I put a new set of points in the EK last night and a new coil. (took the dissie out to clean at the same time) put it back together and she wouldnt fire.
Took the cap off and nothing at the points. Put old coil back on still nothing at the points. Put old points back in and it ran fine. (When I say OLD points I mean done about 20 minutes work)
So I shut the roller door and went inside. I'll try the new coil again tonight. If she fires I'll try the other new set of points to see if they are a dud set.
Anyone had a dud set of points before??
New points, new coil, no go.
New points, new coil, no go.
Not all chemicals are bad. Without chemicals such as hydrogen and
oxygen, for example, there would be no way to make water, a vital
ingredient in beer
oxygen, for example, there would be no way to make water, a vital
ingredient in beer
Re: New points, new coil, no go.
I'm racking my brain trying to think of what could possibly go wrong with something as simple as a set of pointsJohn wrote:Anyone had a dud set of points before??
Are they the earlier two-piece type that you mate-up on the distributor's pivot post, or the later type that are a single unit?
Alan
Member No.1 of the FB EK Holden Car Club of WA (Woo-hoo sweet!)
Member No.1 of the FB EK Holden Car Club of WA (Woo-hoo
sweet!)Re: New points, new coil, no go.
Two piece points.
Just seems weird. I must of missed something simple....
Just seems weird. I must of missed something simple....
Not all chemicals are bad. Without chemicals such as hydrogen and
oxygen, for example, there would be no way to make water, a vital
ingredient in beer
oxygen, for example, there would be no way to make water, a vital
ingredient in beer
Re: New points, new coil, no go.
do you have a multimeter to test the points with on the bench ?
would the surface of the points have some sort of protective coating that needs to be removed before installing ?
would the surface of the points have some sort of protective coating that needs to be removed before installing ?
Re: New points, new coil, no go.
Did some research...apparently some of them do have a protective coating. Never heard of it before you mentioned it.RobinGi wrote:do you have a multimeter to test the points with on the bench ?
would the surface of the points have some sort of protective coating that needs to be removed before installing ?
Alan
Member No.1 of the FB EK Holden Car Club of WA (Woo-hoo sweet!)
Member No.1 of the FB EK Holden Car Club of WA (Woo-hoo
sweet!)
Re: New points, new coil, no go.
Yup sure do, an auto elec mate of mine said never use feeler gauges on points. Use the cardboard box they come in...MeFB wrote:Did some research...apparently some of them do have a protective coating. Never heard of it before you mentioned it.RobinGi wrote:do you have a multimeter to test the points with on the bench ?
would the surface of the points have some sort of protective coating that needs to be removed before installing ?
Have ou checked the wires from the coil to the points, could be a break somewhere.
Speed and Style........... One day I'll get the speed bit.
Re: New points, new coil, no go.
I've heard that with these cars it's common for the condensor to shit itself when the points are changed. Might be worth looking at
Re: New points, new coil, no go.
It ran fine once I put the old points back in so can't be the condenser. Must of just been dodgy points.
Not all chemicals are bad. Without chemicals such as hydrogen and
oxygen, for example, there would be no way to make water, a vital
ingredient in beer
oxygen, for example, there would be no way to make water, a vital
ingredient in beer
Re: New points, new coil, no go.
Hi John - sorry for the delay to this, been "missing" again for a while..
You have established that it is either the new set of points or something peculiar with the connections using them.
I would be interested to learn what brand the new points are. I am leaning towards a mis-match between them and the condensor... perhaps, as suggested they are best replaced as a set if they differ from the original.
The condensor simply absorbs the "rush" of electricity from the primary circuit when the points open and break the circuit - when they close again, this storage is disipated back through them and the process repeats. The breaking of the primary is what triggers the higher secondary to discharge the coil through the spark plugs.
I am struggling to understand why replacing the points would upset the current to/from the condensor..
My guess would be that there is some difference in connections or construction between the new and old points.
I would further suggest that it is important to clean the faces - acetone is one of the best cleaners for this, but be very careful - it is extremely potent and won't blink at removing paint.
It doesn't take much to render contact breaker points inoperative if even the slightest bit of dirt/dust/moisture/oil gets between the faces.
It is only the 12v primary circuit which passes through them, and for the circuit to function to/fro through them at up to 12,000 cycles per minute (@4,000 rpm's) - I believe you can appreciate they are pretty much pivotal (excuse pun) on how critical these simple little set of faces are.
frats,
Rosco
You have established that it is either the new set of points or something peculiar with the connections using them.
I would be interested to learn what brand the new points are. I am leaning towards a mis-match between them and the condensor... perhaps, as suggested they are best replaced as a set if they differ from the original.
The condensor simply absorbs the "rush" of electricity from the primary circuit when the points open and break the circuit - when they close again, this storage is disipated back through them and the process repeats. The breaking of the primary is what triggers the higher secondary to discharge the coil through the spark plugs.
I am struggling to understand why replacing the points would upset the current to/from the condensor..
My guess would be that there is some difference in connections or construction between the new and old points.
I would further suggest that it is important to clean the faces - acetone is one of the best cleaners for this, but be very careful - it is extremely potent and won't blink at removing paint.
It doesn't take much to render contact breaker points inoperative if even the slightest bit of dirt/dust/moisture/oil gets between the faces.
It is only the 12v primary circuit which passes through them, and for the circuit to function to/fro through them at up to 12,000 cycles per minute (@4,000 rpm's) - I believe you can appreciate they are pretty much pivotal (excuse pun) on how critical these simple little set of faces are.
frats,
Rosco
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WesternWagon
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Re: New points, new coil, no go.
Hi John
I had a similar event some years ago, turned out the new points did not have the Bakelite insulator that rubs on the dizzy cam to open / close the points?
Could be worth a look
Gazza
I had a similar event some years ago, turned out the new points did not have the Bakelite insulator that rubs on the dizzy cam to open / close the points?
Could be worth a look
Gazza
Member : Holden Car Club WA.
:ASRF Member
: Secretary FB/EK holden Club of WA.
:ASRF Member
: Secretary FB/EK holden Club of WA.
Re: New points, new coil, no go.
Yes, Gazza - that would effectively make a permanent 12v connection through the primary circuit - charging the secondary in the coil, but not allowing it to discharge through the spark plug when the points open and break connection of the primary to earth..
frats,
Rosco
frats,
Rosco