Anyone any tips on how to fit the front trim & windscreen rubber, do you fit the rubber round the glass then fit the trim in the rubber, or fit the trim in the rubber then fit the rubber/trim round the glass or is the trim left until the screen is fitted to the car.
I'm not fitting the screen to the car - I'll leave that for the gurus
screen rubber
seal
the manual says to fit the seal to glass and put the trim in the seal tie strings around to hold seal to screen and then fit to car with another cord/string in the pinch weld groove of the seal you know thump it gently in and second dude pulls the string to get the rubber in the cab i dont think you would eva be able to get the trim in once screen is fitted just would not go
when they start building them like that again i will buy a new car of them
gday blue ute
been down this road with our project, the best tip I can give you is: use the bible (FB/EK workshop manual) - worth its weight in gold!
its all layed out, step by step
1. fit rubber to glass
2. insert reveal moulding into the L shape groove
3. use two or more lengths of (thin) approx 3mm cord to temporarily hold rubber and moulding in place - (tied around glass & mouldings top to bottom)
4. insert a thicker cord (approx 5mm) into the body flange cavity of the weatherstrip all the way round, leaving the ends protruding centrally at the lower edge, then tape ends to inside of w/screen
5. apply a bead of sealer completely around the base of the w/screen opening flange, also apply a bead on each side of the w/screen opening flange
6. with the aid of an assistant, carefully place w/screen assy. centrally in w/screen opening
7. while pressing firmly from outside, have the assistant on the inside slowly pull cord from the centre position to each lower corner of the w/screen to seat lip of rubber over bottom flange of opening, then pull cord up both sides and towards top centre of w/screen
8. then seal on the outside of w/screen, between glass and outer lip of weatherstrip - all the way around
clean off excess sealer with prepsol/white spirit
thats basically it, it took me a few go's (in & out) but its sitting "pretty"
also its a bit easier to understand with the aid of pictures, so if you can access a w/shop manual - it will become clearer
hope this helps
regards ray
been down this road with our project, the best tip I can give you is: use the bible (FB/EK workshop manual) - worth its weight in gold!
its all layed out, step by step
1. fit rubber to glass
2. insert reveal moulding into the L shape groove
3. use two or more lengths of (thin) approx 3mm cord to temporarily hold rubber and moulding in place - (tied around glass & mouldings top to bottom)
4. insert a thicker cord (approx 5mm) into the body flange cavity of the weatherstrip all the way round, leaving the ends protruding centrally at the lower edge, then tape ends to inside of w/screen
5. apply a bead of sealer completely around the base of the w/screen opening flange, also apply a bead on each side of the w/screen opening flange
6. with the aid of an assistant, carefully place w/screen assy. centrally in w/screen opening
7. while pressing firmly from outside, have the assistant on the inside slowly pull cord from the centre position to each lower corner of the w/screen to seat lip of rubber over bottom flange of opening, then pull cord up both sides and towards top centre of w/screen
8. then seal on the outside of w/screen, between glass and outer lip of weatherstrip - all the way around
clean off excess sealer with prepsol/white spirit
thats basically it, it took me a few go's (in & out) but its sitting "pretty"
also its a bit easier to understand with the aid of pictures, so if you can access a w/shop manual - it will become clearer
hope this helps
regards ray
reveal mouldings
Hi Blue Ute,
I was fortunate to live next door to a windscreen fitter - he has now moved but I helped him fit my rear window - front one yet to be done, by the same chap - he did an excellent job and was very grateful for some help to fit it................. modern windows are a breeze - he says............
You will find great resistance to fitting our windows by current tradies - they are a pain in the ( insert anything here ).
You must fit the reveal moulding prior to fitting the glass assembly into the body aperture - it won't go in after the window is fitted.
Only the corner covers and central joiner are fitted later.
We used some (very little) liquid soap to make it easier to fit the moulding into it's "L" shaped recess in the rubber - do NOT use this on the aperture seal surface or rubber.
We used butyl-mastic (grey or black - your choice) and caulked both the glass channel and the aperture channel - was also thinly coated the glass and applied a bead around the body aperture.
Use a length of thin (strong) cord around the rubber in the body cavity of the rubber seal (sounds a bit crude - doesn't it?) commencing at the centre of the bottom then completely around and overlap itself by six inches or so - make sure to slightly overlap this to ensure it doesn't "pull" out before "lipping" the rubber over the body aperture when you start to draw on your cord.
Secondly use another few lengths of cord across the rubber/glass/trim from top to bottom to hold to hold it all together after the main cord.
These other lengths are removed just prior to reaching them as you work the rubber over the aperture lip.
Remove your internal sun visors and mirror and take off the wipers.
Place something across the rear of the bonnet and guards - remove or cover the aerial and external rear guard mounted mirrors if they are likely to be damaged.
Have someone help you from inside the cabin.
When you are ready to fit it, check around the aperture again making sure there is sealant all the way around - the sides and just above and below the corners are critical - this is where most of your water is going to be air forced. The lower section on each side is where most water will naturally drain at rest - check them thoroughly for sealant - doesn't matter if you over do it a bit - you are going to remove the excess - just try and keep it away from the head lining as much as possible - won't damage it, but must be removed carefully without using a solvent which will damage the material.
Make sure your headlining is secure - you are going to pull the cord and rubber over it as you finish off.
Position the window assembly taking care not to bump, scratch or remove anything.
From the outside, keep plenty of pressure on the window. Have the person inside slowly draw on the cord causing the rubber to flex over the aperture lip.
Work across each lower face at the same time.
It is important the the assembly presses down as you go or you will have difficulty when you reach the upper corners and finally try to get the top section to fit.
Some go in easy, others somewhat less - I'm told.......... depends if that little Irishman is going to make an appearance.............
Don't rush it, just work slowly but firmly - butyl-mastic has a very thick viscosity - it will "ooze" out, but at its pace - keep plenty of pressure with your hands on it from outside. You may need permission to remove rings to prevent scratching your new glass or paintwork ..............
Go carefully around the lower corners and up the sides.
If necessary "bump" the window using the palm of your hand but only enough to "force the rubber into position to "lip" the aperture as you go around.
Finally finish at the top. You may need to "bump" a little firmer up there - but by no means bang or use any object - I have heard of people using a rubber mallet............ probably fine for those who have a "feel" for it - I much preferred to use our hands and take that little extra bit of time.......
If you get the top section in without any grief - you have been spared.
"Work" the rubber and sealant to extrude only the excess from both the glass and aperture sides of the rubber. A small plastic scraper is great for removing large excesses as you go - the back of your thumb-nail when it comes down to the paint and moulding.
Be very careful with that precious headlining.
When you have got the bulk of the excess removed, clean up with a soft rag moistened (not soaked) with white spirit (Bunnings have it) - DON'T overdo the white spirit - you don't want to create voids in the sealant.
I would suggest leaving it a few days before washing/ polishing/ waxing - we need for the stuff to extrude at its pace - it won't completely harden but will skin over in a few days depending on weather etc.
You may find on hot days, that sealant will "weep" again - this is normal - don't be tempted to "dig" under the rubber seal to remove any - it will contract in cold weather and may break the seal creating a void. Only remove the excess as it presents itself.
Finally, fit the corner trims by first "sliding" them along one section the bringing them back over the other.
Those lower dog-leg screw holes are one of the first places to "grow" - make sure you have repaired any damage before fitting your window.
The centre section at the top has a retainer which holds the moulding back against the body - make sure it fits into both sides of the moulding.
A little butyl-mastic over anything "clean" will keep the elements away from these places - do NOT be tempted to seal around the lower edges of the moulding/body gaps - any water/crud/dirt must be free to escape from within - make sure the lower edge especially at the corners are always clear to let the aperture drain.
Think that's about it - compared to fitting modern windscreens - you may now understand why window fitters shudder when you tell them what you have.......................
My chap didn't want me to let it be known he is good at these - I will get him to fit my other window when that project comes up...........
frats,
Rosco
sorry Ray, whilst I was composing - you were posting......... think we are singing the same song - mines just an overture...........
I was fortunate to live next door to a windscreen fitter - he has now moved but I helped him fit my rear window - front one yet to be done, by the same chap - he did an excellent job and was very grateful for some help to fit it................. modern windows are a breeze - he says............
You will find great resistance to fitting our windows by current tradies - they are a pain in the ( insert anything here ).
You must fit the reveal moulding prior to fitting the glass assembly into the body aperture - it won't go in after the window is fitted.
Only the corner covers and central joiner are fitted later.
We used some (very little) liquid soap to make it easier to fit the moulding into it's "L" shaped recess in the rubber - do NOT use this on the aperture seal surface or rubber.
We used butyl-mastic (grey or black - your choice) and caulked both the glass channel and the aperture channel - was also thinly coated the glass and applied a bead around the body aperture.
Use a length of thin (strong) cord around the rubber in the body cavity of the rubber seal (sounds a bit crude - doesn't it?) commencing at the centre of the bottom then completely around and overlap itself by six inches or so - make sure to slightly overlap this to ensure it doesn't "pull" out before "lipping" the rubber over the body aperture when you start to draw on your cord.
Secondly use another few lengths of cord across the rubber/glass/trim from top to bottom to hold to hold it all together after the main cord.
These other lengths are removed just prior to reaching them as you work the rubber over the aperture lip.
Remove your internal sun visors and mirror and take off the wipers.
Place something across the rear of the bonnet and guards - remove or cover the aerial and external rear guard mounted mirrors if they are likely to be damaged.
Have someone help you from inside the cabin.
When you are ready to fit it, check around the aperture again making sure there is sealant all the way around - the sides and just above and below the corners are critical - this is where most of your water is going to be air forced. The lower section on each side is where most water will naturally drain at rest - check them thoroughly for sealant - doesn't matter if you over do it a bit - you are going to remove the excess - just try and keep it away from the head lining as much as possible - won't damage it, but must be removed carefully without using a solvent which will damage the material.
Make sure your headlining is secure - you are going to pull the cord and rubber over it as you finish off.
Position the window assembly taking care not to bump, scratch or remove anything.
From the outside, keep plenty of pressure on the window. Have the person inside slowly draw on the cord causing the rubber to flex over the aperture lip.
Work across each lower face at the same time.
It is important the the assembly presses down as you go or you will have difficulty when you reach the upper corners and finally try to get the top section to fit.
Some go in easy, others somewhat less - I'm told.......... depends if that little Irishman is going to make an appearance.............
Don't rush it, just work slowly but firmly - butyl-mastic has a very thick viscosity - it will "ooze" out, but at its pace - keep plenty of pressure with your hands on it from outside. You may need permission to remove rings to prevent scratching your new glass or paintwork ..............
Go carefully around the lower corners and up the sides.
If necessary "bump" the window using the palm of your hand but only enough to "force the rubber into position to "lip" the aperture as you go around.
Finally finish at the top. You may need to "bump" a little firmer up there - but by no means bang or use any object - I have heard of people using a rubber mallet............ probably fine for those who have a "feel" for it - I much preferred to use our hands and take that little extra bit of time.......
If you get the top section in without any grief - you have been spared.
"Work" the rubber and sealant to extrude only the excess from both the glass and aperture sides of the rubber. A small plastic scraper is great for removing large excesses as you go - the back of your thumb-nail when it comes down to the paint and moulding.
Be very careful with that precious headlining.
When you have got the bulk of the excess removed, clean up with a soft rag moistened (not soaked) with white spirit (Bunnings have it) - DON'T overdo the white spirit - you don't want to create voids in the sealant.
I would suggest leaving it a few days before washing/ polishing/ waxing - we need for the stuff to extrude at its pace - it won't completely harden but will skin over in a few days depending on weather etc.
You may find on hot days, that sealant will "weep" again - this is normal - don't be tempted to "dig" under the rubber seal to remove any - it will contract in cold weather and may break the seal creating a void. Only remove the excess as it presents itself.
Finally, fit the corner trims by first "sliding" them along one section the bringing them back over the other.
Those lower dog-leg screw holes are one of the first places to "grow" - make sure you have repaired any damage before fitting your window.
The centre section at the top has a retainer which holds the moulding back against the body - make sure it fits into both sides of the moulding.
A little butyl-mastic over anything "clean" will keep the elements away from these places - do NOT be tempted to seal around the lower edges of the moulding/body gaps - any water/crud/dirt must be free to escape from within - make sure the lower edge especially at the corners are always clear to let the aperture drain.
Think that's about it - compared to fitting modern windscreens - you may now understand why window fitters shudder when you tell them what you have.......................
My chap didn't want me to let it be known he is good at these - I will get him to fit my other window when that project comes up...........
frats,
Rosco
sorry Ray, whilst I was composing - you were posting......... think we are singing the same song - mines just an overture...........
Last edited by rosco on Wed Dec 26, 2007 2:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Thanks guys,
Wasn't sure the proceedure fitting the rubber/trim as I want to leave them on the screen so the rubber takes a shape before fitting the screen to the car.
Actually fitting the screen to the car - HHHHMMMM not sure (but noted instructions) but thinking I'll leave it to the windscreen guru's
Wasn't sure the proceedure fitting the rubber/trim as I want to leave them on the screen so the rubber takes a shape before fitting the screen to the car.
Actually fitting the screen to the car - HHHHMMMM not sure (but noted instructions) but thinking I'll leave it to the windscreen guru's
anyone know anyone in sydney, i had mine fitted by a clown at mannies mobile windscreens and if i stick my finger in the gap he has left me between the piller and the glass i can actually pull the window out.
I pose the question.. is our problem the tradies or the repo rubbers?
I pose the question.. is our problem the tradies or the repo rubbers?
master of nothing, leader of nobody.