My new Fb

[FireKraka]

Come on John pull your finger out you can do it for the nationals mate.
Neil

[59wagon]

hows progress John , do you think you will have her on the road for the Nationals mate ????

Hi Blacky, I’ve done a few things which I’ll post up over the next week or so.
Unfortunately, I doubt I’ll have her ready for the Nat’s. While under the car doing brakes and kingpins and stuff, I noticed the repairs that had been done on the k-frame looked a bit suspect. I got the pick hammer out and found stuff like this



It’s not just a matter of replacing with off the shelf parts as some of the upper sections also look like a spaghetti colander, including around the front cross member mounting points where the four bolts and insulators go. So I’ve got some metalwork ahead of me, unless I get hold of a good replacement frame. To do the job right I’m thinking I’ll have to pull the motor and whole front end off.

Cheers,

John



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[59wagon]

Come on John pull your finger out you can do it for the nationals mate.
Neil

Thanks for the encouragement, Neil. I haven’t given up hope and I’ll give it a crack but trying to be realistic too.

[mph]

The ole domino's effect.
keep at it mate

[Errol62]

Pesky rust
Keep at it mate


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[59wagon]

The ole domino's effect.

You’re spot on there! I’m already thinking “Well, with the motor out and front end off, I may as well do that, and this, oh - and that .....” together with any other surprises that pop up. NAH! Just get it roadworthy for the Nationals!

[59wagon]

When I was sorting the horn issues a while back, two of the causes were the broken contact spring and it’s insulator.



To fix the contact, I heated the copper plunger to remove the soldered in broken braid and replaced it with some desoldering, or wicking, braid.




I also desoldered the remnants from the copper contact at the other end and repaired that.




Next was to tape up the insulator and a “forming” rod to stop the epoxy from getting where it shouldn’t be.




Once it set, I “machined” it in the pedestal drill lathe using a file and emery cloth.



A lick of paint and done.



When I removed the steering wheel, you may recall in a different thread, I lost a ball bearing when I got too inquisitive about how the indicator mechanism worked.



I got a new steelie and put it all back together, replaced the steering wheel with 10-15lbs torque on the nut as per the manual, fiddled with the horn adjustment screws to get it to work in all spots and then tested it.
You can see the horn making a noise in the picture as I press the horn ring



Cheers,

John



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[59wagon]

I also did a radiator flush with some gunk from Supercheap and it wasn’t as dirty as I expected. I also added their corrosion inhibitor.
Checked and replaced the air filter, and cleaned and painted the air cleaner snout as it somehow had rust on the inside.




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[59wagon]

The left indicators were working only occasionally - normally a sign of poor contact. The front was in pretty good nick and had a quick clean. The rear globe, though, was seized in the holder which was full of crap. I had to damage the whole unit to remove it. I replaced these with a new holder and globe but performance was pretty much the same.
Onto the flasher unit.



The flasher itself tested ok, so I removed and pulled apart the base unit that the flasher plugs into. One of the terminals in particular was pretty filthy, so with a good clean back to shiny metal, I now had working indicators.



Cheers,

John


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[Errol62]

Fun fun fun. I have hoarded any horn contact and insulator bits I’ve come across over the years, realising how precious they are and being one of the first things I played with when I first got my sedan in 87.


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[59wagon]

Fun fun fun. I have hoarded any horn contact and insulator bits I’ve come across over the years, realising how precious they are .....

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 1862985364

Precious? Ya reckon?

[CHOPPED]

i havnt seen you for a few months mate but that pic of you sitting in the front seat
faarrk you lost some weight

[59wagon]

Pulled the front bumper off on the way to getting to the chassis repairs and found a few things to do. Both over riders weren’t sitting right



Looks like it’s a result of a bingle or two, as there were a few dents and bends around the place which I managed to bring back to almost normal.



















There was a fair bit of rust around, with some heavy pitting



I gave everything a good clean, used a rust converter, then etch primed, primed and painted. I used a silver on the inside of the chrome bits, and chassis black on the rest.







Put it all back together and the over riders sat a lot better





Cheers,

John


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[59wagon]

A few weeks ago I tackled the kingpin and outer upper pivot pin looseness I had. After advice from Rob (Ardiesse) as a temporary fix, I loosened the rh pivot pin locknut and backed off the bolt a quarter turn - and it worked!





Unfortunately, I now could feel a slight wobble in the kingpin

I then moved to the lh kingpin. Again from Rob, I cleaned the area, checked the cotter pin locknut was tight and gave the pin a couple of good whacks with a 1/4” pin punch and hammer







No budging here

I removed the knuckles and decided to bite the bullet and bought a kingpin set and outer pivot pin set for both sides. Also got a reamer out on special.





Here’s the setup I used and the axles stands under the lower control arms.





Removing the knuckles and kingpins wasn’t too bad, though I had to grind a slice in one of the grease caps to get it out as the knuckle had been centre popped to hold the cap in.









I also got a seal set and removed the lower pins and bushings. Had to use a Nasco extra long spanner for this - they were a bit tighter than the ~100ft/lbs of torque mentioned in the manual.







After a good clean ......



... I got to the reaming stage. I didn’t bother replacing the bushes as they appeared in good nick and tight, and I’d have to ream the new ones anyway.
I didn’t have a piloted reamer, so took it slow and steady. I don’t know how many times I screwed that reamer up and down, but it was at least a squillion times, adjusting a tiny bit each time.





I used a micrometer until I got close, but got the final fit by “feel”. I couldn’t turn the knuckle by holding the assembly in both hands, but it was firm when in the vice and felt fine on the car when reinstalled.
A tolerance of <0.004” was stated in the manual for the gap between the bearing and knuckle. The shims in the kit were 0.008” and put me within tolerance on one of the knuckles, though when I did the other side, these were too thick so I made one from some brass shim material I have.





The cotter pin didn’t go in as far as the original and I put this down to the 0.010” oversized kingpins used.



Cleaned and fit the grease nipples



Grease in the top and bottom and caps fitted. I had to do a bit of pencil grinding to remove the burrs left by the centre popping





At one stage after I’d reamed the bushes and fit the kingpin, I thought I’d stuffed up as the pin alignment was out compared to the knuckle. It was late at night and, in a bit of a panic, I sent Blacky at EK Mart an sos for a spare knuckle. He replied the following day (great service at this joint) saying he had one, but in the meantime I had a rethink and measured up, realising it was supposed to be on the piss - knobhead!

Next was installing the new upper outer pivot kits .....











The last picture above shows the knuckle fitted left of centre a fair bit, which doesn’t look right but that’s how it was when I got it so I put it back the same. It’s also where it “naturally” wanted to be without forcing it towards the centre. Any thoughts on this?? Hopefully the wheel alignment process will sort all that out.

Then cleaning and refitting the original outer lowers and new seals.





Everything torqued as per the manual







That’s it for now.

Oh, went for a bit of a fish at Jurien Bay with some workmates for a few days just after this. Here’s some shots of the guys and our pickings.












A great time






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[Blacky]

nice work mate, I don't know how you can pull something off and leave the rest - I wish I could I woul dbe - oh well , may as well pull the wishbones off and paint them and the springs - hmm , now the rest of the crossmember is the only bit not done , better yank that too ...... and the next thing you know is the car is a bare shell and theres piles of parts stacked up to be cleaned and painted