Radiators to suit a v8 in an EK?

[neatride]

Hi, thanks to everyone posting up their builds its inspiration to get back out into the shed. Recently I was quaoted $660 for a radiator for my EK( I am in the process of fitting a 307 5 litre chev engine) and decided to look at a cheaper option in the ebay range at half the price, something like this one http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... TQ:AU:1123 I contacted the seller and he couldn't tell me if it would cool a 5 litre V8, the orall size would be perfect with minimal fuss, has anyone bought one of or similar to this? and anyone had any drams with them? Anyone had any problems with the quality or material when welding to relocate hose or filler fittings? I understand buy cheap and buy twice so am researching first, thanks, Nick.

[fingers]

Be cautious with the quality Nick ...........this is a Chinese manufacturer from Shanghai ............I,m not saying they are dodgy but they are going to a bit of trouble to make it look like they are an Aussie made and delivered product ....Fingers

[Devilrod]

Give the guys at Berwick radiators a call. They did a three core HK radiator (v 8 ) for around $300 a couple of years ago. Works great. Dont have they're number but they at in Enterprise Ave Berwick.

[Trev]

Bluehaze has just looked into the cooling properties of alloy verses copper and they don't come close to the efficency to cool as the copper coard radiators.
He got quoted $380 for a HR 3 coar at the same place as DR went to at berwick ( I got mine there too).
I would go for the HG V8 style radiator with the 3 coar unless the motor is worked it should do the job.

[neatride]

Thanks fella, is a HG radiator the same as a WB or HQ?

[Harv]

Nick,

Another option is VL Commodore. Same core dimensions as the VK 308 factory auto radiator (should cool the Chev fine), and outlet/inlet is on the correct side for SBC. Needs the factory FB/EK shroud panel trimmed, and the radiator support bar notched but otherwise fits nicely. Vls are still fairly common in the smash-em-and-fix-em department, so costs are reasonable.

Cheers,
Harv.

[bumper]

3 core a original radiator, dads Fb has a 253 in it with no over heating issues!

[neatride]

I have what I think is a WB copper radiator with the outlets in the right place but at 700 wide its too big hiegt is ok, so its in the back of the ute for when I get a chance to get to the radiator shop, Bumper, when I met you and your dad outside the chemist in Warragul and saw how well that 253 sits in the fb engine bay and rang hoppers the next wek as my brake booster set up will be like yours cause it works, my 307 will have a bigger cam, carb and exhaust and am pricing up an under bonnet BM Blower so cooling will be a big issue, Harv, I checked through a few ebay listings of commo radiators and think a vn core with my WB tanks may work but I'll ask the radiator guys and if they have a vk one so I can compare against the front radiator subframe cut I got off fingers. The pics I found of VK ones seem to have top right and bottom left, thanks for the replys, I will fill you in on my progress as I go. I prefer copper and am sceptical of the cheap alloy ones but it may be possible a holden 6 alloy 3 core ebay job may do or just keep saving for that mythical $660 one, cheers, Nick

[Devilrod]

Nick when you say it's too wide you realize anything other than a standard Fb EK radiator is going to require cutting. My HK radiator required pruning either side to fit and it's a v 8 core. I seriously think you'll get what you need for under $500 and it will be locally made which helps if there is any issues....

[neatride]

No, doubt I need to cut, I bought my car off a good mate and it has been cut for a HQ 6 cyl radiator( car has always been a project since 1989) my goal is to get a mix of local radiator parts that will sufficiently cool a warm 307 without having to cut through the front wheel arches and not too tall so I can move it forwards onto the outrigger supprt similar to garys black EK (V8EK4US), cheers If this isnt a WB radiator can someone tell me what it is please.

[neatride]

Harv is this the VK radiator? Have the outlets been moved to the drivers side?

[Harv]

G'day Nick,

Nope, that's a VL Conformadore V6 auto radiator, as per my earlier post. No need to move the inlet/outlet for SBC. It's got the exact same core size as my 308/traumatic VK Calais had, so should cool the 327 OK. From memory, it has bottom locating pins that sit on the front subfame rail, and side pins that I made some brackets to bolt to the radiator support bar (blue/green in the photo... ex-bedframe angle iron ). I used the auto radiator as I'm running a TH350, so ran cooler lines in Swageloked stainless instrument tube. Recovery cap and white plastic bottle behind the drivers headlight. Twin Davies-Craig thermos (DCSL10 10" units) which are small enough to sneak in under the existing bonnet catch (took some measuring and thinking) and have the same capacity as the larger Davies-Craig units. I could not get the larger Davies-Craig units in without notching the catch... this was before aftermarket fans became as plentiful as they now are. I like the way that they sit down in front of the grille to give good clear airflow (the bigger units partially sit behind the bonnet nose). Davies-Craig thermoswitch (0404) driving the fans. Top radiator hose is a VS Commodore/Toyota Lexcen 3.8L V6 top hose. Bottom radiator hose is &*#@ Econovan 1984-1991/Mazda E2200 2.2L diesel top hose.

These pictures show it a bit better:






Cheers,
Harv.

[neatride]

Thanks for posting the pics and info Harv Do you think there is enough room on yours to move the radiator forward another 25mm? I was thinkig about putting my fans behind, does it matter much when the car is stationary? I understand above 45km/h there may be enough air movement. I called into a radiator shop in fountain lakes and got an old vpv8 5 litre radiator to help with setup, $545 for a 4core set up for chev hoses, was told like you said VL to VS core pretty much same so VL to VS radiator it is for me, mostly for reliability and off the shelf replacement, thanks agin Harv, DR and trev, I went to berwick radiators nice and helpfull but have chosen fountain lakes.
So dummy up time it is. Fits snug without cutting into fender sides.

[Trev]

Nice fit
I have used Fountain lakes radiator place too, good bloke.

[Harv]

G'day Nick,

I'm not so sure I could squeeze my radiator forward another inch. The radiator support bar would need to be made from scratch, and the bonnet nose will probably start to get close to the radiator top.

You're right, the fans are really only there for low speed operation. At road speed, the incoming air flow is much higher than the fans - use a thermoswitch to turn them off so they don't run all the time.

Doesn't matter if the thermos are mounted before, or after the radiator. Thermos in front of the radiator have a harder life because of the bugs and road grime. Thermos behind the radiator have a harder life because they run hotter (they are sucking hot, less dense air out of the radiator). Either way, be careful that you wire them up correctly so that they either push or pull air. Some idiot (who shall remain nameless ) spent an hour thinking about the wiring, carefully wired the thermos up in his EK wagon, then wondered why it boiled during his test drive .

Cheers,
Harv.