Anyone seen this one before or have a better option for refinishing the floor of a car and the underside ?
http://www.rustbullet.com.au/epages/whi ... ops/Dartec
Rust Treatment
-
Stuart Bowyer
- Posts: 197
- Joined: Sat May 21, 2005 7:29 pm
- State: NOT ENTERED
trials
Hi,
I don't know if you would consider this, but my suggestion on any "new" product is not to go full monty.
I would suggest testing in a place which can either be easily replaced or repaired. I wished I had done that when plastering all that body deadener on.
The result being it has taken me ten years to finally get back to the metal and repair the damage..............
I now often make sacrificial "test" pieces for extreme exposure.
After a few months, remove the wonder product and compare pix taken before and after............ just something to consider.
As Parisenne 62 mentioned with his new wonder rust remover - if the labels guaranteed to do what they stated, there would be a brand name only and a chemical warning. Also very very "lateral" when you read product information - we have to remember very often a "trained words-smith and solicitor" are consulted to "review" products.............. sorry to be a doubting Thomas - no offence to Thomas's on the site, but this little black duck ain't fallin' for it again - not with the beak still on the back of my neck!
Please keep us informed on your findings - every now and again, one actually does what it says. For the rest, they only have to sell one to each unsuspecting victim and they have covered costs and moved on..........
Reputable brand names have a little more of a vested interest in keeping fideltiy with products
Just my two cents worth........
frats,
Rosco
I don't know if you would consider this, but my suggestion on any "new" product is not to go full monty.
I would suggest testing in a place which can either be easily replaced or repaired. I wished I had done that when plastering all that body deadener on.
The result being it has taken me ten years to finally get back to the metal and repair the damage..............
I now often make sacrificial "test" pieces for extreme exposure.
After a few months, remove the wonder product and compare pix taken before and after............ just something to consider.
As Parisenne 62 mentioned with his new wonder rust remover - if the labels guaranteed to do what they stated, there would be a brand name only and a chemical warning. Also very very "lateral" when you read product information - we have to remember very often a "trained words-smith and solicitor" are consulted to "review" products.............. sorry to be a doubting Thomas - no offence to Thomas's on the site, but this little black duck ain't fallin' for it again - not with the beak still on the back of my neck!
Please keep us informed on your findings - every now and again, one actually does what it says. For the rest, they only have to sell one to each unsuspecting victim and they have covered costs and moved on..........
Reputable brand names have a little more of a vested interest in keeping fideltiy with products
Just my two cents worth........
frats,
Rosco
chassis
thats a cool rolling chassis space ace and i like the intended humour!!! what is it frenchy or italyarno??????????????
when they start building them like that again i will buy a new car of them
-
Stuart Bowyer
- Posts: 197
- Joined: Sat May 21, 2005 7:29 pm
- State: NOT ENTERED
Ive always used a kill rust product.
Internally, i use a wire brush to clean out the surface rust and junk. Then pour in some rust converter very wet, and let that dry.
A day later i will apply kill rust to the inner floors, and thin down to spray into the hard to get sections.
With the bottoms of the floors, i will do the same. I found that kill rust, thinned down with acrylic thinners 50/50 sprays nicley out of a 2.5 tip. Try to get the car as high as possible, other wise you will get hight too (not that you wont mind after hours of car fustration). Once dry, spray again.
Personally, i like the matt finsh it creates once thinned and dry. My fb has been like this four five years, and you can see the floor pan, with nothing to hide.
If you need to tar it( for those unsightly rust repairs), use a gun, dont brush it, and only apply lighty as heavy tar will lead to excess moisture between the surfaces.
Internally, i use a wire brush to clean out the surface rust and junk. Then pour in some rust converter very wet, and let that dry.
A day later i will apply kill rust to the inner floors, and thin down to spray into the hard to get sections.
With the bottoms of the floors, i will do the same. I found that kill rust, thinned down with acrylic thinners 50/50 sprays nicley out of a 2.5 tip. Try to get the car as high as possible, other wise you will get hight too (not that you wont mind after hours of car fustration). Once dry, spray again.
Personally, i like the matt finsh it creates once thinned and dry. My fb has been like this four five years, and you can see the floor pan, with nothing to hide.
If you need to tar it( for those unsightly rust repairs), use a gun, dont brush it, and only apply lighty as heavy tar will lead to excess moisture between the surfaces.
master of nothing, leader of nobody.