Posting this up for Brett. Plenty of project cars require total replacement of the A-pillar lower section and inner sill end where the outer subframe leg mounts up. Stewart’s Parisian Lilac FB wagon comes to mind, as does my EK van project. In these cases the geometry of the original sheet metal can be a bit of a mystery if you don’t have an un-rusted original as a model.Photo seeks to show where the inner sill bends in from parallel to mount the outer leg square to the number one body member. The inner sill ends are now available from a mob called stark automotive on line somewhere. For the van I made my own, integral with the inner sill as per the factory, albeit my jobs were more function than form. Now you can buy the inner sills complete with the circular indents. From the factory this pressing was in 1.6mm or 18# in the old money.
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
Thanks for reminding me Clay, I spoke to Brett earlier in the week , i have an upside down EK in my back yard - who doesn't ?? I will take some pics of this area and post up tomorrow plus get some measurements for him.
I started with nothing and still have most of it left.
Foundation member #61 of FB/EK Holden club of W.A.
These photos are from my ute which was pretty well intact in this area and only required minor repairs. Unfortunately the satin black finish doesn’t provide very good contrast but hopefully you can see it well enough to get the idea. Couple more photos....
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
To get this bit re-fabricated in the correct spot it really is essential to have the bottom of the A-pillars positioned, which i did on my van by hanging the doors and tacking in to position at the bottom of the B-pillars. The parallel sections of the inners sills need to then be aligned using what ever is left of no1 body member, the front and rear floor join seam box section, and the rear spring hanger chassis ends. The final piece in this jigsaw puzzle is the subframe, which also needs to be in place.
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
Blacky wrote:Thanks for reminding me Clay, I spoke to Brett earlier in the week , i have an upside down EK in my back yard - who doesn't ?? I will take some pics of this area and post up tomorrow plus get some measurements for him.
Now you went and made me feel inadequate Blacky.
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
Hi Clay, Blacky. Photos and measurements very helpful for me -exactly what I was looking for.
I'm sure it will be useful to many others as well.
The Stark Automotive pieces comprise of the outside section pretty much from the bottom guard bolt down and an inner piece that has the door frame curve on it. In my case I had to weld both of them together, mount the combined piece on a new inner sill and tack on to remnants of A pillar and check fit. There is a third piece on the bottom of the A pillar which has holes preset into it that butts up to the floor. This one you still have to fabricate.
I'm very happy with the fit and look of the Stark pieces and am giving them a bit of feedback as I go. They lined up well and look authentic.
However, before all that, I got into serious trouble with my subframe mount that welds onto the inner sill. The shape wasn't right on the one I had bought and it threw out the angle of the sill completely- from the subframe mount point to the firewall Hence the SOS to Blacky and Clay (Errol). It's still not 90 degrees to the ground at the sill end, but butts up to the firewall and not an issue as the guard bottom bolts up nice and square. I'll do better on the drivers side one coming up next now that I know a bit more.
Many thanks to you both for taking me on!
In short: on the inner sill, the mounting surface for the subframe is neither vertical nor parallel with the car's axis. Instead, it's perpendicular to the number 1 body crossmember. I faked up a jig out of some 3x2, a couple of saddle clamps and some 7/16" threaded rod, then G-clamped the jig to the remains of the number 1 body crossmember; and that got the alignment of the inner sill section pretty much right.
Great work Brett and good to hear about the Stark product. I had to hand make the whole lot. Whichever way you go it is important to keep mocking up the subframe and hanging panels to ensure good alignment.
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
Thanks Rob, Clay. For me the sequence of attack was repair subframe first and then remount on body and do sill and A pillar repairs with the sub frame in place. The Stark panels don't come with holes drilled so you need the subframe there to line up the mounting plate ( it looks like you made yours Rob - I took the lazy purchased route but probably took longer to get it right anyway) and then drilled a pilot hole through using the subframe to drill through the inner sill, pillar pieces then the outer sill. Then tack it all in place etc. When I'd finished the bolt went through with a nice snug fit and I know it's pretty right.
Now there are plenty of good photos on the forum, so I won't add to those, but will post a finished picture of the Stark pieces when I have it presentable enough. I've suggested that Starks give some thought to drilling the sub frame and guard holes because it's a handy refrence point if it's possible. I've also suggested to make the inner and "outer" available already welded as one piece for those of us that need both.
I must say it's been hard not to put Wilma on the rotisserie straight away, but got to get the sills and pillars in place first, and then will tidy up welds and tackle every other body panel (yes every panel!!) after the sills are secure. My wife calls it Wilma because like our car, the flintstones' car had no floors either....
Doglegs will be a major drama. Just big empty spaces everywhere. Bright side is there's only 2.
Patches in place today. Quick spray can job to keep it underwraps and now onto B and C pillars. Stark Automotive panels are tidy and easy to manage. Fortunately all my shoddy work will be well hidden when its all back together.
Attachments
Stark Automotive A Pillar patches in place1.jpg (89.81 KiB) Viewed 1542 times
Stark Auto A Pillar patches in place2.jpg (109.64 KiB) Viewed 1542 times
Great. I didn’t know about the outer a pillar panels. They weren’t around when I tackled this area on my van project. Certainly will save some time. Looking good Brett.
FB ute fixer upper, EK van on rotisserie
getting my FB ute on the road
EK van on rotisserie
Photo seeks to show where the inner sill bends in from parallel to mount the outer leg square to the number one body member. The inner sill ends are now available from a mob called stark automotive on line somewhere. For the van I made my own, integral with the inner sill as per the factory, albeit my jobs were more function than form. Now you can buy the inner sills complete with the circular indents. From the factory this pressing was in 1.6mm or 18# in the old money.
