harvs ek 327 wagon

[FireKraka]

Thanks Harv

Neil

[BILLY BLACKARROW]

Harv : You are going down the same track as me
I am wondering what wipper motor you are useing as I have used brett _f from the FE FC forum (Brett_f's Commodore Wiper Conversion) sorry i cant post a link to it . My problem is it is right over the disibretor and I don't know if i can turn it enough to clear and weather it will park in the correct position .I am thinking to turn it 90 degrees

IMG_1854[1].JPG (1.19 MiB) Viewed 595 times

If anyone can help

[Harv]

G'day Billy,

I've got a two-speed wiper conversion that was built by one of the FE/FC forum guys. It's based on a Telstar motor, and retains the original type switch knob. Clearance around the dizzy is pretty good (apologies - I don't have any photos with me). That bit that does worry me is if I ever have to get the dizzy out. It looks mighty tight around the plenum underside, at least without pulling the whole Chev motor out.

Cheers,
Harv

[FireKraka]

Hi Billy
Contact Paul (Chopped) I was talking to him the other day and I'm pretty sure that he put his wiper motor under the dash but not sure of the details mate.

I have done the Brett-f modified commodore one on my FC and the motor parks no worries mine is in a similar position to yours.

Hope this helps
Neil

[Errol62]

You should be able to get the wipers to park in the right spot by rotating the crank on the motor shaft Billy, so turning the motor 90 could be an option.
Cheers
Clay


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[fcv8]

Hi Harv
Just a couple of questions for you.
1. Whats the length of the tailshaft your using centre of uni to centre uni?
2. With the vn handbrake cable how did you mount the outer cable sleeve to the body?
I did ths years ago on a previous car but cant remember a lot of bourbon consumed since then.
Cheers Fcv8

[Harv]

I’m not sure of the driveshaft distance, but learnt the hard way that it is very driveline dependent. I had a whole new driveshaft made up by Sydney Driveline Services, and had it running on the car. Stripped everything down to get it painted, and bought a rebuilt TH350 box. Put the engine and box back into the car, only to find out the driveshaft was now too short. Learnt the hard way that TH350’s came out in three different extension lengths (6”, 9” and 12”), and my new one was shorter. Can’t easily swap the extensions (unlike a grey crashbox). Had to get another new driveshaft made.

For the VP Commodore handbrake cable I used the existing EK brackets on the rear subframe to hold the two cable ends. For the front of the cable, I made some L-brackets that keep the front of the cable off the floor, driveshaft and exhaust. The engineer was not happy with my brackets, so the brother-in-law made me some new, heavy-duty (boilermaker-rated) gusseted ones.

Handbrake cable clearance to tailshaft gained via new, stronger, gusseted retaining brackets.JPG (658.9 KiB) Viewed 533 times

Cheers,
Harv

[BILLY BLACKARROW]

Thanks for your help guys I will have a play around with it just hope it's a easy fix ( murrfy's law say's it won't be ).

[Harv]

Fixed the high beams... new Narva relay had crapped out.

Went to fix the faulty gauge/shifter lights. Traced the wiring back, all looked ok. Pulled the dash out, pulled the lighting switch. Found the lighting switch had a bent tab where the gauge lights get power. It’s supposed to look like the top one in the photo, not the bottom. Tab had shorted out on the lighting switch body... every time I turned on the headlights, I had a fault to earth. Fire waiting to happen.

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[Harv]

Went to straighten the tab, and managed to shatter the ceramic insulator for the gauge light dimmer. Swore. Twice. Broke out the rest of the ceramic and resistor wire. Connected gauge lights direct - no dimmer. No great loss, and I guess gets rid of the dodgy dimmer resistor.

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[Harv]

Refitted light switch - all good. Stuck an LED in the shifter light, bent it to better play on the indicator quadrant (LED is a lot more directional than the old incandescent bulb). Arced my test light on the back of the headlight switch, melted the test light tip and dropped the molten slag onto me. Swore again.

Looked at the Speedo while it was out. Stuck a length of old cable into it, couldn’t turn by hand. Stuck the cable offcut into the drill, and got the Speedo unsiezed. Made a horrible squall. Gave it a squirt of mechanic-in-a-can, which quietened it down. Suspect the seized Speedo did bad things to the cable in the car. Still have to check that end, once I get the car running again.

Got the heater in. Pulled the glovebox and speaker grille out to fit the passengers demister tube. Felt like I was pulling more apart than putting back together. Underestimated the demister ducting... need one more length. SuperCheap no longer stock it, ordered it from Repco. Took out a second mortgage to pay for it. Started fighting with the heater tap cable. Bent the cable. Cut a new length of Bowden cable. Rejigged the control lever switch (this crap was easier before paint and panel). . Need a #10-32x1” bolt and some screw-mount cable ties to finish the heater.

Worked out I had wired the radio on the wrong side of the wiper arms. Have to disconnect and reconnect it. Guess it’s hetter to find it out before the wipers tear the radio wiring out.

[Harv]

Worked out the weather shield mounts (five mounts per side). One fits, three have to be cut to fit. Crap design for new weathershields. The fourth mount is riveted on... the rivet rubs on the door paint. Will have to drill it out and magic up a solution.

[59wagon]

Sounds like one of those "one step forwards, three steps backwards" days, Harv Keep persisting mate, you're doing a great job.

Cheers,

John

[Harv]

Fixed up the heater controls so that they now work. Still not happy with the firewall grommet for the heater hose. Can't find an original one, so may have to Sikaflex the repro one in.

Got the stereo wiring re-routed so it doesn't rub on the wipers.

Fixed the oil pressure light. The LED bulb bases interfere with the bulb holder. I hadn't pushed it in enough, and the LED bulb had partially popped out.

Fixed the intermittant horn. I had made a terminal connection up behind the speedo. The old Torana column wiring was brittle, and when I stripped the wire I had reduced the multiple copper filaments in the wire to only a few filaments... they struggled to take the horn current. Reterminated, and all good.

Rewired the vacuum pump for the brakes, and found my mistake. Hobbs switches like a power and an earth wire. They don't like it when some turkey (who looks a lot like me) wires them up with two earths. Who knows what I was thinking when I wired that. Fixed the power properly so it was wired through the battery isolater too. Brake pump now cycles up nicely. Slightly noisy, but quieter than the damn Holley fuel pump.

Got the peep mirror on. It will mean that you have to look through the driver's weathershield. Rego might not like that, so the weathershields can stay off for now. Have to install the fancy nylon bolts in the weathershield anyway (have them on order).

Measured and prepped up for the adjustable brake proportioning valve (double checked I had fittings before I cut the line).

Steeling myself up to sort out the wiper motor which now blows 25A fuses. Hoping it is a simple wiring fault.


Getting closer.

[59wagon]

Very productive Harv. Doing all the small stuff that takes ages