gpi wrote: Thu Feb 21, 2019 5:57 pm...which makes you wonder what the point of buying an engineered column is, as when you install it in the car it will fail the engineers inspection
The way that the engineer explained it to me is that collapsible columns are designed to protect the driver. In an accident, the internal sliding shafts/external mesh bit of the column smooshes up. This stops the column being driven up into the driver's chest. If the column is hard mounted (using the FB/EK mount), then there is no "smoosh" between the driver and the dash. The drivers chest comes forward and smacks the steering wheel, which doesn't move. The breakaway mounts allow the steering wheel to move forwards towards the firewall, absorbing some of that energy.
Some engineers want the breakaway mount, others do not.
I have also seen engineers who do not require a collapsible column at all, provided there is one (or more) universal joints in the steering shaft close to the firewall. Their logic is that a universal joint will bend, preventing the column being driven into the driver.
Cheers,
Harv
327 Chev EK wagon, original EK ute for Number 1 Daughter, an FB sedan meth monster project and a BB/MD grey motored FED.
Bathroom reno and other “apparently” priority stuff, but life is good and can’t wait to get stuck back into the FB.
We did pick up some “garden art” for my brother though
He decided to put a 454 big block into it for some extra oomph
Geez I'm with Blacky there Bones that is far to good in my mind to be yard art, then again I'm a sucker for starting with something that has rust all over it.
Maybe we should do a midnight spares run Blacky
Neil
Member of WA FB/EK Car Club
Frankenstein EK V6 Ute
The Reverend FB Station Wagon Project
1950's Commer Light Truck (2.5 Ton)
Yep, it looks a lot better in the pic’s. It’s definitely salvageable in the right hands and he did consider a resto. The main shell is not too bad but the front and rear window frames are goosed, along with both front guards and bonnet. The sub frame has more air than metal as well as, of course, inner/outer sills. It’s got a Fred Flintstone floor and you can see the rear tray condition in the pic. There’s no front end or diff or steering column.
I’ll keep giving him a nudge though .....
The Chev block is cracked Greg, he used it as a mock up when he did his ‘57.
I'm onto this build now - too.... more to watch.
So - that bathroom reno must be done by now - or are you as pedantic about detail with it, as you are with this great FB build?
This is a dream thread for anyone who is doing likewise.. I'll put Vicky onto it.. she'll get a lot out of what you post...
59wagon wrote: Fri Jan 25, 2019 3:32 am
The 4 bolts that hold the rear of the front fender on, use a special cupped washer that squashes a rubber grommet thingy into the 1/2” hole of the car body. Three of these washers are missing
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This is true wizardry, John.... I'm simply stunned at your work.. love what you did to manufacture those fender insulators and retainers... magic.
Now - I believe I might know where the missing three are.... along with goodness only knows how many cups and bolts...... in the front of the sill.
Next time you are out there... tie a magnet to a piece of string and very carefully lower it down into the sill..... without touching the metal as you go down.... pull up the string - I almost guarantee you - you'll "catch" something with your magnet "yabby" bait...
