WA fb special

[mph]

I have a rubber seal (almost rectangle shape) between the motor and the fire wall.

Rick.

A rubber Forsale Rick or in general they have one.

Edit , re borrowed my mates ek wiper motor and arms to do some comparing with my two left arms fb arms and ek motor etc
his has a rubber seal but i cant find any online or at rares might have to make one.





It seems rare spares has every rubber,nut and bolt for fc fe ej eh but hardly nothing for fb ek , surely there is a market for still for parts,a few times now ive tried to get things and no luck only avl for earlier or later models.
So for some new rubbers on the wiper shafts that poke through to the arms ive used these circle rubbers i think from a early &*#@ and buzzed the outside down the center is the same size as the fb ek . good fit

[mph]

I got the ek wiper motor with the fb arms going but the driver arm was hitting the top bracket that holds all the steering wheel and pedal box etc . so put a few hacksaw cuts in the arm and reshaped it to the exact same as a ek arm ive borrowed and welded the cuts back up installed and she works a treat.

Im looking at upgrading the headlights in the old fb
In my landcruiser ute i installed more powerful globes which ended up melting the wiring and globe plugs .
So being that the fb is some 45 years older than my landcruiser i dare say the oem wiring of the fb wont be up to scratch for some modern day h4 globes maybe 55/60 watt
im looking at installing a fuse block and single feeds to 4 relays hidden under the guard.
ive sketched up a wiring diagram but im not sure if it will work or how holdens wired
*Are the fb headlights switched with negative or positive etc
*what would be the current draw per globe so i can work out the fuse block cable feed size and wiring size to the globes
any input would be great just trying to prevent burnt wires and no headlights at night

[In the Shed]

G'day,
Yes that wiring diagram will work and provide fused protection for each headlight. In essence the headlight switch & dipper switch (switching the positive) will operate the coil of the relay which will be negligible current. Using the formula of
P=V.I Where P is power in watts, V is volts & I is current in amps, you have the below for a 60watt globe:

60watts = 12v x I
I = 60/12
I = 5 amps

This is the same arrangement I made on my FB when I ran 90w/130w quart halogen. They were bloody awesome, only prob the genny had a bit of trouble keeping up in stop start traffic!

Regards
Stephen

[mph]

G'day,
Yes that wiring diagram will work and provide fused protection for each headlight. In essence the headlight switch & dipper switch (switching the positive) will operate the coil of the relay which will be negligible current. Using the formula of
P=V.I Where P is power in watts, V is volts & I is current in amps, you have the below for a 60watt globe:

60watts = 12v x I
I = 60/12
I = 5 amps

This is the same arrangement I made on my FB when I ran 90w/130w quart halogen. They were bloody awesome, only prob the genny had a bit of trouble keeping up in stop start traffic!

Regards
Stephen

Perfect Stephen thanks for that mate.

[mph]

For the interior i was thinking about going the darker green but seeing some at a car show ive decided against it.
Im looking at oem style but with grey or red at first i thought red might have been a bit freaky far out but i chucked a spare red fb special back seat in and not sure if its completely wrong,to many beers or im just used to looking at it now and think its okay .
Any thoughts on grey or red against the colleen green .
Thanks fellas

[Trev]

I think a red interior looks good in most classic cars.
Not sure about grey, it's a good neutral colour but can look too modern.

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[Trev]

Did you find out the original colour interior for a colleen green car?

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[Errol62]

Not sure if this helps but have a look at my post here:

GMH Body Id Plate, Chassis & engine No ..... Please post.
FB 215-178-S
Trim 365-802
Paint 256-9690
Subframe FB2598-S
Manual car running L series's block. Sourced from Coffs Harbour.
http://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtop ... 51#p220397

Car is 215 standard Belmont green which I think is similar. Interior appears to have been a darkish blue, code: 365-802.


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[mph]

I think red might be the go.
I didnt find the original colour officially that came colleen green, but i think from pics on the net it was the dark green which im not to keen on now.
I clicked on the link you posted mate but all the pics say photo not found mate so not sure.

[mph]

laying under the dash looking at wiring up reverse lights ,auto lock out and stuff under the dash ive come across these two blue wire and a purple wire (sitting on top of the screw driver) im wondering what they are for, as in the 3rd pic they are soldered and the blue wire going off to the right is cut and only about 30mm long then a bare end
I put the paper behind to make the camera pick the colours up,this join is to the right of the column above the handbrake area.
im just concerned about the solder and the short cut blue wire pointing right and dont want any gremlins to appear or not appear if its cut.
So does anyone what they are for

[thropzed]

If you look at Thommo's post here http://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3418
The two blue wires look to be oil switch and indicators?
Could be wrong.
Cheers TheoZ..................

[Blacky]

Have a look here mate - http://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3418

I reckon red for the interior would look good - I have a real nice set of original red and white door cards in EKmart if you go that way ...

[NoMAD]

in a few months you can have the original trim off my seats if you want, if your not in a rush... you can see it here (sort of)

http://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtop ... &start=120

the front covers already off, i cant remember exact condition buts it pretty good if i recall, might need a slight stitch here or there.

cheers
Nathan

[mph]

Fellas im interested in both that would be and get things moving in that dept.
As above i have the red back seat which needs to be restitched anyways so might just pull the fleck out of it but the main thing to find would be (NoMads) red front covers or even just red front fleck to use and new trim for the rest of the seats the frame needs new foam and stuff to and Blackys door trims. New trim for the wheel arches and parcel shelf. hood lining just needs a wipe clean.
Pm's sent

[mph]

Ive been trying to do lots of the little jobs that need ticking off the list.
Made up the rear brake lines for the lj diff with double flares and installed those little brake pad to cyl push rods.
Ever single light has been changed to led including the quadrant globe
On with the EH uni to the tail shaft to suit the new center and diff back in again.
Gave the bump stops some love to , im sure they will end up with a little more timing later on




Then onto the number plate lights.
I initially was thinking of some perspex on the out side to replace my cracked ones with some "led bolts" as they are called but it didnt look the best.
so i flipped the perspex behind the bumpet bit marked it up installed the bolt led and small screw hole .
It will do for now untill i can get some new ones.
two bits of perspex cut to shape


not 100% on them they light the boot up a bit not to sure if the oem ones do the same


Opinions welcome
: Note tail lights have not been tinted
Installing the bolt for the red walking stick breather pipe unsure of bolt size i walked over to a spare blue motor to test the bolt size, found one all good trying to intstall it in the red no go.
why would they bother changing bolt sizes