fbekholden.com

I use 80W-90 in gearboxes and diffs. The capacity is a litre, give or take. The correct level is within a quarter-inch of running out the filler plug hole.

Rob

. . . and I'm too late. By about two hours.

Rob

Didn't Reg Mombassa do a T-shirt design to that effect -
the amphibious EK Holden, catching a wave?

Rob

Again my reply vanishes into the ether . . .

one more thing - I notice that your bellhousing has red overspray inside where the starter motor goes. Red, not grey. Could you possibly have an early EH 149 bellhousing? ETA: Belay that. In the photo with the new slave cylinder, it's definitely an EJ ...

Well done spotting the assist spring the wrong way around.

Dr Terry: . . . stand corrected. I'm basing my experience on the one 149 EH I had, which was engine number H3529.* Now that you mention it, a friend had an Aug '64 149, and I noticed nothing out of the ordinary with its gearbox, so it must ...

The slave cylinder with the offset bolt holes is for 179 EH, all HD, HR, and HK with crashbox.
EJ and 149 EH takes your style of slave cylinder with the symmetric flange.
Internally they take the same components; but the bellhpousing was redesigned for the 179, necessitating the change to the slave ...

The top sump will be from an EJ. It should have an "O" stamped into the middle step.
Early sumps have a 7/8"AF sump plug and lack the internal baffle.
My 1957 master parts catalog has two part numbers: one for FX/FJ (7401015) and one for FE (7409864). Presumably the FE sump was carried through to EK ...

Bloody hell. Again it happens. Reply vanishes on pressing "submit".

Notepad.
Shift-insert.

Images are good.

Your assist spring is, in fact, seated correctly in the clutch fork. All the parts are operating correctly. And yes, the assist spring coils are supposed to swing over a wide arc as the ...

Once again my reply vanishes into the ether on pressing "Submit".

Say rude words.
Restart computer.
Open Notepad and compose reply.

Short version of reply:

If your clutch lever assist spring pops out of the clutch fork when you go to actuate the clutch, I'm willing to guess that the "mouse-trap ...

Ken,

Third attempt at reply. Attempt One vanished into the aether when I pressed "submit". Attempt Two also vanished into the primordial chaos on pressing "submit".

Restart computer.
Log into forum.
Salvum me fac, Domine . . .

Yes, it matters which way around the pedestals go. Figure 6A-20 of the ...

Ed,

On the subject of oil pumps, you could take a look at some posts I made on FE-FC a few years ago:

https://forum.fefcholden.club/index.php/topic,28110.0.html

Executive Summary: There are at least three versions of the grey motor oil pump, all interchangeable as complete assemblies.
Pump gears ...

Steve,

Where's your sense of adventure?

I can tell you what happens when things go wrong. I had an X2. It had the ammeter. The ammeter terminals (uninsulated at that) were perilously close to the rod from the wiper motor to the RH wiper crank. It was night, and hurling down with rain. I turned the ...

. . . and make absolutely sure that you have no sticking valves. While you're at it, check that your pushrods are perfectly straight and also that your cam followers do not have chunks taken out of the skirts. Bent pushrods and damaged cam followers are the tell-tale indication of stuck valves. This ...

You can only replace the short/long bolt rocker gear with the long/long bolt rocker gear as whole assemblies. The shafts are different, the pedestals are different, the method of location of the shafts in the pedestals is different. Don't try to put the later pedestals on the early shafts, for ...

There are a couple of ways -

Hammer and brass drift, holding the pedestal in a vice, is the method I've used previously. But the drift has to be almost the same diameter as the shaft. If the shafts are sludged up, they can be quite difficult to remove. Or use a press, with a socket of the right ...