling 1 inch thats 10 which will result in a lot of scrubbing. The outer guards have been pumped prior to paint which will work but the tyre tucks up so big bumps or full load of mates will more than likely result in deleteing my white walls off my tyres. So ill go with the safe bet of " 7 inch " rims which will total to 8" wide plus 1" for the tyre bulge leaving me 1/2" each side between tyre and guard on full compression and a bit more on general driving.

Now if anyone can help with what measurements of backspace i need to give to the steel rim guy to make them?



Sent from Cahawba , Alabama

[Blacky]

Mate I would grab a 7" hoop and mount the tyre you plan on running then remove your rear wheels and set it up in the wheel arch then measure down to your wheel face on the drum. that way you will get it spot on in the middle of the wheel well , do both sides because they may not be the same. You can then take it to your wheel guy and get the centres welded in.

[Errol62]

Just realise that body roll will reduce your inside clearance, specially if you don’t mind a bit of hard cornering on the devils elbow like me. When you turn at speed the outside chassis rail drops as the leaf spring compresses, while the inside spring extends. This brings the outside chassis rail closer to the inner tyre edge.

Here is a pissweak diagram to demonstrate:


FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie

[Blacky]

I gather you are looking to achieve the fabled "Crupi stance "

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[Errol62]

Had these made up about 1990 by Adelaide wheel and rim. 7x13 with 121mm backspace. Running 205/65 13 the offset to tyre is 126mm. They barely rubbed on the inside on cornering. The car had 2" lowering blocks.

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[Errol62]

This sounded bit strange until I remembered you're running early Torana axle. These are 70mm narrower so my 126mm offset is equivalent to 91mm in your case, and they still rub slightly on the inside with a 205 tyre. You don't want much narrower tyre on a 7" but they look fat.

I do think the lowering blocks exacerbate this and reset and or flipped springs would present less of an issue. I ran 25mm front sway bar and heavy duty shocks but no rear bar, which would also help.

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[rosco]

Hi,
I don't know whether I put this up before, I have posted it in the past week - but it may have been on another forum.

I fitted 14 x7 Dragways to mine.... had them made up especially by Ray Dunn of Dragway, Kinglake Vic.
I spent quite some time with straight edges and rulers and a borrowed 6"x14" wheel from Dragway before deciding on the 7" rim.

I have an EH diff which is pretty much centre as far as the left and right wheel arches are concerned.

My measurements resulted in me finding that I had 3 5/8" clearance from the brake drum face to the average point of the outer wheel arch inner skin.

These two pix show my measurements... one with wheel and texta written measurements not legible.. the second with on the markings...

Pix -

r lhs 020.jpg (667.35 KiB) Viewed 524 times

r lhs measure 002 mail.jpg (205.31 KiB) Viewed 524 times

r lhs measure 008 mail.jpg (237.02 KiB) Viewed 524 times

r lhs measure 009 mail.jpg (242.58 KiB) Viewed 524 times

I still had rub issues when hitting dips in the road at speed... I fitted deeper bump stops to the over-riders which lifted the vehicle a little, but added much more tension in the over-rider springs... it was only on the odd occasion that there was any further scrubbing heard from the rear.


The issue I found with 7" rims - was not so much the back, but the front. If you set the offset for the rears to keep inside the outer arch - you will find that you will foul the upper ball joint on the front... if you have a ball joint front end. If not, I can't say whether there will be an issue with a king-pin front end, because I don't have one.

I took around 80 pix of all these measurements before Ray and I decided that I could have the 7" rims.. I would seriously suggest making absolutely certain that 14" x 8" rims were going to fit your application - they most certainly would not have fitted mine... EH rear axle, HD ball joint front.

This final pic is of the 14 x 8 with 205/70 14's... vehicle is sitting on axle using stands.... this is unladen ride height.

fitting rear left 001 mail.jpg (228.77 KiB) Viewed 523 times

This is the same wheel at the front - you can see how close the rim is to the upper ball joint body...

f lhs ball joint 006 mail.jpg (111.88 KiB) Viewed 523 times

it does clear the ball joint body, and also the wheel weights - as mentioned, I don't know how this will be with a king pin front end - if that is what you are using.




This pic is the 14 x 7" rim and how close it gets to the tie-rod end... I believe tyres would be an issue with 13" x 7" rim.

f lhs tie rod 001 mail.jpg (235.68 KiB) Viewed 522 times

frats,
Rosco

[rosco]

Ok, took me a while... didn't pick up on it reading the above threads.... you are running early Torrie rear axle.. that will give you greater clearance out to the wheel arches....

Just check though - unless you run different wheels front and rear - your 14 x 8's may foul the upper king pin...... or the tyres will foul the tie-rod end.

frats,
Rosco

[mph]

Hey guys great info thankyou very much for all the input it's top notch info and a great help not just for me but all of us.
I've re read through all these post 4 times ...so far.
With this input I'm going for 14x7s no way 8s will fit with out bigger mods unfortunately. The fronts are staying the stock 14x5 its on a kingpin front ...at the moment.....
One of those wagons light blue from memory from over east at the Mandurah WA national's gave me the extra deep dish inspiration.

I visited a mate this arvo whos has and collects h-ktg cars and bits
He lent my some 14x7s to test fit, and hg std steelies I can get put into 7" bands but unfortunately one ended up being hq, so still need to find another stock hg.
The 14x7s have big old school boots on them but wrong off set to bolt up they needed more dish. So just sat them in the wheel arch to see , both these tyres fit up in the arch but no chance in fitting to actually be driven on. The looked good though
I think I'll be going quite straight no bulge tyre, its more the dish lip im after.
I did get stiffy pants seeing a fat tread under the rear.
The silver ones 235 /60 14
Chromie 245/50 14
Whilst at my mate's his mate also hktg owner rocked up and mentioned over beers hkgt had 3 or so different types of disk brakes over their period and has spare small calipers I can borrow to test fit up of what I need to search for, for when I go hr front and drop spindles.



Sent from Cahawba , Alabama

[mph]

The white rims my 14x6 and tyre size

Sent from Cahawba , Alabama

[mph]

Also called past my old man's for a couple of cold ones , a few little projects he's doing atm

Sent from Cahawba , Alabama

[FireKraka]

Hey Clint if you go onto the Dragway web site under car products they have a chart that shows you how to determine offset, it might help.
Neil

[mph]

Hey Clint if you go onto the Dragway web site under car products they have a chart that shows you how to determine offset, it might help.
Neil

Ill check it out mate thanks.

Sent from Cahawba , Alabama