fbekholden.com

Appologies for not taking more pics

1/ Lay the lining on the floor upside down (blanket under to stop marks or damage) and mark the centre (side to side) on the bow that is fixed to the centre roof support (the one with 2 small wires each side).
2/ Hang the lining and insert the "bows".
3/ Gather the lining like a "consetiner" and postion the centre mark on the centre roof support.
4/ Line up the centre of the lining with the roof centre line and hang the lining from the tags on the bar (this is the bar that the interior light fixes to on Sedan)., then pean over the tags on the centre support.

These are the "tags":



5/ locate the "bows" in their relevant holes.
6/ check that all is centred/lined up.
7/ spray upholstery adhesive on the edge of the rear window area and the same area on the lining, wait until it does not stick to you finger and then secure the lining, start from the centre and work your way out, keep reasonable tension on the material to remove "wrinkles".
TIP!!! ... only secure the lining on the edge so it can be easily pulled back to retention if you need to remove wrinkles.
8/ repeat the above for the front windscreen area, apply enough tension to remove "fore & aft" wrinkles.
9/ Do the same for each side, start from the centre and work your way out to each end (keep an eye on the material as you go so you don't have a big crease at the end!), keep reasonable tension to the side on the material to remove "wrinkles". .... remember that slowly wins the race when it comes to fitting hood linings!
10/ Once it is fitted and you are happy with the finish (no wrinkles) then proceed to fully secure the lining by folding it over edges and ensuring that it is "moulded" to the shape of the steel so your window rubbers fit correctly.
11/ After the contact glue has set for a while (a few hours) trim off the excess material and fit the internal trims and light.
TIP No 2: only roll the lining over the "opposite side" (outside) of the front and rear screens about 3-4mm, also screw the "visor screws" into postion so they are easy to locate and cut (small cut on each screw), much easier than looking for the screw hole!!

3-4mm overlap:



I used a "screendoor flywire roller" to set the lining into place were the window rubber fits in:





Finished Lining:




Clean off excess glue with petrol or turps on a rag.

Hope it helps.....................

Good stuff. I'll be doing mine soon.

Did you take any pictures to help with the story ?

Thanks for the tips, I'll have a go and see how it turns out.

Good tips! I like to fit up the lining with bulldog clips first and have it fitted as it would be when finished, that way you don't have mess around when your glue is going off. Then I glue a section at a time

What did you use to replace the original insulation material on the roof ?
Is it easy to source ?
Will it do a similar job to the original stuff ?

Mine is dropping in several places, and is quite heavy..

I used DynaMat which has it's own self adhesive back, it a bit more expensive than some, but it is one of the best you can get. It is easy to use and it sticks like sh*t to a blanket!!

How do you know what order the bows go in, because their not all exactly the same or will they just bend into place?
And no i didnt mark them as i took them out

Matthew4655 wrote:How do you know what order the bows go in, because their not all exactly the same or will they just bend into place?
And no i didnt mark them as i took them out

I would be fitting them back in the car without the lining to get them in the rite order then mark them. There is a rite order.

Trev wrote:

Matthew4655 wrote:How do you know what order the bows go in, because their not all exactly the same or will they just bend into place?
And no i didnt mark them as i took them out

I would be fitting them back in the car without the lining to get them in the rite order then mark them. There is a rite order.

What Trev said, I removed mine and kept them in order the first time as I was pre warned. It won't take long to get them sorted though using Trev's method.

awesome thanks guys
will do

I noticed in the workshop manual that the correct order from Front to back is, Green, Blue, Plain, Yellow, Red, Brown.
Which is fine if they still have the colour on them?

Longest bows from the front going down to shortest at the rear.
Two single half length bows are for the section at the interior light.

Have started fitting mine and found a few new things.
And wagons are a little different.

The tags that bend over on the centre line (wagons actually have 2) and it appears that doing the rear one first will make it easier to get at the tags.
Hint: in addition to all the other comments, make sure you stretch the lining from side to side enough to have the required lining coverage.
Otherwise once you bent the tags over you can't stretch the lining.

I'll throw up a few more photos when I'm finished.



Also what is the preferred method for attaching the lining to this sections.
The wagon has it at the rear, and sedans and wagons both have it at the sides.

Need some help please guys before I make a terrible mess. I know its a simple question, but it is doing my head in

Grace's ute (and the wagon) have had the ceiling deoxidised, and painted with two coats of epoxy. They both now have a layer of Dynamat. I've got the hood lining bows in (both have new hoodlinings), and hung the lining off the spiky tabs, then peened them over. Lots of bulldog clips to hand, and can see how the linings run out to the edge of the body. Got the screws in place for the visors etc.

The question is, once I have them bulldog clipped in place and relatively wrinkle free, how do I go about glueing them?

I understand spray contact glue is the go (got some Kwik Grip), but not sure how to avoid spraying half the car. Suspect mask the body, and put some newspaper under the headlining to stop overspray (?). Alternatively I can use a tin of Gorilla Snot, but every time I use that stuff I make a hell of a mess and it doesn't like spreading. Don't fancy the idea of putting Gorilla Snot in a spray gun.

Do you pull off say 30cm worth of clips at a time to glue, or an entire body opening (eg all the front window)?

Cheers,
Harv

Spreadable contact adhesive or Tarsan’s Grip (gorilla snot?) was recommended by my body guy when I last did this. Worked very well with a bit of care. Following the instructions for contact adhesive, I lightly coated a half inch band above the doors (sedan) and overlapped around the outsides of front and rear openings. Used more on the c pillars where the panic straps went. Ditto application on the back of the lining. All done with the lining bows attached and hanging from the roof. Half an hour to tack dry then press and hold for a few seconds working each way out from b pillar alternating each side. I used a few clothes pegs from memory but really the contact held well once you put two tack dry surfaces together so the pegs were not really doing anything. This was reusing an original lining which I had repaired by hand stitching donor material for the c pillar area. The result was excellent.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk