Teach me about FB EK drums brakes

[parisian62]

Hi everyone

I've assembled the rear brakes, handbrake and rear cable. Am just waiting on new brake lines to be made up.

Am I able to do some final ajustment now of the rear drums and handbrake so the handrbake works or do I have to wait for the lines and brake fluid?

Stewart

[Craig Allardyce]

Yes you can Stewart,

you can do a full adjustment all round including the handbrake at the drum and then the cable.

[parisian62]

Thanks Craig. I've never adjusted brakes before. Any tips in laymans terms?

[parisian62]

Any advice or info from anyone on adjusting rear drum brakes and the handbrake - I'm hoping to have a go at this tomorrow...

Many thanks.

[Craig Allardyce]

Ok Stewart,

First my disclamer:
Please if your unsure at how to do this get some help from a brake place or mechanic. Hopefully you've got a workshop manual to help out.

Firstly make sure your handbrake is backed right off at that handle (fully released), at the cable adjustment under drivers floor, and at the eccentric nut on each rear brake shoe on the rear wheels (wheel and drum off to access this adjuster).

With drums and wheels on, go around and do your adjustments at each wheel cylinder ensuring you have the slightest of rubbing of both shoes to each drum. This must be done so there is even clearance of both shoes to the drum, otherwise you may end up with the brakes pulling slightly on first application. Spin the wheel by hand whilst its jacked up so you can get an idea of shoe contact and to make sure they're not too tight. Adjust the adjuster back till no contact then adjust up till the shoe just makes contact with the drum. Do this for both leading and trailing shoes on each drum.

Once the wheel cylinders are adjusted you can do the handbrake.

Start from the rear and work your way up to the front.
Adjust the eccentric nut at each rear brake shoe (you have to remove the wheel and drum to do this for access to adjuster). Do the adjustment so you just take up the clearance of the handbrake rod to the front shoe. Dont over do this as you will force the shoe off the wheel cylinder cap.
Now do the other side in the same way. From memory the book says the adjuster should be at around the 45 degree mark.
Put drums and wheels back on and adjust up the cable below the drivers floor to remove all the slack, but not have it too tight as it will start to pull on the cable and apply the rear brakes. Check by spinning the wheels again.
Check that you have a reasonable number of clicks on the handbrake about 3-5 is ok.
Finally you may want to check the pedal freeplay at the master cylinder.
Adjustment is done by the rod the works off the pedal and pushes on the piston of the master cylinder. I usually adjust it so its got minimal clearance. Too little may cause dragging brakes. Too much and the pedal will be low.

[parisian62]

Hi Craig

Thanks for taking the time out to wrote that up. Yep I have a well used workshop manual and I'll also get a mate over to lend a hand

regards
Stewart

[notnad kram]

Thanks guys im doing my first brake change as soon as i find some pads. This will come in handy, cheers Markl.

[samprinci]

Hi Craig

Thanks for taking the time out to wrote that up. Yep I have a well used workshop manual and I'll also get a mate over to lend a hand

regards
Stewart

hey Stewart,
how did u go? did u take any pix? maybe if u upload some pix I can use in the newsletter??
thanks mate.
Sam

[parisian62]

Sorry Sam no pics.

Stewart

[samprinci]

no probs.